So I went back and looked at photos people have been posting of their cars and several people have all the braces in like myself. But a lot of the "vets" appear to have them removed on the mid and rear. So definitely going to pull it apart today to remove braces and replace diff fluid.

Oh, and for the Month of May, use the coupon code Tekno10 and get 10% off

Joe, I drove a car box stock, and didn't feel right. Go on tekno's site, and switch to the recommended indoor\outdoor setup. (This will be 775) That is where I started. (actually, I was center dot on A & B blocks too) The rear was a little free, and I went up on rear link position on rear tower. I went to another track, and had a push, so I lowered my front ride height 2mm, and that is where I am still at.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again. Average joe's like you and I, cannot be chasing the pro's setups. Joe & Ryan like their cars on edge and borderline twitchy. That doesn't bode well for us.

And leave teh braces in. Unless your a very clean driver, your asking for trouble. Alot of guys default to that because they don't know chassis setup. And then some guys know chassis setup, and that was a change that worked for them. BTW, yes, center and rear braces are optional on SCT and Buggy. I run all braces on buggy and truggy. don't run rear brace on SCT.

i just want to mention because no one else did and this is the biggest factor. are you using the correct tire and compound for your track? i assume you are but i just wanted to make sure before you start changing things.

Yup, Tire choice is 80% of the setup.

Yeah correct tires. That is the first priority.

Rebuilt diffs using 7/7/5. Moved the rear wheelbase back to the max for stability.

Changed to shock oil and set the droop to the proper measurement. Do all you guys run the shock boots? I always took them off in my 8e 3.0.

No extra parts left on the table so that's a good sign

Now to see how it feels at the race tomorrow.

I've always kept mine off of any car that had it as an option. I really don't like them unless I have to run in muddy conditions. Which thank god I never have lol

I don't know about you guys but after blowing off the car and dislodging the debris I always spray down all the moving joints/gears with a shot of silicone spray. I've heard not to spray an actual lube on the car so I use silicone spray as a protectant that actually keeps everything loose and moving freely.

I dont use anything on the buggy other then bush off any stuck on dirt blow it off with air and wipe it down with a dry micro fiber cloth. When i tear it down and rebuild what needs to be thats when ill wipe every part down with simple green and then prob use Endust or something like that. Iv found out that wd-40 silicone or not attracts more dust.

I never use wd40 because it will cause things to rust out after use.

Silicone puts a nice protective coating...awesome for jet skis and anything else.

What silicone spray do you use?

I used to work at a local motorcycle/jet ski/atv shop for 20 years so I use the Honda brand but I can't imagine there is much difference between brands.

Don't spray it on electronics of course

Idk for me it attracts more dust then it prevents. Btw is it ok to reuse diff seals or should they be replaced every time you change diff oils?

I have been able to re-use them multiple times w/out issues.

Yeah I don't buy new orings or gaskets unless it breaks.