The further back you run the Ackerman (holes), the less steering angle you get on the outside wheel. After initiating the turn, and the weight shifts to the outside wheel, the less steering angle helps calm the car down under power.

limited stock at tower hobbies and amain, but tower offers more discount and free shipping.

Vwdude. Thanks. Makes perfect sense why I'm driving harder with that ackerman setting.

Any one getting alot of wheel wobble after running it a bit?

Check the bearings. Have seen one lock up a few runs in. If they get dirty enough they might lock and spin in the hub and wollow out the plastic from heat. Bearings might be checking out early if your track has a lot of loose dirt. Rear bearings seem to go first on true dirt tracks. Should be easy to spot the problem by inspecting the hubs that seem to move the most.

If wheels are tweaked thats a different problem. Either way, please share what you find.

In fact i do run on a very loose dirt track. Iv taken them out and wiped them all down all of them spin free but i did notice after doing so some of them are now squeaking running the car. Prob need to take them out again and oil them. The front ones seem to have alot more play in them then the rears but in fact they just all have play. I did notice that the bigger of the 2 bearings seem to be spinning inside of the shaft now instead of the shaft spinning the bearing if that makes sense. I just dont get why the bearings would wear so quickly......

Sometimes you get a batch of bad bearings. One set last a year and the next last one race day. If you see witness marks on the axle where bearing has not been spining properly dont run it again til you replace them. It will melt plastic hubs... more parts to buy..

Contact Tekno, might get some free parts or discount on replacements.

Ah man yea theres pretty bad marks on the axle i guess i need to replace them and prob my hubs also........do i also need to replace the axles.........?

Is this the avid bearing kit for the .4? Also what bearings should i get all metal sealed and what ones can i get in the revolution?Tekno EB48.4 Bearing Kit

I'm going to go out on a limb and say, yes, that is for the 48.4 lol

As for which bearings, I'm kind of a mixed bag on that. I like the metal shielded bearings for the differentials and rubber sealed bearings for the hubs.

I would get this Tekno EB48.4 Bearing Kit and add 6 8x16x5 and 4 5x11x4 of either the NMD or the ceramics if you really want ceramic's, but the NMD's are pretty nice.

Those will give you better bearings for the center driveline. (Diffs and pinions in the diff housings)

Thanks guys ill look into both. Will 45 and 37.5 shock oils from Associated come close to the factory Tekno oils?

I prefer and have switched over to PTRC oils. I get them here PT Racing Oil And don't forget to use the coupons to save money.

Once I started using the PTRC oils, it's just easier to make adjustments.

AE 45 = 550cst
AE 37.5 = 475CST

I've attached a handy chart for your reference.

I would use the axles. I don't think they are going to be bad enough to throw out. Slide a new bearing on and check play with bearing in the worn area. Tekno driveshafts, outdrives and axles are tougher than most. I bet new hubs and bearings will tighten things back up nicely. Might install a little grease on the worn part of the axle to reduce gaulling the axle next time a bearing is not spining good. I do this on all my bearings that have a metal axle or diff pnion where metal to metal contact exist. Very light swip of grease helps prevent future problems.

FYI and IMO, most modern buggies have great plastic hubs and you don't need the aluminum hubs that were so popular a few years ago. The aluminum hubs can start to weld themselves to bearings that spin and then bearing to the axle when they lock up, that is if you run an aluminum hub.

Check your wheel bearings more often and clean or replace as needed. Use quality rplacements. The best sealed bearing I have seen are the green seal Boca bearings. They are worth $40 a set and they last. However, they have one sizes that was not available in green seal. I don't remember which one. Others brands are good, but most have non contact seals that we really don't need on the axle IMO.

Hope that info was helpful.

Ok getting a little frustrated with my new 48.4. Only driven it a few times and honestly it's all over the place. I'm certain it's a setup issue and we have our first race with it this weekend.

Current setup is stock. Track is hot florida, hard pack red clay with dust on top. Went out about an hour ago to practice and the car is spinning out every corner. On the straight it wants to fishtail as well. It's like I have no traction in the loose stuff.

I think I need to start in the diffs. It jumps and lands just fine (unless it starts to fishtail up the jump). But it just doesn't want to have any traction in the corners.

Instead of 10/10/7...does anyone run similar track conditions? I am going to tear it down tomorrow. It ends up on it's roof more often than not and I'm getting frustrated with my new toy. My son kicks ass with the 22-4 but we just can't tame the 48.4.