Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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#2223
you increase you chance of breaking a stud off in the aluminum hub or camber block. The plastic hubs are fine. If you go aluminum, I would get the schelle ones. They have a replaceable top piece. But... when I ran the schelle hubs on my b5m, they freed up the rear and added steering to the car. If you are fine with that, then go for it. I think they are due out at the end of this month.
I've never been a fan of the feel of alloy hubs, nor the added weight.
#2228
#2232
I think you mean "handful with the laydown car", right? That's what I'm finding with my B6D with laydown -- it's great for about 20 min. after the track has been watered, but if it's dry at all...
#2233
Tech Champion
iTrader: (170)
No. I mean handful with the standup car...meaning the laydown is going to be an even bigger handful. I've been to that track and when it dries out and you still try to run the "preferred" tire you better hold on, or wait for the water. The track doesn't have a large window of consistency.
#2234
Tech Rookie
I had the same problem and now wondering if I did the wrong thing: I left the horn off 90* and lengthened the steering link to 3mm (making sure to center the washers on the link) and left trim at 0... I have a lower end futaba and dont have "sub-trim". My reasoning is that I will still have the same throw in both directions without having to alter EPA's asymmetrically. The toe was dead 0* with the steering turnbuckles at kit length... Anyone care to comment on my strategy?
EDIT: YES, I left the horn leaning towards "passenger side" to accommodate the longer steering link length.
EDIT: YES, I left the horn leaning towards "passenger side" to accommodate the longer steering link length.
Hi Guys, I know I am new here, but would anybody mind taking the time to answer my question? I just want to make sure my reasoning is sound. (or not)
Thanks in advance!