1- Hey, look, someone else who realized that this steering link which cannot hit the topdeck still hits it I had the same issue ... solution is twofold : either a TM/Serpent "bended" ballcup, or a slightly shorter servo arm (or one of the "inner" holes in the servo saver if you use it)

2- Check that your servo "neutral" is dead-vertical, that all links are 100.0% symmetric, etc... Still towards the end of the servo rotation, due to the geometrics of it all, 1% extra EPA really isn't much extra throw at the wheel, hence it doesn't take much asymetry in the links to be slightly different L/R. As long as all your linkages are ok and you're ok with the handling, I wouldn't worry about it too much

Since I busted my ballcups by trying to shorten the link, I just ordered the aluminium steering arms and servo horn. Will do a complete rebuild and make sure that I am dead vertical via subtrim. I normally do not use it and try to fix this via the links but I think here it is neccessary.

Since I am already asking questions here is another one regarding the setup sheet. When I take a look at the wheelbase, I see 0 1 1. Does this mean zero shims, one in the front (FF) and one in the back (FR), respectively the other way around for RF and RR? I am asking this since the standard setup in the manual shows a 1mm shim at the front AND back.

Thank you very much in advance,
Mike

"please" and "thank you" go a long way...

I am forgetting my manners. Thank you for the answer regading the steering throw, you spared my quite some time looking for possible solutions. As for the wheelbase question, I modified it...

Mike,

The setup sheets really show which shim goes where, as you can fit 2mm total of shims on the lower hinge pins.

for the F, tick zero if all your shims are at the back of the arm (lwb), 1mm if it's 1mm on each side of the arm, and both 1mm boxes if you have your front arms all the way to the back (swb).

Same for the back, except the lwb/swb comments are reversed as the setup sheet indicates how many shims you put in front of the rear arm

Hope this helps,
Paul

Thank you for the explanation, this clears it up. I was looking at both setup sheets (asphalt, carpet) and different 1mm checkboxes were ticked there. In the end this means the same though since only one 1mm box is ticked in both cases.

Noob time. What pitch is XRAY? What gearing does everyone recommend to start on a 13.5T, 17.5T, and 21.5T? I'm trying to figure out if I have the right gears.

Is the Spur and Motor easy to remove? I'd like to try and get two classes out of the car. I'm done having a car for each class.

The box with the 0, 1, 1 points to the location of the shim as well.

The car comes out of the box with a 84t spur in 48 pitch. If you're running on asphalt, 48p is the safer option as it allows for more clearance in case a rock gets sucked into your drive train, etc. If you're on carpet, most guys run 64p. It's less noisy and allows for finer ratio adjustment.

Gear ratio for spec motors really depends on your track. For 17.5, 4.2FDR is always a safe start, and for 21.5, I believe most guys are running a 3.8 or 3.9FDR. Someone correct me if I'm too low.

Yeah, so it does not really matter which of the two 1's is ticked. It means one shim "here" and the remaining on in the other side. So regarding the wheelbase asphalt and carpet are the same.

Yup! Normally we run with the arms either all the way back or in the middle position. We don't alter the WB length very often, just the position of the wheels.

Hi what's the best way to mount the new mod double arm without straining the arm.I've identified a twisting hub.how to fit without extra load?

Thanks! Your suggestions were spot -on. After using them my friend and I were able to tune the car to be way more drivable!
Now I could use some help getting the car to rotate from the apex to the exit of the corner
Thanks again!

Are you talking about this? https://www.facebook.com/ProlixRC/

It is a bit tricky to get right. You need to mount it all up, set the camber to where you want it, then pop the outer link off the ballstud then let it sit on top of the ball and look at it from the top down to check the alignment. Adjust as necessary to get it to line up directly over top. Then pop it back on and tweak your camber one more time.

Luke