yes.

And when it is started leave the ignitor on and try to give some throttle to bring in some heat before removing the ignitor.

Is there a local hobby shop or race track you could visit for in-person help?

They should be able to show you different break-in methods and teach you how to tune as well

Ok I'll try that thank you

No, sadly there is no hobby shop near me to help me out, but is there maybe any place I could call?

Ok ok, I got the car to move a little but when I take the igniter out it will immediately shut off. This means I need to turn th low speed needle, but I don't know where that is located. I'm pretty sure of this because the setting is to rich and there's to much fuel which makes sense because it used a full tank in about 5 minutes. Correct me if I'm wrong but what I need to do is locate the low speed needle and turn it in? Or should I do something with the high speed needle? Please let me know I am almost done with this thank you!!

-Micah222

If you still running the motor in I would only touch the HSN (screw 3 on manual) like has been suggested. Apart from that maybe wind in the idle screw a little to get the engine to idle a little higher to keep it running (Screw 4 on manual).

Engine manual

So I should tune the high speed needle, and open the carburetor a little more? Also which way should I turn the HSN?

To lean you are turning clockwise and winding the screw in (closing the tap). I would only recommend a little adjustment as you don't want to damage the new engine by starving it of fuel or getting too hot.

Lean the HSN (turn it clockwise) only just enough to keep the engine from choking to death as soon as you open the throttle a tiny bit. It should bog down badly when you try to rev it up, for at least the first tank of fuel, because the first tank of fuel flushes particulates out of the engine that were left behind after manufacturing and assembly. It doesn't matter how expensive the engine is, there's always SOME particulates left behind, and of course during the first run the engine will be generating a bunch more from parts scrubbing together for the first time. You want as much oil as you can possibly get to bind-up those particulates and ensure they exit the engine without scraping anything. If you need to increase the idle speed a little bit to keep the engine idling for that first tank, that's fine; you can use the idle screw to make this adjustment, or you can adjust the throttle trim on the radio. During the first tank, you want to rev-up the engine a little every few seconds so the engine isn't running the same speed for the entire tank, and also to help the engine cough out any excess fuel and oil that's building up inside so it doesn't choke to death. Don't expect the car to actually move very fast -- or move at all -- that's not the point yet. You won't get to rev-up the engine significantly until you've put at least 5 tanks of fuel through it. I recommend having a nice electric car you can drive around after each tank of fuel, so you're not tempted to rush the process.

After you get it to run for an entire tank of fuel, you can start slowly leaning the HSN. During that first tank you might see temperatures around 160°F at the glowplug, that's generally what I see, and then after that try to keep the engine around 200°F, checking the temperature every couple minutes for the first few tanks. The temperature will spike quickly when you rev-up the engine during break-in, and you want a lot of room for the temperature to spike without damaging anything. You can always choose to run an engine hotter later in its life, but if you run it hot and then realize you need to run it significantly cooler, you pretty much always have to replace the piston and sleeve. There is no piston ring, so the combustion seal is EXTREMELY dependent on how the piston and sleeve fit together at their usual operating temperature -- if they break-in at a high temperature, they will only seal properly at that same high temperature.

After each tank of fuel, rotate the flywheel until the piston moves loosely, meaning it's not jammed up against the top of the sleeve. That way the sleeve can cool off without the piston getting in the way and deforming it.