Yes. Not a fan for my track conditions. I think you need to be on a REALLLLLLLY blown out track. Don't forget to run oils in the 700-750 range as well when you try them.

Thanks. Our track is always dry, slick, and very blown out. I've always felt like the 4X1.8s had too much pack and the car gets kicked around a lot where some other brand cars don't.

then definitely give them a try. Illias told me that he runs 700 front and 750 rear. Mark from our region (mid atlantic) runs 675 fr and 750 rear. I tried 600/650. I'll give them another try later in the summer with thicker oils because I did NOT like them with that thin of an oil.

got to tune the car on saturday.. went up in shock oil weight in the rear to aid in the rear 'bouncing' on landing and through the rougher areas of the track.. also changed the rear outer pin setting to 2 dots middle and that calmed the rear end down too..

I need to go up in the front shock oil weight as well I think.. really, really like this car and how it responds to setup tweaks.

Do SCT410.3 body mounts work w/the EB48.3's shock towers?

Yes

Really ? I tried it once I think the rear worked but the front was to wide

I had the exact same experience racing on a super high bite track this past weekend. Box stock setup, including springs.....car was very loose when I would hit the brakes to enter a turn. Also, once it started to step out, there was very little that could be done to stop it.

I tried lowering rear ride height to 27, reduced droop to 116 / 131, took 1 deg of anti-squat out, and tried 7K center diff.....each change made one at a time. The reduced droop, and anti-squat seemed to have the best effect, but it was still doing it at the end of the day. The next thing that I was going to look at was going to a longer rear camber link.

Aside from the loose rear end off power, I was very happy with the car. I'm very curious to see what others suggest to resolve the problem we were having....

So weird I have the exact opposite problem on a dusty low traction track. The rear won't rotate enough and I end up pushing in power cause I can't get it to come around enough on initial turn in.

your answer is in your statement. Dusty low traction track. Your front end isn't digging in.

Pay attention to your car on the track when it's happening. Focus on what input you are giving the car. Are you hard on the brakes prior to the turn? Are you coasting into the turn? Are you on power entering the turn?

All of these things make a big difference.
You may need to adjust droop to get more weight transfer.
You may need to change diff oils to get more on-power or off-power steering.
You may need a different camber link to allow more or less roll.

Really focus on the chassis when watching the car and what you're doing prior to that turn, entering the turn, and through the turn.

Got ya. I usually coast into turns as that's when I get the most steering but it's still wider then I would like. If I slow down and have to get on the throttle mid turn it pushes terrible. I already backed off the droop screws , removed sway bars and went long camber link in front and high on the tower, rear most ackerman. It helped allot but it still pushes. Diffs are 575 I basically need every ounce of front traction I can get. I realize it's the slippery track but I'm getting there. Blockades and impact tires work best here

I would increase the front diff oil and reduce the center and rear and go with shortest link up front. To me, the way your diffs are set up, you are going to get more rear wheel push on and off power. I maybe would try 774, 753. The short front link lets the car roll more up front so it will dig in/grip more in the turns. I've run ptrc 775, 774, 996 and 10/10/7 on our dusty blown out track an I actually like the higher diff oil. I seem to have more control.

Oh wow I always thought a long link let it roll more ,duh I'll try the short link first.

print out this setup. http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...ern%20Nats.pdf

Go over your car and see how different you are compared to it. This setup works amazingly well for me and everyone of my friends who has tried it.

Also keep in mind that the team setups use PT Racing Oils, not AE or TLR. They are significantly thinner. close to 2k thinner on diff fluids. So 7-7-5 PT is closer to 5-5-3 AE.

My question on Joes set up is when coming from stock box is it good to make so many changes? Also if I make all those changes on link locations do I need different length links and turnbuckles or will the stock adjust to what is needed? Basically what all is needed to make the change? If I need to make an order it wont be here before my first race Saturday so what adjustments would you recommend till I can order?