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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-01-2016, 12:14 AM   #2491
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Most definitely, we have been using TKR6018 emulsion caps on the EB, NB, SCT and EB48SL with great success! No need to change oils or pistons. Please follow the build instructions below to make sure they are consistent.

Build Directions:
Drill a small hole in the bleeder hole of the cap. Do not drill the vent hole on the side of the cap. I used a 2.0mm drill and be sure to remove all flashing.
Put the o-ring on the shock body.

Fill the shock to the top so the fluid is level or even slightly higher than the body.

No need to use a bladder.

By hand, carefully screw the cap on as it’s somewhat easy to cross thread the cap. I like to turn the cap counter clockwise until you feel the threads meet with the body, then turn the cap clockwise to seat.

Pull the shock boot over the shock end and completely push the shaft in. A little oil should come out. If none does, remove the cap and fill the body higher.
With the black o-ring on the flat head screw, screw in the screw and pump the shock about 30 times and leave the shaft fully extended.

Remove the bleeder screw and push the shaft all the way in, then quickly put the screw back in. More oil should come out. It’s important to make sure the shocks don’t hydro-lock when the shaft is fully inserted.

Using this method the shocks should be very close to dead when fully compressed and slightly retract when fully extended. Once you pump the shock a dozen times, it should be very close to dead on full compression and extension.

Last thing is to tighten the cap with tools, it needs to be snug but don't over tighten. Usually only needs 1/16th of a turn. The caps need to be a little tighter than you can do by hand but be careful when tightening the caps with tools. The caps can be very tight but not as tight as the aluminum caps.

It's actually really easy to build them emulsion style but they do need a little more maintenance as they need to be rebled when traveling or if there is a large temperature differential and before each event.

Most important thing is to make sure they don't hydrolock. Meaning the shaft should be able to be fully compressed. If there is too much oil in the shock, the shaft will be very difficult to fully press in.

Give it a try and let us know what you think!
Matt, being in the fall season, the temp changes a lot here say starting from mid 40s up to mid 70s and then back to maybe low 60s by the time mains are done. If I build emulsion shocks, will I have to rebuild them a couple of times on race day with this much of a temperature range?
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:10 PM   #2492
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Does anyone run with no sway bars? I tried it and it felt pretty good but never see anyone do it? Rough loose track
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:15 PM   #2493
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Matt, being in the fall season, the temp changes a lot here say starting from mid 40s up to mid 70s and then back to maybe low 60s by the time mains are done. If I build emulsion shocks, will I have to rebuild them a couple of times on race day with this much of a temperature range?
I haven't tried them yet myself, but I can tell you that with my 10th scale cars I would typically just re-bleed them and then see how they feel. If the oil felt thicker, then I would just go down 1/2 wt and try again. 9 times out of 10 I didn't have to do anything other than re-bleed though.
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Old 11-03-2016, 05:44 AM   #2494
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With the new recommended outdoor setup does the rear seem really stiff on the bench to anyone else? Even testing on pavement it seems like the rear end just slides around. Granted i have not installed the new HRC hubs yet. Just curious on anyones input on this.
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Old 11-03-2016, 06:25 AM   #2495
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I thought mine felt ok on the bench. Then again im using the really bumpy setup. And also have the new hubs and springs
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Old 11-03-2016, 10:36 AM   #2496
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I thought mine felt ok on the bench. Then again im using the really bumpy setup. And also have the new hubs and springs
I have the new hubs and the emulsion caps coming in today so I hope it will feel better. I will post the results
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Old 11-03-2016, 11:43 AM   #2497
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has anyone had issues with a novak active 8 esc fitting into the eb48.3? my tekin finally gave up after 4 yrs.. and may try the novak for now, ...I know they are no longer in bussiness etc...
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Old 11-03-2016, 11:48 AM   #2498
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has anyone had issues with a novak active 8 esc fitting into the eb48.3? my tekin finally gave up after 4 yrs.. and may try the novak for now, ...I know they are no longer in bussiness etc...
I ran one in there. You have to cut the side pod down. It's not ideal. I never had any failures or anything, but it's not something that I liked.
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Old 11-03-2016, 10:39 PM   #2499
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Matt, being in the fall season, the temp changes a lot here say starting from mid 40s up to mid 70s and then back to maybe low 60s by the time mains are done. If I build emulsion shocks, will I have to rebuild them a couple of times on race day with this much of a temperature range?
That's quite a big temp change. Hard to say, but short answer is yes. Best thing to do is test them by taking them off the car and pumping them 30 times. If they rebound the same amount as they did in earlier then you are fine.

To be honest with that big of a temp delta you will want to go heavier on the oil for mid day. 30 degrees is a big difference.

So what we do to test oil thickness is a quick bench test. It's kind of hard to explain but move the front or rear suspension up and down quickly and at increasing speed. Start slow and increase speed. Goal is to have your wheels on the bench at slow and medium oscillation but when you get to the fastest speed you can move, the wheels should come off the bench slightly. Difficult to explain but I'll see if we can make a video.

Rule of thumb, if your wheels are off the track (because the oil is too thick) you will lose traction, tires will bounce off the bumps and it will be very difficult to drive. If it's too light it won't land jumps well and will will roll too much in the corners (not supported properly) and you will lose corner speed. It's a give and take, like many things with setup.
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Old 11-03-2016, 10:44 PM   #2500
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With the new recommended outdoor setup does the rear seem really stiff on the bench to anyone else? Even testing on pavement it seems like the rear end just slides around. Granted i have not installed the new HRC hubs yet. Just curious on anyones input on this.
Our recommended setups should be good for about 80 degrees fahrenheit. So if you're in a colder area, oils will need to be lowered.
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Old 11-04-2016, 04:41 PM   #2501
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so im torn between these servo's... the websites show varying stats, like for the highest fiercerc says .07/412oz but highest's website says .07/294oz?... huge difference..

Which is most recommended?
A) savox 2274 - .08 347oz
B) futaba s9372sv - .06 342oz
C) protek 150s - .06 346oz
D) protek 170s - .07 549oz
E) highest dt2100 - .07 412oz / .07 294oz?


the protek 150s seems like the best stat/price wise, but wasn't sure if they were accurate. also I hear a lot of good things about highest, but have never personally used them. I currently use savox 1267/1268 in my 2 cars but need to change soon due to wires being in rough condition.

sorry for beating a dead horse, i see a lot of posts when i search some of these servos in this thread, but nothing really about the highest/protek, mostly savox info.
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Old 11-04-2016, 07:29 PM   #2502
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Originally Posted by shadaloo View Post
so im torn between these servo's... the websites show varying stats, like for the highest fiercerc says .07/412oz but highest's website says .07/294oz?... huge difference..

Which is most recommended?
A) savox 2274 - .08 347oz
B) futaba s9372sv - .06 342oz
C) protek 150s - .06 346oz
D) protek 170s - .07 549oz
E) highest dt2100 - .07 412oz / .07 294oz?


the protek 150s seems like the best stat/price wise, but wasn't sure if they were accurate. also I hear a lot of good things about highest, but have never personally used them. I currently use savox 1267/1268 in my 2 cars but need to change soon due to wires being in rough condition.

sorry for beating a dead horse, i see a lot of posts when i search some of these servos in this thread, but nothing really about the highest/protek, mostly savox info.
The Hitec 7955TG is a very popular servo on Tekno vehicles for a reason
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Old 11-04-2016, 07:56 PM   #2503
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Originally Posted by shadaloo View Post
so im torn between these servo's... the websites show varying stats, like for the highest fiercerc says .07/412oz but highest's website says .07/294oz?... huge difference..

Which is most recommended?
A) savox 2274 - .08 347oz
B) futaba s9372sv - .06 342oz
C) protek 150s - .06 346oz
D) protek 170s - .07 549oz
E) highest dt2100 - .07 412oz / .07 294oz?


the protek 150s seems like the best stat/price wise, but wasn't sure if they were accurate. also I hear a lot of good things about highest, but have never personally used them. I currently use savox 1267/1268 in my 2 cars but need to change soon due to wires being in rough condition.

sorry for beating a dead horse, i see a lot of posts when i search some of these servos in this thread, but nothing really about the highest/protek, mostly savox info.
Most of the Tekno team driver have switched to the MKS 599.
0.09 527.72 oz/in at 7.2v
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Old 11-05-2016, 07:19 PM   #2504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadaloo View Post
so im torn between these servo's... the websites show varying stats, like for the highest fiercerc says .07/412oz but highest's website says .07/294oz?... huge difference..

Which is most recommended?
A) savox 2274 - .08 347oz
B) futaba s9372sv - .06 342oz
C) protek 150s - .06 346oz
D) protek 170s - .07 549oz
E) highest dt2100 - .07 412oz / .07 294oz?


the protek 150s seems like the best stat/price wise, but wasn't sure if they were accurate. also I hear a lot of good things about highest, but have never personally used them. I currently use savox 1267/1268 in my 2 cars but need to change soon due to wires being in rough condition.

sorry for beating a dead horse, i see a lot of posts when i search some of these servos in this thread, but nothing really about the highest/protek, mostly savox info.
I have ran the Protek 150T and 150S. Both are decent. I currently run the Spectrum S6280 with the specs below

364 oz-in (26.2kg-cm) @ 6V; 440 oz-in (31.7kg-cm) @ 7.4V; 496 oz-in (35.7kg-cm) @ 8.4V
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Old 11-05-2016, 10:05 PM   #2505
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
Most of the Tekno team driver have switched to the MKS 599.
0.09 527.72 oz/in at 7.2v
never looked into mks, but that servo does look very nice. the reviews i see for it so far look good, my decision just got harder.. >< haha
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