22LikesTekno RC EB48.3 Thread
10-31-2016 | 11:14 PM
#2491
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 855
From: Kingsport, TN (Still SC tho)
Most definitely, we have been using TKR6018 emulsion caps on the EB, NB, SCT and EB48SL with great success! No need to change oils or pistons. Please follow the build instructions below to make sure they are consistent.
Build Directions:
Drill a small hole in the bleeder hole of the cap. Do not drill the vent hole on the side of the cap. I used a 2.0mm drill and be sure to remove all flashing.
Put the o-ring on the shock body.
Fill the shock to the top so the fluid is level or even slightly higher than the body.
No need to use a bladder.
By hand, carefully screw the cap on as it’s somewhat easy to cross thread the cap. I like to turn the cap counter clockwise until you feel the threads meet with the body, then turn the cap clockwise to seat.
Pull the shock boot over the shock end and completely push the shaft in. A little oil should come out. If none does, remove the cap and fill the body higher.
With the black o-ring on the flat head screw, screw in the screw and pump the shock about 30 times and leave the shaft fully extended.
Remove the bleeder screw and push the shaft all the way in, then quickly put the screw back in. More oil should come out. It’s important to make sure the shocks don’t hydro-lock when the shaft is fully inserted.
Using this method the shocks should be very close to dead when fully compressed and slightly retract when fully extended. Once you pump the shock a dozen times, it should be very close to dead on full compression and extension.
Last thing is to tighten the cap with tools, it needs to be snug but don't over tighten. Usually only needs 1/16th of a turn. The caps need to be a little tighter than you can do by hand but be careful when tightening the caps with tools. The caps can be very tight but not as tight as the aluminum caps.
It's actually really easy to build them emulsion style but they do need a little more maintenance as they need to be rebled when traveling or if there is a large temperature differential and before each event.
Most important thing is to make sure they don't hydrolock. Meaning the shaft should be able to be fully compressed. If there is too much oil in the shock, the shaft will be very difficult to fully press in.
Give it a try and let us know what you think!
Build Directions:
Drill a small hole in the bleeder hole of the cap. Do not drill the vent hole on the side of the cap. I used a 2.0mm drill and be sure to remove all flashing.
Put the o-ring on the shock body.
Fill the shock to the top so the fluid is level or even slightly higher than the body.
No need to use a bladder.
By hand, carefully screw the cap on as it’s somewhat easy to cross thread the cap. I like to turn the cap counter clockwise until you feel the threads meet with the body, then turn the cap clockwise to seat.
Pull the shock boot over the shock end and completely push the shaft in. A little oil should come out. If none does, remove the cap and fill the body higher.
With the black o-ring on the flat head screw, screw in the screw and pump the shock about 30 times and leave the shaft fully extended.
Remove the bleeder screw and push the shaft all the way in, then quickly put the screw back in. More oil should come out. It’s important to make sure the shocks don’t hydro-lock when the shaft is fully inserted.
Using this method the shocks should be very close to dead when fully compressed and slightly retract when fully extended. Once you pump the shock a dozen times, it should be very close to dead on full compression and extension.
Last thing is to tighten the cap with tools, it needs to be snug but don't over tighten. Usually only needs 1/16th of a turn. The caps need to be a little tighter than you can do by hand but be careful when tightening the caps with tools. The caps can be very tight but not as tight as the aluminum caps.
It's actually really easy to build them emulsion style but they do need a little more maintenance as they need to be rebled when traveling or if there is a large temperature differential and before each event.
Most important thing is to make sure they don't hydrolock. Meaning the shaft should be able to be fully compressed. If there is too much oil in the shock, the shaft will be very difficult to fully press in.
Give it a try and let us know what you think!
11-01-2016 | 06:15 PM
#2493
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Matt, being in the fall season, the temp changes a lot here say starting from mid 40s up to mid 70s and then back to maybe low 60s by the time mains are done. If I build emulsion shocks, will I have to rebuild them a couple of times on race day with this much of a temperature range?
11-03-2016 | 04:44 AM
#2494
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 17
With the new recommended outdoor setup does the rear seem really stiff on the bench to anyone else? Even testing on pavement it seems like the rear end just slides around. Granted i have not installed the new HRC hubs yet. Just curious on anyones input on this.
11-03-2016 | 09:36 AM
#2496
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 17
11-03-2016 | 10:48 AM
#2498
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
I ran one in there. You have to cut the side pod down. It's not ideal. I never had any failures or anything, but it's not something that I liked.
11-03-2016 | 09:39 PM
#2499
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 340
From: San Diego
Matt, being in the fall season, the temp changes a lot here say starting from mid 40s up to mid 70s and then back to maybe low 60s by the time mains are done. If I build emulsion shocks, will I have to rebuild them a couple of times on race day with this much of a temperature range?
To be honest with that big of a temp delta you will want to go heavier on the oil for mid day. 30 degrees is a big difference.
So what we do to test oil thickness is a quick bench test. It's kind of hard to explain but move the front or rear suspension up and down quickly and at increasing speed. Start slow and increase speed. Goal is to have your wheels on the bench at slow and medium oscillation but when you get to the fastest speed you can move, the wheels should come off the bench slightly. Difficult to explain but I'll see if we can make a video.
Rule of thumb, if your wheels are off the track (because the oil is too thick) you will lose traction, tires will bounce off the bumps and it will be very difficult to drive. If it's too light it won't land jumps well and will will roll too much in the corners (not supported properly) and you will lose corner speed. It's a give and take, like many things with setup.
11-04-2016 | 03:41 PM
#2501
so im torn between these servo's... the websites show varying stats, like for the highest fiercerc says .07/412oz but highest's website says .07/294oz?... huge difference..
Which is most recommended?
A) savox 2274 - .08 347oz
B) futaba s9372sv - .06 342oz
C) protek 150s - .06 346oz
D) protek 170s - .07 549oz
E) highest dt2100 - .07 412oz / .07 294oz?
the protek 150s seems like the best stat/price wise, but wasn't sure if they were accurate. also I hear a lot of good things about highest, but have never personally used them. I currently use savox 1267/1268 in my 2 cars but need to change soon due to wires being in rough condition.
sorry for beating a dead horse, i see a lot of posts when i search some of these servos in this thread, but nothing really about the highest/protek, mostly savox info.
Which is most recommended?
A) savox 2274 - .08 347oz
B) futaba s9372sv - .06 342oz
C) protek 150s - .06 346oz
D) protek 170s - .07 549oz
E) highest dt2100 - .07 412oz / .07 294oz?
the protek 150s seems like the best stat/price wise, but wasn't sure if they were accurate. also I hear a lot of good things about highest, but have never personally used them. I currently use savox 1267/1268 in my 2 cars but need to change soon due to wires being in rough condition.
sorry for beating a dead horse, i see a lot of posts when i search some of these servos in this thread, but nothing really about the highest/protek, mostly savox info.
11-04-2016 | 06:29 PM
#2502
so im torn between these servo's... the websites show varying stats, like for the highest fiercerc says .07/412oz but highest's website says .07/294oz?... huge difference..
Which is most recommended?
A) savox 2274 - .08 347oz
B) futaba s9372sv - .06 342oz
C) protek 150s - .06 346oz
D) protek 170s - .07 549oz
E) highest dt2100 - .07 412oz / .07 294oz?
the protek 150s seems like the best stat/price wise, but wasn't sure if they were accurate. also I hear a lot of good things about highest, but have never personally used them. I currently use savox 1267/1268 in my 2 cars but need to change soon due to wires being in rough condition.
sorry for beating a dead horse, i see a lot of posts when i search some of these servos in this thread, but nothing really about the highest/protek, mostly savox info.
Which is most recommended?
A) savox 2274 - .08 347oz
B) futaba s9372sv - .06 342oz
C) protek 150s - .06 346oz
D) protek 170s - .07 549oz
E) highest dt2100 - .07 412oz / .07 294oz?
the protek 150s seems like the best stat/price wise, but wasn't sure if they were accurate. also I hear a lot of good things about highest, but have never personally used them. I currently use savox 1267/1268 in my 2 cars but need to change soon due to wires being in rough condition.
sorry for beating a dead horse, i see a lot of posts when i search some of these servos in this thread, but nothing really about the highest/protek, mostly savox info.
11-04-2016 | 06:56 PM
#2503
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,808
From: Texas
so im torn between these servo's... the websites show varying stats, like for the highest fiercerc says .07/412oz but highest's website says .07/294oz?... huge difference..
Which is most recommended?
A) savox 2274 - .08 347oz
B) futaba s9372sv - .06 342oz
C) protek 150s - .06 346oz
D) protek 170s - .07 549oz
E) highest dt2100 - .07 412oz / .07 294oz?
the protek 150s seems like the best stat/price wise, but wasn't sure if they were accurate. also I hear a lot of good things about highest, but have never personally used them. I currently use savox 1267/1268 in my 2 cars but need to change soon due to wires being in rough condition.
sorry for beating a dead horse, i see a lot of posts when i search some of these servos in this thread, but nothing really about the highest/protek, mostly savox info.
Which is most recommended?
A) savox 2274 - .08 347oz
B) futaba s9372sv - .06 342oz
C) protek 150s - .06 346oz
D) protek 170s - .07 549oz
E) highest dt2100 - .07 412oz / .07 294oz?
the protek 150s seems like the best stat/price wise, but wasn't sure if they were accurate. also I hear a lot of good things about highest, but have never personally used them. I currently use savox 1267/1268 in my 2 cars but need to change soon due to wires being in rough condition.
sorry for beating a dead horse, i see a lot of posts when i search some of these servos in this thread, but nothing really about the highest/protek, mostly savox info.
0.09 527.72 oz/in at 7.2v
11-05-2016 | 06:19 PM
#2504
so im torn between these servo's... the websites show varying stats, like for the highest fiercerc says .07/412oz but highest's website says .07/294oz?... huge difference..
Which is most recommended?
A) savox 2274 - .08 347oz
B) futaba s9372sv - .06 342oz
C) protek 150s - .06 346oz
D) protek 170s - .07 549oz
E) highest dt2100 - .07 412oz / .07 294oz?
the protek 150s seems like the best stat/price wise, but wasn't sure if they were accurate. also I hear a lot of good things about highest, but have never personally used them. I currently use savox 1267/1268 in my 2 cars but need to change soon due to wires being in rough condition.
sorry for beating a dead horse, i see a lot of posts when i search some of these servos in this thread, but nothing really about the highest/protek, mostly savox info.
Which is most recommended?
A) savox 2274 - .08 347oz
B) futaba s9372sv - .06 342oz
C) protek 150s - .06 346oz
D) protek 170s - .07 549oz
E) highest dt2100 - .07 412oz / .07 294oz?
the protek 150s seems like the best stat/price wise, but wasn't sure if they were accurate. also I hear a lot of good things about highest, but have never personally used them. I currently use savox 1267/1268 in my 2 cars but need to change soon due to wires being in rough condition.
sorry for beating a dead horse, i see a lot of posts when i search some of these servos in this thread, but nothing really about the highest/protek, mostly savox info.
364 oz-in (26.2kg-cm) @ 6V; 440 oz-in (31.7kg-cm) @ 7.4V; 496 oz-in (35.7kg-cm) @ 8.4V
11-05-2016 | 09:05 PM
#2505