Well it could be that the outdoor track uses similar dirt as the indoor track they tested on. I know our old local track had both outdoor and indoor 1/10 scale tracks and the grip was about equal on both. So I could setup my car with the same tires and drive on either track without worry.

Chickened out for now, back to my standard set-up for tomorrow night racing LOL..

I want to try the new set-up, but I will wait until I have the new front steering parts.
(already have the rear hubs)

I am thinking it may be a better "base" setup what they posted. You will still tune from there, but having a great base really helps.

Weedsnager,
We have extensively tested this setup at our local indoor (SDRC Raceway) and outdoor track (heritage RC park) and we're surprised to find it worked well at both locations. Neither track is anything alike, SDRC is a medium size clay track and Heritage is a huge outdoor nitro track.

Only real change was to lower ride height to 19mm for indoor. Highly recommend this to be used as a base setup as it's easy to drive and jumps well.

Matt, did you try this setup on the 48SL?

Great info thank you

Matt, this is the setup I put on to use for our carpet:

http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...0Astroturf.pdf

From your general experience what would you lift from that setup specifically and use on the new recommended setup for carpet / astro / ultra high traction? Basically looking to hybrid the two and maybe have a nice new carpet setup.


Looked out at tower hobbies but saw no mention of the new steering parts that were used on the new base setup and it appears the plate is out of stock at Tekno too. Any ideas on when that will come back in and we will see it over at tower?

Cain,
I would try a few things, not sure if any of the changes I will recommend would make a difference since we have not run on carpet/Astro but we have found them to make a significant difference on dirt. We have found that changing the wheelbase to 5f 0r has provided more on power steering, reducing the antisquat to 0 (going up on the D block) helps the truck jump more nose down and going to the shortest link on the front has made the steering less aggressive.

Not sure I would recommend the HRC rear hubs as they provide more rear grip, probably not necessary on carpet/Astro.

Not sure when we will receive more tkr8100, should be within the next few weeks. If tower doesn't even have them listed then they will get them a couple weeks after we do. Looks like amain has limited quantities in stock. Recommend purchasing from them asap as they might be one of the few who have them.

Troyster,
Haven't tried this on the EB48SL, they behave very differently on the track so but I would try the wheel base, lower ride height (probably 23mm) and link positions. Not sure the 0 antisquat is necessary on this vehicle.

Thanks I appreciate any help. The Tekno is pretty much like the "spec" car at the track lol. Main reason I went away from the tekno was the nose down issue so looking forward to seeing the changes affecting that.

Am I correct that this link will be the right size we also need for the whole "50mm" turnbuckle length?

tkr5550

http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5550-...rontrear-2pcs/

Looks like went out of stock as soon as I went to buy it.

What ride height would you use for larger outdoor tracks with 1/8 jumps?

Cain, the 5550 part is for the buggy, you need #5123 for the SCT steering link.

Note, I made the same mistake when I read you had to cut the steering link down 6mm and I wanted to have an extra one in case I wanted to put it back to my stock set-up.

Hopefully I won't have to... next Friday will tell....

Fairly new to short couse, do most cut a lot of vent holes in their bodies to get them to fly better? I had a jc raptor body that flew ok but then I cut several vent holes in it and made it almost uncontrollable in the air. I now have a jc f250 body, but have not cut any holes in it yet, any suggestions or is driver and vehicle specific? This is on a large 8th scale track with several big jumps

the modification note wrongly list the camber link #5550 as the part needed to be cut instead of the steering link #5123

"In order to obtain positive static toe, both left and right steering turnbuckles for the EB/NB48 (TKR5050) and SCT410/EB48SL (TKR5550) will need to be shortened by approx 6mm (3mm on each side of both turnbuckles)."

In general I would stick with whatever cutouts they outlined from the factory. The only extra cutouts I've made were just to help cool components and didn't effect the flight much