That's what I've done thanks

Glad the changes helped. Until we got the ETS carpet last year, high-grip racing didn't really exist in the UK, so making the car safe has been a new experience!

For mid/exit steering I'd look at reducing the rear toe, and maybe lay the front shocks down (go in a hole on the tower).

Added some info to the wikipost re: new graphite suspension components. After some testing at home, receiving feedback from others throughout the US, and chatting with Alex at Snowbirds and over the past few weeks, I think we have some good info on these parts. Here is what I posted in the wikipost at the top of this thread:

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Whoa

I like the concept - I'm afraid about the implementation though

What happens when you change the front dive angle with non-zero lower hinge inserts, for example? do you shim the FR and FF ballstuds?

Thanks! I'll try the changes on Sunday.

Another day and another newbish question.
I spent last evening on the steering setup again and while measuring my full steering lock to see everything if everything is symmetrical I started wondering what wheel is being talked about when people/manuals/the interwebs say, "at 100% steering I can get 23 degrees".
Looking at my setup here this can only be the inner wheel correct? Since due to ackermann the outerwheel at this angle and with 1 degree of toe out is around 17 or 18.

IMO the outer wheel is more important during cornering (weight shifting, centrifugal force etc), so why is the inner wheel being measured?

Or am I completely wrong here and indeed the outer wheel is measured and mine is just wrong?

Once again thanks in advance for answering,
Mike

100% steering is considered to be when the car hits a mechanical stop. For me, I just set my end points so that the servo is just one point past where the tall black shim touches the steering arm in the steering rack. After that, I'll usually dial my dual rate back to 90-95% depending on the track size and layout. Regarding your question about which wheel is being measured, I would assume the inside wheel, as this measurement can change depending on the ackermann setting.

Interestingly, I do just the same except I dial it one point before they make contact (by actually making contact, then dialing 1% down). I am always worried that when this or that part (chassis, c-hubs, whatever) flexes, the servo is in trouble

I've never measured wheel throw at the wheel, really

The others have given you good information, and I do the same as they do to get %100 steering. As for the steering throw, I measure the inside and usually get around 28 degrees when I'm at 100%. I then use the dual rate on my radio to dial back to 25-26 degrees on asphalt, and less on carpet. If you can only get 18 degrees, then something is not correct in your steering geometry.

With full lock I get 23% on the inside, anything more and the servo saver touches the servo arm.
Yes I know, normally the servo saver should be dead straight vertical so the shims on the ackermann plate hit the servo arm when fully locked, but this results in completely different EPAs left and right for me.
I am more the "steering link should be 90 degress to the servo saver" guy and with this setup I have EPAs of 90%L and 100%R.

Thanks for sharing the ways you do your setups and maybe I should just ignore my inner Monk, live with the different EPAs and set it up the way it is mentioned in the manual.

Of course I could also ditch the saver and go with an aluminium horn which would take care of it as well... but given the nice walls around our track and my track record of actually making contact with them once or twice during the season I will probably stick with it for the moment.

Are there any particular parts that break or wear easily on this car? Any upgrades necessary/needed?

A lot of us servo saver to make it clear the swing rack. This will allow you to get a few extra degrees of throw. With the plastic swing arms I get 27* on the inside tire. With alum. I can get up to 30 but never go past 29* per Alex.

I should also mention that I use the lower steering bushing from the c-hub as the shim for my center ballstud on the swing rack. It is much narrower and lets the rack move farther.

I would not recommend an aluminum servo horn unless you are on a track with friendly barriers, like an ETS track, or most asphalt tracks.

The only thing that is questionable from the kit is the composite outdrives. I always run the spring steel outdrives on the spool. Otherwise, the car is very solid. Nothing really wears out too fast. The only other thing that may break on really hard impact is a c-hub or a steering block, but that is not a common issue.

I will also add that after testing he steering block gives a more direct feel with steering input. I think the graphite steering and c hub together work for entry steering-but especially helps with steering through a high speed sweeper as more consistant and responsive.

Robbie , I've been trying to get 29degree throw and the best I can get is 26degree with servo saver . How many bushings are you using ? . I never tried that