Hi

Does anybody have any idea on how to mount the rear carbon damper stay on M05 for long wheelbase? Somehow lose the manual for the carbon damper stay.

Thanks in advance!

The quality looks nice. What would the difference between a spool to diff is it a simple locker? And how does a spool affect in turns verus a diff. Im sure I asked this question in past

Spool = fully locked diff (no diff action). So yes, spool is the same as saying locked diff. It would widen turning radius (make the M05 chassis understeer more) as it splits the torque 50/50 all the time to both front wheels. Would cause a little more scrubbing of the tires during cornering as well, which may (or may not) have a minor effect on life of the tires. But it all comes down to setup of everything else in its entirety as well...

I wonder if that diff is made in the same factory as the 3racing one - the plastic and general forming of the parts look identical (but I'm also comparing the pic to the 3racing one's I have on hand). If it is, I wonder why they opted for a plastic spider gear cross as opposed to the split steel one... (not that it truly matters).

Actually the open diff is equal torque to both wheels. A locked diff or spool is equal speed to both wheels.

Thanks for the explanation guys.

I think my love of the M04 is finally over. It seems they don't like brushless based torque. I've blown through at least 3 diffs in 6 months, even with limited track time and careful builds. Last night, I mysteriously melted the guts of the gearbox. The bosses the gear shafts are set into got warm and went all bell shaped. Bearings were good. Can't figure it out. Had enough.

The M05 was friggin outstanding though, so it's the go to for now. With the new, black carpet, setup has been simplified. Stock camber, yellow springs and 40wt all around.

https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=54475

Look down and click on manual.
i hope that helps.

Greetings fritz

Hi Jim,
that sounds indeed strange with your M04! Haven´t used mine since I got my M06 some years ago, but drivetrain is quite solid usually. Guess you use the stock gear diff, right?
Do you use AW grease in it? What parts are damaged, outdrive axles? Axle seats in the housing should not wear out due to heat usually. Bearings are really o.k.? What brushless do you use, guess no 10t?
Is the motor isolated by the cartdrige sheet from the plastic?

Lot of questions, but I would not expect a failure in the stock gear diff of a Mini from my experience over the years.
I know you don´t like the M06, so lets sort your problem on the M04 out to keep you spinning the rear wheels, too!

Br,
Matthias

Heya. Yeah, stock diff. I've built so many of these and have seen so few failures in my FWD cars. We did see an increase in failures a few years ago when the M06 became popular, but not nearly what I've experienced n the past year with the M04.

Diffs are built carefully - well beyond instruction manual levels. I've even gone so far as to deburr all the internals and break in the gears manually, followed by cleaning and inspection afterwards. AW grease is always used.

The motors are 18t versions of the "Hobbywing style" cans. They spin around 2200kv and have a little more torque than the 13t. When my race finished o Friday, I picked up my car and the motor was HOT. I don't think the gasket would have made a difference in this case.

The only conclusions I can come to are that the extra wheelspin created by a very loose diff in a RWD car is creating extra heat/wear internally. As to my breakdown on Friday, I'll go through the bearings again very carefully and look for signs of heating on the gear shafts.

Thanks, Jim

Any suggestions on which rear upright (as far as rear toe-in) to run on a medium bite asphalt track?

Thanks!

I haven't tried it out on asphalt yet, but I have found that the move from 2deg toe to 3deg rear toe has been a big improvement on carpet and I would probably start with 3deg. I achieve it with Tamiya's 1 degree toe-in suspension mount and the kit hubs.

Thanks for that!

1 degree always seems so "skate-y", but I'm sure it's faster under certain conditions.

Rich
Im not familiar with Southern Cali being from NYC and all, but I knew
a guy out that way who was extremely smart and helpful who passed
away not too long ago that told me about a group of guys out there
who run Minis exclusively and they are really helpful to new people
who approach them.
They are called "The Mini Mafia" so if you run across them at any of
the tracks you race at, approach them and they could really get you
set up!

Mike

Thanks for this info Sosidge!
Can you explain a bit more the difference? I thought about reducing the rear toe to get more steering, but I also think, rear toe helps to warm up the rear tires especially on the first 3 laps and get a stable rear end...

Will definitely give your tip a try, as I´ve lying around the plate for some time now, but never tried it so far!

Br,
Matthias

Hi Jim, really interested in some pics of your damages. 18t should really be no problem. Do you drive the diff very loose, although greasing with AW? Should give some stiffer action, at least for some laps. Ever tried a more closed diff in your M04? I made some good experince with tighter diffs in my M06 the last 2 years, although I never thought this could work in an RWD Rc-car.
Could reduce the revolutions of your counter gears and help to extend the life span maybe...
I think, also quality of the metal parts reduced the last years, as one race collegue also shreded this diff in his M06 shortly after finishing the kit.
Back in the days in my M02 I never had a problem even with some hotter brushed motors in racing driving it RWD.

All the best for your analyze of the sucker,
Matthias