+1 love that body. Rear end stays glued

This is the setup I am going with with a changes, but basically this:

http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...0Astroturf.pdf

For that general purpose setup was thinking what could be changed from that to go with for carpet / super high traction.

Got in another SCT410.3 and it has alloy caps and some other upgrade, excellent condition. Excited to get that together for my girls.

I used that body to my tekno410.3 before but not happy i heard from Jeremy too but when i tried its sucks it's better for me Jconcept HF2 or Proline Flo-tek. Also the parma SPEEDFLO but not durable as like the proline flo-tek.

I'll be giving this one a try, mainly as I liked the styling:

https://www.prolineracing.com/bodies...00-clear-body/

One of my friend's run that dodge shell. He seems to like it and seems to do well with it.
But I got to be honest, I have raced stuff like the 64 ford body from proline and set fast lap of the day records with it as well. I know the shells help and all, but I think people put more faith in most of them than what they actually do at the speeds we are mostly running at.

Cool. Looks like the same rear as the jconcepts titan body.

yeah I bought my first truck few months ago so figured this would be my mini version of it lol.

Hi DriveItLikeYSIT, those would be good but recommend enlarging the holes to 1.4 if you can. If you choose to use the 8x1.3 pistons you will want to go down in shock oil about 50 cst from what I recommended.

I swapped the shafts out for new ones...still binding. I noticed that if I backed off the caps that hold the seals in, everything freed up. Is it possible to overtighten these?

Hi RookieRacer00,
How old are the seals? After time they do swell and need to be replaced. Also if you are using the black shock guides, recommend verifying that all of the flashing has been removed. If any flashing is left it can cause the shock to bind.

The seals are original and only have about 8 or so races on them. I do have the black guides. I will check to see if there's any flashing left on them. There was flashing on the valves/pistons which I did remove and this seemed to help somewhat. Thanks for the help.

Just replaced both drive shafts. Front was warped. The rear war worn. On the rear one drive shaft, the pins on center diff side were worn almost half the way through. Pins on the rear diff side were fine. Is this normal wear and tear? I'm racing it on an off-road packed and groomed dirt track. Another guy at the track who is really fast says he has warped the front drive shaft as well.

Matt,
My shock pistons and drill bit arrived today and I've now made the changes to my truck following your new set-up sheet. I'm very curious to see how my truck is going to handle. The changes are very big compared to what I have been running. The track is a large indoor track, bumpy, hard packed with a ton of traction (we have been running it dry). Tomorrow is race night, I plan to go in the afternoon and run a few battery packs to see if I like it. The current set-up I have been running is hooked up and works great for me... (posted below). The one thing I am looking for is a little more controlled speed out of the corners. And I asked Santa for a little help with my driving skills... but...

Changes I made:
1. Akerman forward
2. Ackerman washers
3. Front camber link
4. Front shock at the tower
5. Kick-up (from 11 to 9)
6. Sweep (from 0 to -1)
7. Rear shock at the tower
8. Anti squat (from 2 to 0) (not sure if I am reading yours correct?)
9. Ride height.. normally run 25 (body off) due to bumpy track.
10. Camber (minor change, will probably leave rear a -3 due to bumps)
11. Rear sway bar from 2.5 to 2.4
12. Shocks length (full travel is the same as the dimensions you noted)
13. Wheel base (3mm to 4 front)
14. Shock oil to 35f/25r AE
15. Pistons (6x1.5 to 8x1.4)
16. Front spring (green to black)

I went to the track yesterday and went ahead and tried a 17t pinion.. WOW!!! Woke the motor up big time. And I re-adjusted the speed control as you suggested (worked great). I was able to take out the throttle expo I have been using.

How important is it to get the updated steering parts 8100 & 8104? I over looked those on your set-up sheet. Ooops.
edit.. after looking up the parts and reading about them I think I answered my question.
Thanks
Cliff

Lowspark,
Thanks for giving the setup a try. Highly recommend the new steering ackermann and bellcranks, they are a big part of the setup along with the HRC hubs. Might want to reduce the droop on high traction if it tends to transfer too much weight and traction roll. Other than that the truck should be pretty good. Yes that is 0 degrees of antisquat.

Will there be additional set up sheets coming out soon ? Just find it odd that the newest set up sheet is supposed to be for indoor and outdoor....how can it work for both conditions ?