Oh, don't give me credit for the idea. I was just passing on a cool idea somebody else had.

The stock plastic D block is the same as the aluminum D block using the center dot pill. Just use critical thinking to figure out changes in toe/anti-squat based off that.

Just think about it a little more objectively.

The .5 pills make a certain amount of change, whether it's on the c or the d. The 1 pills make a larger change.

They mount the fan with double sided tape.

http://eos.redrc.net/2016/04/chassis...pencer-rivkin/

What is the part that is holding the fan? I need 2 them for my 2 kits thank you sir

Those are b5m servo mounts. If you want the fan away from the motor more, use b6 mounts.

Looks like a B5m servo bracket

And you know why? The front suspension was collapsing more than the rear, now with the longer camber link the rear collapses as much as the front. It's like Usain Bolt having a sore knee so the medic would bang the good knee with a hammer so they're both hurting

That's the big problem with setup, which end is causing us trouble? Which way to go?

In the end, removing a shim (-1mm for a start) from the front bulkhead would be much better than a longer camber link. BTW, I've handled and analysed dozens of cars and most of them suffer from front suspension collapsing because of low RC height and generally too soft a spring too, that's why most tend to run too soft a spring and lower(or more roll) roll centers in the rear, compounding the issue.

Hope it helps!

"Lengthening rear camber links ".. You get + camber. Shortening it... You get - camber.

Thanks, makes sense - will have to go away and have a think about those comments and get my head around it and try a different set up.

Well, you obviously need to reset your static camber after adjusting the length. The length adjusts the camber gain as the suspension compresses, but you would want to set your static camber the same as before the change.

http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

look in "setup guide" for info on camber links/link length and what does what.

I have other links on the first page that make for a good reading.

Making my way through the build and everything has been going very well. Kudos to Associated for making a pretty killer manual for this car. One problem I have run into though is my steering knuckles are pretty tight inside the c blocks. Did any of you run into this and did you loosen them up with a 3mm reamer?

Of course. I usually install everything in the buggy ... Drop it like 12 inches down to my setup board then ... Then measure.

yeah, I had this. It went away after a couple packs on the track.

When he says "lengthen the camber link" he's talking about moving the inner ballstud towards a more inner hole (or the outer ballstud to a more outward hole). And then obviously lengthening the actual link to keep the same camber.

He's not just lengthening the link -- that would be referred to as adding "X degrees of camber".