Long eyelets in the rear, but just realized I put short eyelets in the front - the manual calls for long in front too..

Front should be short if you have the shock on the inside or middle hole of the arm, and long if the shock is in the outside hole.

Rears are short if shocks are mounted on the front of arm, and long if mounted on the rear of arm.

Wiki has a good diagram that Kody posted.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...ead-manual.jpg

This is a sneak peak at the Standard Front Tower. We anodize them in house. Three color options, polished silver, blue and black. The blue and black have chrome edges. These stock towers are only 1.4 grams heavier than a stock tower ae tower. Not sure how these would make anyone's car look like a tyco car lol

I think they look pretty good. Someone else mentioned this, but a hard anodizing option similar to the B6 chassis, would look pretty slick.

Love it.... Let me order it right now.

Can you show us how each color looks installed in the B6.... I'm leaning towards black.

Question, what is the easiest way to get the existing balls out? i have not been able to do it and just boughta new set to tune faster.

Protek shock shaft pliers are the bees knees.

+1 I love the protek shock pliers.

Thank you! Yeah since I have the laydown in, I put the rear shocks in front of the arms, but had the long eyelets in. Changed to the long ones and now the ride height is about 23. All good.

I just used these to remove pivot balls from the eyelets (and to hold the shock shafts). Totally worth the money.

Glad you got it figured out.

Yeah, those pliers are the best tool I've bought in awhile. Right next to my MIP hex drivers and Hitatchi cordless screwdriver.

Yep, Next week I'll take some pictures of them installed.

B6D laydown - any tire recommendations for SCVRC track? (high bite clay if I'm not mistaken..)

From their facebook page, it seems like they run slicks, but I don't know for sure. It's a track I'd like to go to, so I'm curious well.