True, but it's possible to copy everything from the way the team drivers perform rebuilds without replacing the bladders... I do

Two possible causes.

1. Your shocks are too short. You need about 9 to 9.5mm of shock rod visible when fully extended.

2. You're measuring the droop wrong. It should be 5 when measured under the outer edge of the suspension arm. I've seen people measure it under the c-hub grub-screw which causes this issue.

Has anyone used the trinity rear hubs on the T4? The ballstud keeps cocking slightly on my plastic hubs (deforming the plastic slightly) and the trinity alum ones are the same price as the X-ray plastic ones so figured might as well get those instead (if they are good quality and fit)

Another option is to put a longish set screw in the second hole, before installing
the ball stud.

Oh to tighten up the hole with the ballstud in it? Didn't think about that. But I'm Gna need to replace it now that it started to deform already so I'd rather go alum if they are the same price I guess. But $18 for rear hubs on any vehicle just seems cheap so if anyone knows how they fit/work lemme know.

In addition to that question I have a steering question. My car doesn't turn in as good as all the other vehicles out there and it slows me down tremendously. I pretty much have the box setup. I run on carpet wth foam tires I run 10k diff fluid. Steering is 100% on the radio so not sure where to go from here. Actually I used a setup that changed all the hinge inserts to the middle ones and put the notch on the diffs to the top postion. Messed up the steering a lot. So I put the diffs back to the bottom position and put the .5 inserts pointing outward in the rr and the middle inserts in the rf. for the front I have the .5 outer upper corner in the ff and fr. This helped some but I'm still pushing in the corner and taking the turns wide. I'm running 45% drag brake so the esc does all my braking. I do this cause I can't seem to just give a little brake on the radio it's either nothing or I slam the trigger all the way forward. I can't seem to do like half brake.
Also if it matters the track is kinda small so it's not a fast track. I have the avid alum chasis but wouldn't the carbon chasis be better on carpet? Or not really?

45% drag brake is A LOT for Touring Car racing. having that much drake brake will cause drastic handling changes between on and off throttle.

We need some more info to help you out like racing surface, shock oil & spring rates, electronics used, total weight, etc.

It looks like you have a lot off off road vehicles... is this your first on-road racer?

Agreed more info would be nice.

For brakes, turn drag down to about 15% and decrease EPA on brakes until you can brake sanely.

Ya this is my first on road car... not sure about car weight... if I remember right I'm about 300 rear, 450 weight front for shock oil. (But what is good)? I can redo them. I have no idea what springs I have the color coating is rubbed off. I bought it used. I have the avid alum chasis and running orca vx3 with reedy 17.5 but about to switch to fantom fr-1 17.5 and Xpert 3431 servo. I do know that the chasis is rubbing the carpet when I turn left cause there is black on the right edge on the chasis protector. Surface is black carpet. Tires are foam. Front is pink/orange with the hard outer rib and rear are double pinks.
I need to figure something out. I jus wish there was more support at the track for X-ray ppl. I was so frustrated I was ready to sell it and buy a tc7 but I really really don't wanna do that. Lol. I've never liked associated stuff, mainly cause I've always had X-ray for 10th scale and love the quality of the parts and kits. But tc7's were wiping the floor with me.

are you using any sort of traction compound (sauce, SXT, carpet gripper, etc.)? If not, that could be a big part of why you are having such difficulty turning, as you car is lacking grip.

And if your track is carpet - do touring cars there run foam tires as opposed to rubber? When it comes to touring cars, rubber tires are most common for carpet racing, while foam tires are generally used on asphalt, and even then, foam is usually used with nitro touring - not electric. At the carpet tracks I go to, the only cars that run foam tires are pan cars (2WD). Everything else runs rubber tires.

xray springs are not color coded, but instead have the actual rate etched into the top of the spring. You may need to remove the spring from the shock to be able to see the number listed.

If the chassis is rubbing, you likely have your ride height set too low.

It may be annoying and time consuming, but I would highly recommend you tear down the entire chassis, make sure the chassis itself isn't bent (which is possible), and rebuild the car from the ground up using the factory set up sheet as a guide.

from there, reset your ESC and Radio to stock specs (NO drake brake), and set up your radio for the car. From there, you can adjust your steering rate and brake from the transmitter, which will further help you dial the car in to your liking.

Post some pictures if you can, just so we have a better idea of the cars current condition / setup.

Its also worth mentioning that touring car racing is DRASTICALLY different from off-road racing, and some wheel time might be in order to help you get used to the new type of racing.

I will post some pics later tonight. Thanks. But ya for onroad cars they run foam and don't allow traction compound. I've said several times we should be using rubber tires but they say the rubber tires didn't have good traction on the carpet there so idk. I will be redoing the setup either this weekend or next. But the avid chasis was new when I got it. The car had a tamale chasis on it when I got it. Would the carbon stock chasis help me or is avid alum better for carpet?

What track is this?! Do you know what type of carpet it is?

If you are indeed running a touring car with foam tires on carpet - then your car likely has too much traction.

Does your car roll over on hard turns, otherwise known as "traction rolling?"

If it does, you would want to make your chassis as stiff a possible, and use either the flex aluminum chassis, or a solid aluminum chassis.

Ultimately and unfortunately, you are in uncharted waters more or less. The last touring car that Xray designed around foam tires was about 6 years ago, and the norm since then has deviated away from foam tires. If you could post a full setup of what you are running, as well as pictures of the track/ track surface (you say black carpet, is this the new CRC FT2 carpet?) and potentially a video of some sort, I think we could start steering you in the correct direction. However, I would agree right away that an Xray Solid chassis would be ideal, as well as running the screws and spacers for the layshaft mount, and the stiffest settings for the center brace.

thanks for that, I measured it wrong, it is now "fixed"

Just finished assembling my t4 17, everything is mounted except the top deck, motor, ESC and receiver. the issue is when I lay it on a setup board I see a tiny bit of light under the front and rear of the aluminum flex chassis that came with the kit (a U.S. kit). It was perfectly flat before I started putting it together. I've decided to not use the center stiffening brace between the servo mount and the motor mount for now, at least until I can get some track time on our asphalt track.

Before applying the protective film I'd like to make it lay flat.....any ideas or input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,