Im running it with 2mm spacers on the inside and outside. Also use the same compound arms front and rear. The USA kits come with Graphite arms but the ars arms in the kit are hard not graphite so if your going to use graphite front arms make sure you use graphite ARS rear arms or hard and hard. This is all on a tighter layout on black carpet in USGT.

thanks for sharing, will try it out.

Anyone ever see a setup for any of the other upper bulkhead clamp ball stud mounting holes? I've only ever seen the one hole used...anyone experiment here w longer/shorter camber links? What would be the effects?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ber-links.html

Yikes, there's a few inaccuracies in there. For example, it states that a lower roll center will reduce roll, which is the opposite of what happens.

When the '15 first came out with the new bulkheads I tried going longer all round, and shorter all round. Both were slower than the standard setup, although I can't really remember how they felt.

I sometimes use a longer front link in the wet for more steering.

Anyone using a monster 21.5 or 17.5 what are you using for gearing?

I would think a longer link would reduce the rate of the camber and thus not give you more steering.

As I've learned through changes, my feeling as a rule of thumb:longer the link the flatter that end of the car will be, and more "stable". Shorter link, more reactive. In general terms.

A longer link also causes the rollcentre to stay lower during roll. This seems to be the dominant factor with the front link, as longer always gives me more steering. Probably because the outer front wheel already has plenty of camber due to the castor effect.

Rear link length is less predictable, tried going longer a couple of times, sometimes it gains grip, sometimes loses grip.

Hmm, I will have to think about that one The roll center will only change if the suspension compresses? right?

It moves up and down in heave motion. Typically a double wishbone with shorter upper link the roll Center lowers during compression. And vice versa

But if the car rolls the roll center moves horizontally also. The already mentioned short upper longer lower link car will shift the roll center towards the right during a left corner. By how far depends on ratio of upper and lower link length and angle. So the camber gain has big influence on horizontal movement of the rollcenter during cornering/roll.

Hi guys,

What would be the main changes you'd do from the stock carpet setup, which has served me well so far, if you were to go run on a technical super hi-grip carpet track, which will be my case next week as I'm discovering a new track I've never run at?

Me thinks (in order): 2.7 springs (I don't have the 2.9's...), 100CPS stiffer oil, all roll-centers inserts 0.5mm higher (for higher RC), possibly more bump-steer on the spindle... and more wattage, yeah!

Thoughts on the center carbon brace?

Thanks

Paul

On high grip we've seen a lot of guys have success with the 2.5-2.8 springs on the front with the 2.6 or 2.7 in the rear. RC we've been keeping around 0, but we're reducing toe to get the car to rotate better. I pretty much always run the carbon center brace, and just shim it up if I want a bit more flex.

Is everyone running diffs high or low and why?