Its the 30 mm fan. R1033 OR R1031. depending on if you want to plug into reciever, or solder direct to esc. For mounting you can use a long screw and some spacers. And mount it to steering post. Or make something custom.

What are you guys doing for Mini Cooper bodies these days?

For years, I had wanted to get an M-chassis and Mini body, but I ended up buying a M.Rage. Now I see it's almost impossible to find a Mini body for a reasonable, or even an unreasonable price. Colt has one available but I can only find it in Australia.

my personal fav' are the "WTF" fans.

Does anyone have the instructions for the M03 Sway bar set? Rebuilding my M03 for the fun of it and can't find mine.

Agree

the trumpet windy fan is designed specifically with RC in mind versus other fans are just are for computers etc

Wild Turbo Fan, RC Car Fan, RC Cooling Fan, Heat sink fan, RC car accessories, RC car, RC

Try the Yokomo fans from Banzai . They are the same fans as WTF (confirmed) with a different sticker. They're generally a few bucks less and Banzai Hobby shipping is super cheap.

They've got the other, more normal WTF/Yokomo fans too.

RP-033 Racing Performer HYPER Cooling Fan 30mm [Yokomo RP-033] - ¥1,343 : Banzai Hobby, Japanese Online Hobby Shop

thanks MonkeyRacing ...good to know.

I can say the worst fans I used were the 3Racing, Yeah, and Integy ...all were crap. Not worth the extra weight on my car and provided barely a whisper of air.

Looks like Hobby King have either copied or brought Tamiya's Cooper molds. They have the Rover Mini and BMW Mini shells for sale:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/catalogs...sult/?q=cooper

In regards to the Mini racing class in Australia, everyone is using the Blitz VW Golf GTi shell.

Appreciate the link Burlap. I didn't even think to look on HobbyKing.

The Hobbyking Mini shells (they also do a Swift) are made by Matrixline in China.
They've been around for years and are excellent quality. They do HEAPS of different shells.

Matrixline RC Model - My Speed, My Matrixine!

Just pay careful attention to the shipping options. I clicked the wrong one on my order from multiple warehouses. It was a small disaster to get it straightened out.

+1 for the Hobbyking Mini.

I've been running one and it looks great, you can cut the body kit off to make it look more like a standard Mini (see attached).

If you keep your eyes peeled, Phat Bodies will have a Mini bodyshell available in the next 6 months for the M03/M05

O.G...

We had the state titles over the weekend in Victoria, Australia. I took my recently built M05 (R spec) out for a run, and it felt stable and easy to drive during the qualifiers. I was losing a lot of time in the corners though, I think it was diffing out a little bit and generally didn't have any forward traction. The loctite TA03 ball diff I had in it felt like it had loosened a bit over the first couple of runs - it wasn't slipping, just felt like a stock gear diff with a small bit of AW grease, no extra washers. I tried removing one of the smaller washers and tightened it a bit. After that, the car was near undriveable, it would randomly dart either left or right while trying to accelerate in a straight line. I'm surprised I didn't break anything with the number of high speed crashes into the curbs and walls. I put the washer back in and it felt stable again, tracked perfectly straight, but I still had no pace coming out of the corners.

For the finals I put in an oil gear diff with 100k oil, and the random darting issue returned. As it was a demo class and there were time restraints, our finals were cut short so I didn't have time to experiment with other changes.

I'm running on asphalt with Team Powers 36 tires all round (gooped rears only). Using the stock yellow damper fluid (no idea what rating it is). I've got the upright front shock tower, middle hole. Medium wheelbase. Pretty much everything else is stock R spec manual setup. Using the standard Hobbywing 13T combo. I've got about 140g of lead to bring it a touch over the legal weight of 1330g, distribution is roughly 55:45 F:R

Here's what I've double checked:

- No binding
- Equal corner weight distribution/shock preload
- No damaged/bent parts
- Servo saver looks in good shape
- Yes, servo horn is 90 degrees to the rod, not the servo

Here's what I haven't tried yet:

- Adding more front toe out. It has a little bit, I used the manual settings for the link length.
- The car doesn't have many runs on it. I've read from the early reports that the car needs more runs to break in. Perhaps I just need to run it more?
- Some of the guys at the track suggested I try to get rid of some of the slop in the steering. I've read through this thread and removing slop is actually not recommended here.
- Upgrading servo. Using a weak Futaba S3003.
- Upgrading the steering rack. Still using the stock plastic one, and it seems to flex a fair bit.
- Haven't confirmed whether the lack of punch in corners actually is diffing out, or if it's just tons of wheelspin. My M03 doesn't wheelspin anywhere near that much and it's using a stock gear diff (AW grease with 1 added washer).


Does anyone have any additional thoughts to add on what I can try next?

Blitz from rcmart. Get a couple for some friends and it's not so bad.