I am really interested in picking up a kit, but don't have a lathe to do all these corrections to the kit. Is this normal to have to modify factory parts to get everything perfect? Not trying to bad mouth the kit. I really would like to purchase one but don't have the patients to have to modify something. In my opinion, the kit should come with appropriate parts that fit correctly and not have to buy other parts to make fitment of parts correct. Please tell me I am wrong in making this observation from what I have read. Maybe I jumping to conclusions.

How much cooler is the motor running with the heat sink plate? Did you take measurements before and after installation of the plate? I think it's an great idea if really works well.

Well, I built my kit per instructions and It drives excellent.... I only put a 4mm spacer between the motor and bulhead to get the chassis balanced. That's all...
So did my brother and a friend...

No need to modify anything.
Get the advised esc and the spacer and your good to go.

I didn`t modify anything.
I have driven the car as standard en its good.

Awesome that their are no modifications required. Who sells this spacer.

I am too lazy for pictures. We'll see.

Hopefully I'll get to test the car tomorrow.

What size pinion?

I measured the revs and the Buri is at about 60% of my Capricorn, which is on pace on our track. My motor in the Buri is only a 1750kv, so I think a faster motor might help, but I will still have to change the gear ratio. Not sure how much but I guess we'll see.

start of with the 14 pinion. Maybe if the esc is sensored you might go to timing it.
But I`v driven the car on the Mach demo day (its on youtube by the way) and the car was on par with the suspensioned cars. Thomas was kind enough to put a 16 pinion on the motor though which had more speed. Car drove really good and I had good fun. Motor didn`t get hot or anything.

These are normal questions, but they tend to show some lack of understanding of this hobby. I am willing to bet London to a brick you can't buy a car at this moment on the market for love or money that won't need some work or tuning.

What I do is fit for my own take on the hobby. I regard the box kit as a proposition from a manufacturer, not a definitive solution. A start to a journey, not a destination. As a consequence, my cars are never kit standard. That doesn't mean others need to follow. I have the tools to do it the way I like it, most of the time things can be done with less effort. Sometimes, modifications are necessary though and I share to tip others or increase the pool of suggestions for the manufacturer.

This car is in its infancy, and I like that. I like its philosophy and mission. I see a challenge I want to undertake and hopefully contribute to its development.

Not to start a war, but I have a great understanding of the hobby. Been driving RC for around 25 years. I used to design RC helicopters too for a manufacturer that is no longer in business. I used to fight with the owner because parts didn't fit perfect and didn't want customers calling and complaining. I am very meticulous and want my cars to be perfect. I don't want to have to grind on things when they should come QC'd by the manufacturer. I can say my Mugen offroad and GT cars have required no modifications. Fit and finish are great and yes they require tuning for each track but not modification of a factory part. I want this car to be successful and think it will be a fun class to drive. Otherwise I would not be asking questions and looking at purchasing a kit for a class that doesn't exist at my track. I just know other drivers at my track that would pitch a fit if they bought a kit and had to modify things. This would not help the reputation of the brand. It only takes one negative person to spoil the reputation of a product. I am sure Thomas is doing his best to make an outstanding product.

Ha! Of course he did.

Sorry, couldn't refrain.

Relax. Parts fit perfectly on the Buri.

But currently there is no class for these cars anywhere. There may be, if the cars are distributed and supported, but as far as I know there are big manufacturers who don't have support in the US, so I wouldn't bank on it.

Like I said, my cars all required modifications over the past 30 years or so, but that's just me, like I said. Nothing is perfect, ever. And I guess it depends (like I said, again) on what you want to get out of this hobby.

I have found Xray parts (alloy) that missed a thread (70$ a pop steering knuckles), I have found Tamiya chassies with misaligned holes (90$ to replace), I have found Yokomo drivetrain parts with wobble, I have found Kawada spurs with the wrong pitch, Schumacher kits with missing parts, and so on. None of that makes these manufacturers bad at their job. It's a fact of life. (this is not to mention the recent Tesla driver who found some problems with his car he can no longer complain about). Like I said. Nothing is ever perfect. You can learn to fix things, and get on with your life, or throw a fit and kick your toys like a brat.

Either way, if you throw a fit for that, you're in the wrong hobby (or on the wrong planet).

I also didn't modify the car, and it drives good. I ran it this week at a tiny 1/10th scale electric track and the car got around pretty well. I changed the caster to the front position to get more low speed steering through the tiny hairpins. The motor ran alot cooler because the track was to short to run full throttle.

@invrtd, I wrote a build report on my website. It is in dutch but there is a picture gallery so you can see all the parts and how they are fitted.

I went back to my normal track today and ran the car again with 16/55 gearing and the speed is close to that of the nitro cars.

I can't wait for some to arrive over here in Northern California. At this time the cost to get one in my hands is more then the top of the line 1/8 nitro. I will have one but I will wait it out a while.

Pan cars are making a small comeback here in the USA. We have a good selection of pro10, a few 2wd nitro's and one or two manufactures are making 1/8 electric and conversions kits available. It won't be long until someone imports this fine design in the USA. Maybe I should look into this.

Yes, there is talk in the US about someone importing the cars. Only Thomas can tell you who has contacted him. I have heard about someone in FL and possibly someone in North West too importing the cars.

I have priced this car out and it's just shy off 400 dollars to get a kit to the US. That's about 250 less than a nitro car and you can get motor and controller for 150-250 depending on brand. Stepping into GP nitro is at least 1000 bucks with motor and pipe.
I run GT not GP and want to step into GP without breaking the bank and allow my son to have a car to drive that is GP style. He is 12 and will pick it up super fast. I like to be able to control his power with the transmitter throttle EPA.

I must have had my $$ to euro formula wrong. Good to know, I'll check it out on Monday.

Dudes, just get one, you won't regret it. And if you live close by, just order both at the same address and have one of you relay the second to the other if this makes financial sense.