22LikesTekno RC EB48.3 Thread
02-01-2017 | 11:09 AM
#2808
There's only two differences between the .4 front arms and the .3 front arms, the outside uses a hingepin to retain the spindle carrier and the inside has the middle of the arm the removed to free up the suspension.
You can't use the old spindle carriers and the new front arms together since the hole sizes won't work together. The new rear arms also won't work without the new rear hubs since it's a new offset. And if you're going to run the new rear hubs you have to use the new universals. Same thing in the front, the arms, carriers, spindles, and unis all have to be used together.
If you're going to upgrade in stages you'll have to do the entire rear suspension with driveshafts, the entire front with driveshafts, the whole steering assembly, the new gearing, and the new shock parts. I think that's it
.
You can't use the old spindle carriers and the new front arms together since the hole sizes won't work together. The new rear arms also won't work without the new rear hubs since it's a new offset. And if you're going to run the new rear hubs you have to use the new universals. Same thing in the front, the arms, carriers, spindles, and unis all have to be used together.
If you're going to upgrade in stages you'll have to do the entire rear suspension with driveshafts, the entire front with driveshafts, the whole steering assembly, the new gearing, and the new shock parts. I think that's it
.
02-01-2017 | 12:30 PM
#2809
It is. You get quieter smoother universal driveshafts, quieter smoother ring and pinion, then there's shock cap and springs. I'm tired of saying it but steering is far better. Don't know if the wide rear hinge pin brace improves handling, but the screw that secures it now uses 2.5 driver, which eases the mind because the 2.0 screw looks as if it will strip out after going through the gearbox a few times. I see no use for the new spindle carriers. The ball bearings there only add weight and bearings can't be cleaned out from dust. The .3 is easy to clean that area and I bet the bearings don't improve performance on the. 4
Bottom line, there are updates that make the .4 worth getting. If you were to get the .3 and upgrade it to the .4 you'd be spending more money then just getting the. 4. Pay $5 for the super saver club at tower and you get several coupon codes, one if the codes gives you $75 off if you spend at least $499.
I wish I waited for the .4 instead of getting the .3 for $360. Right now .4 is $550+$5 supersaver membership-$75 off and you pay $480. Last month I think there was $90 off.
If you go with the .3 just get the updated ackerman plate, bellcrank steering and two 3x10 button head screws. Should be good enough. Maybe even as good.
Bottom line, there are updates that make the .4 worth getting. If you were to get the .3 and upgrade it to the .4 you'd be spending more money then just getting the. 4. Pay $5 for the super saver club at tower and you get several coupon codes, one if the codes gives you $75 off if you spend at least $499.
I wish I waited for the .4 instead of getting the .3 for $360. Right now .4 is $550+$5 supersaver membership-$75 off and you pay $480. Last month I think there was $90 off.
If you go with the .3 just get the updated ackerman plate, bellcrank steering and two 3x10 button head screws. Should be good enough. Maybe even as good.
Last edited by Derrick87; 02-01-2017 at 12:52 PM.
02-01-2017 | 11:06 PM
#2810
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 328
Nice. Absolute Hobbyz has them for $550, with $55 discount, but they're out of stock too. You can also backorder it at tower and you'll get the first batch when they come in so there's no need to keep checking online to see if it's in stock. Will just deliver to you when in stock.
02-02-2017 | 04:32 AM
#2811
02-02-2017 | 10:42 AM
#2812
Do Not Upgrade your .3 to a .4, unless of course the kits are out of stock and the parts are readily available...
Last edited by suzukipro; 02-02-2017 at 11:28 AM.
02-02-2017 | 11:51 AM
#2813
Very likely on indoor at least, it just works better for me. To add insult to upgrade injury I just assembled the new C, D hinge pin holders and the rear gearbox won't drop in the recessed chassis area without the C plate hitting the back of the battery tray. The .4 Chassis must also be slightly longer or have things offset compared to the .3 Chassis. My $300.00 upgrade just turned into a $400.00 upgrade due to the need for a new Chassis.
Do Not Upgrade your .3 to a .4, unless of course the kits are out of stock and the parts are readily available...
Do Not Upgrade your .3 to a .4, unless of course the kits are out of stock and the parts are readily available...
02-02-2017 | 11:59 AM
#2814
Actually the 410.3 to SL is actually pretty affordable, you just need to get the 17mm hex adaptors, a front bumper, Buggy body and wing and you're pretty much there.
02-02-2017 | 12:04 PM
#2815
Very likely on indoor at least, it just works better for me. To add insult to upgrade injury I just assembled the new C, D hinge pin holders and the rear gearbox won't drop in the recessed chassis area without the C plate hitting the back of the battery tray. The .4 Chassis must also be slightly longer or have things offset compared to the .3 Chassis. My $300.00 upgrade just turned into a $400.00 upgrade due to the need for a new Chassis.
Do Not Upgrade your .3 to a .4, unless of course the kits are out of stock and the parts are readily available...
Do Not Upgrade your .3 to a .4, unless of course the kits are out of stock and the parts are readily available...
02-02-2017 | 03:29 PM
#2817
A new .4 Chassis has been ordered and the only thing that'll carry over from the .3 will be the differentials, and A/B hinge pin holders.
What started in theory out as good plan to only upgrade a couple items on my .3 has turned into an almost full on .4 conversion, things weren't as compatible as I thought they would be
02-02-2017 | 04:56 PM
#2818
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 328
Yup I added all the upgrades in my cart to convert the .3 to .4 and it came up to over $400. That's without the new chassis.
I'm starting to feel spoiled with the stable feel of the .4 steering. It's so good and easy to drive, its like I'm playing a video game. Think I'll be going back and forth .4 and .3 steering when I just want a different steering feel. But when it's race time the .4 steering is on for sure. With the updated steering, it drives as stable as my old kyosho fs2 but with much more steering and responsiveness. Some companies struggle to get a stable car when it steers hard, or don't have enough steering to maintain stability, but there is no compromise here. My .3 with the outdoor setup and .4 steering is super stable with a bit of rotation that is very predictable and easy to control, works in sync with the steering. The .4 has wider hinge pin braces to make it even more stable, but might be too stable with how I read at the .4 thread about someone not getting enough steering. That's just one guy though. I didn't read all the thoughts and comments there.
I'm starting to feel spoiled with the stable feel of the .4 steering. It's so good and easy to drive, its like I'm playing a video game. Think I'll be going back and forth .4 and .3 steering when I just want a different steering feel. But when it's race time the .4 steering is on for sure. With the updated steering, it drives as stable as my old kyosho fs2 but with much more steering and responsiveness. Some companies struggle to get a stable car when it steers hard, or don't have enough steering to maintain stability, but there is no compromise here. My .3 with the outdoor setup and .4 steering is super stable with a bit of rotation that is very predictable and easy to control, works in sync with the steering. The .4 has wider hinge pin braces to make it even more stable, but might be too stable with how I read at the .4 thread about someone not getting enough steering. That's just one guy though. I didn't read all the thoughts and comments there.
02-02-2017 | 06:26 PM
#2819
Tech Regular
iTrader: (20)
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 413
I have the M2C chassis on my .3 and it isn't even close to fitting aside from the drop screw plates. I'd have to cut int the receiver box to get the C block to fit.
A new .4 Chassis has been ordered and the only thing that'll carry over from the .3 will be the differentials, and A/B hinge pin holders.
What started in theory out as good plan to only upgrade a couple items on my .3 has turned into an almost full on .4 conversion, things weren't as compatible as I thought they would be
A new .4 Chassis has been ordered and the only thing that'll carry over from the .3 will be the differentials, and A/B hinge pin holders.
What started in theory out as good plan to only upgrade a couple items on my .3 has turned into an almost full on .4 conversion, things weren't as compatible as I thought they would be
02-02-2017 | 08:04 PM
#2820
The Ackerman plate and bell cranks are a worthy upgrade, but I believe anything other add on's wouldn't be cost effective compared to just buying a new EB48.4 kit.