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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 06-14-2016, 05:23 PM   #1801
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My question on Joes set up is when coming from stock box is it good to make so many changes? Also if I make all those changes on link locations do I need different length links and turnbuckles or will the stock adjust to what is needed? Basically what all is needed to make the change? If I need to make an order it wont be here before my first race Saturday so what adjustments would you recommend till I can order?
All of the links and such in the kit will be fine for all setups, but will need to be adjusted to the new lengths to have proper settings. This is generally just done by measurements of wheels though (camber and front toe), rather than by measuring the actual length of the link.
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Old 06-14-2016, 05:40 PM   #1802
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Just looking at the front camber links I feel like if I used Joe's positions I would end up with +camber and have to turn links way in to work it out. Just seems that the link would break threw since the space for stock is only 24mm..
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Old 06-14-2016, 05:54 PM   #1803
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Just looking at the front camber links I feel like if I used Joe's positions I would end up with +camber and have to turn links way in to work it out. Just seems that the link would break threw since the space for stock is only 24mm..
I run that link position with no problem. I can shorten them enough to get 3-4 degree negative camber without them breaking through.
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:24 PM   #1804
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Good to know thank you. I'm not sure I want to do a complete set up change since I've seen and tested what I have and my track is 3 hours away. May just do diff change and link position in rear till after my first race..
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:13 PM   #1805
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print out this setup. http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...ern%20Nats.pdf

Go over your car and see how different you are compared to it. This setup works amazingly well for me and everyone of my friends who has tried it.

Also keep in mind that the team setups use PT Racing Oils, not AE or TLR. They are significantly thinner. close to 2k thinner on diff fluids. So 7-7-5 PT is closer to 5-5-3 AE.
Is a 13t pinion a typo? Lutz, and most others are running 19t.....should it maybe have been 18t?
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:15 PM   #1806
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I had the exact same experience racing on a super high bite track this past weekend. Box stock setup, including springs.....car was very loose when I would hit the brakes to enter a turn. Also, once it started to step out, there was very little that could be done to stop it.

I tried lowering rear ride height to 27, reduced droop to 116 / 131, took 1 deg of anti-squat out, and tried 7K center diff.....each change made one at a time. The reduced droop, and anti-squat seemed to have the best effect, but it was still doing it at the end of the day. The next thing that I was going to look at was going to a longer rear camber link.

Aside from the loose rear end off power, I was very happy with the car. I'm very curious to see what others suggest to resolve the problem we were having....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
print out this setup. http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...ern%20Nats.pdf

Go over your car and see how different you are compared to it. This setup works amazingly well for me and everyone of my friends who has tried it.

Also keep in mind that the team setups use PT Racing Oils, not AE or TLR. They are significantly thinner. close to 2k thinner on diff fluids. So 7-7-5 PT is closer to 5-5-3 AE.
Bob, any thoughts on what I was having issue with?
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:23 PM   #1807
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Originally Posted by RcJunky76 View Post
Just looking at the front camber links I feel like if I used Joe's positions I would end up with +camber and have to turn links way in to work it out. Just seems that the link would break threw since the space for stock is only 24mm..
I run Joe's setup and, for me, to get the proper camber up front, I feel my links are about bottomed out. For a single link, I would tighten one end as tight as I could get it without pushing thru and then do the other side of the link. That way, both ends of the link bottom out at the same time.
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:35 PM   #1808
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Is a 13t pinion a typo? Lutz, and most others are running 19t.....should it maybe have been 18t?
Typo. I asked Joe and he said he normally runs 19t just like everyone else.
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Old 06-15-2016, 07:01 AM   #1809
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Typo. I asked Joe and he said he normally runs 19t just like everyone else.
Thanks......that's what I was thinking.
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Old 06-15-2016, 07:10 AM   #1810
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Is a 13t pinion a typo? Lutz, and most others are running 19t.....should it maybe have been 18t?
Yeah I'm sure it is. We run 18 or 19 depending on the length of the straight.
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Old 06-15-2016, 07:13 AM   #1811
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Originally Posted by RcJunky76 View Post
Just looking at the front camber links I feel like if I used Joe's positions I would end up with +camber and have to turn links way in to work it out. Just seems that the link would break threw since the space for stock is only 24mm..
The length in the manual is the length required for you to get the desired -2 or -3 degrees camber (I can't remember off the top of my head) for the stock camber locations. Unless you're running those stock locations and camber settings, ignore that number. Put the links in the proper place and use a camber gauge to measure your camber.

Cliff Notes:
if you're not running stock camber links and camber settings, ignore the length measurements
if you're running anything OTHER than stock links, use a camber gauge and measure accordingly.

One note, always measure your front camber with your radio and car turned on and wheels centered.
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Old 06-15-2016, 07:33 AM   #1812
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Bob, any thoughts on what I was having issue with?
I haven't run this car on high grip, but I would try the following:

If your car is getting loose under braking WHILE GOING STRAIGHT, then I wouldn't touch any camber links. This is likely a weight transfer issue. Stiffen up the front (heavier oil and thicker spring). We have all switched from kit springs (black) to Pinks, which are one step stiffer. I would definitely do that and consider Green too if the grip is high enough.

If your car is getting loose in the middle of the turn when you hit the brakes, then I would also do the front spring and oil change, but I would also go up in diff oils in all 3 diffs. I would also consider leaning the rear shocks down more (go in one hole on the tower). You'll give up forward bite but gain side bite. If grip is high enough, the forward bite loss is not an issue.

You can also play with thicker sway bars on high grip surfaces too. Make that your last thing to try after you feel you got close.

So try the following in this order
harder front spring (pink or green)
thicker front shock oil (50sct thicker to start, then adjust after driving)
thicker diff oils (maybe 10-10-7 if grip is really high)
lay the rear shocks down some

If you do all of these things and still find yourself struggling, THEN we need to look at roll centers.
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Old 06-15-2016, 12:17 PM   #1813
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The length in the manual is the length required for you to get the desired -2 or -3 degrees camber (I can't remember off the top of my head) for the stock camber locations. Unless you're running those stock locations and camber settings, ignore that number. Put the links in the proper place and use a camber gauge to measure your camber.

Cliff Notes:
if you're not running stock camber links and camber settings, ignore the length measurements
if you're running anything OTHER than stock links, use a camber gauge and measure accordingly.

One note, always measure your front camber with your radio and car turned on and wheels centered.
Just to add, even if running stock, use a camber gauge. It is usually more accurate. I take measurements with car and radio on.
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Old 06-15-2016, 02:16 PM   #1814
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Just to add, even if running stock, use a camber gauge. It is usually more accurate. I take measurements with car and radio on.
yeah this is true. I need to stop just assuming that everyone knows these things
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Old 06-15-2016, 03:21 PM   #1815
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
I haven't run this car on high grip, but I would try the following:

If your car is getting loose under braking WHILE GOING STRAIGHT, then I wouldn't touch any camber links. This is likely a weight transfer issue. Stiffen up the front (heavier oil and thicker spring). We have all switched from kit springs (black) to Pinks, which are one step stiffer. I would definitely do that and consider Green too if the grip is high enough.

If your car is getting loose in the middle of the turn when you hit the brakes, then I would also do the front spring and oil change, but I would also go up in diff oils in all 3 diffs. I would also consider leaning the rear shocks down more (go in one hole on the tower). You'll give up forward bite but gain side bite. If grip is high enough, the forward bite loss is not an issue.

You can also play with thicker sway bars on high grip surfaces too. Make that your last thing to try after you feel you got close.

So try the following in this order
harder front spring (pink or green)
thicker front shock oil (50sct thicker to start, then adjust after driving)
thicker diff oils (maybe 10-10-7 if grip is really high)
lay the rear shocks down some

If you do all of these things and still find yourself struggling, THEN we need to look at roll centers.
Thanks for the suggestions.....I'll try them in that order.

And yes, it was mainly corner entry. Mid-turn, to exit, any stepping out was mainly due to a little "whiskey throttle". I also just switched from Tekin, and I'm trying to dial in my new Orion Vortex R8.1 esc and motor.....getting a little abrupt power delivery on initial throttle delivery wasn't helping for smooth corner exits.
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