2991Likes1/12 forum
05-31-2016 | 10:44 AM
No argument from me on limiting sets .. as with anything new, you start with something and then refine. MHIC was a start, and we choose not to limit sets since it was the 1st large event in the US to try spec tires. As things catch on, and people warm to the idea, limiting sets might be an option. I got a chance to race in the WCICS series up in Canada this year, and they don't limit sets and there is zero drama, complaints or negative feedback.
Cost - They don't cost more for the average racer. The price offered at MHIC was less than the average racer could buy them for. If you have a deal with a manufacturer that does not offer spec tires then yes, you might be paying more than 0 dollars. But that is YOUR issue not the average person. The fact that you only need to buy 1 Compound makes it cheaper.
Durability - If you run 1-runs, they are good for 1-run, end of story no matter the compound. For larger cuts, the feedback on tire wear has been positive (good to great tire wear on black carpet). There are numerous comments on this thread and the other related thread that you can competitively run 2-3 sets including practice for an event. Did you not see the comment from RedBullFiXX .. 2 sets of specs for the Birds all week? I don't know what else you can ask for?
Equality - The fact that you mentioned - Blue/Green/Yellow (3 Compounds) is the difference. And what about Pink and Green Fronts - you know those are popular now too right? I actually like Magenta fronts as well on the new rug. That's not EQUAL. One Compound for all makes it Equal.
No need to ask for compound advice for the new/average/pro racer ... its called Spec.
Cost - They don't cost more for the average racer. The price offered at MHIC was less than the average racer could buy them for. If you have a deal with a manufacturer that does not offer spec tires then yes, you might be paying more than 0 dollars. But that is YOUR issue not the average person. The fact that you only need to buy 1 Compound makes it cheaper.
Durability - If you run 1-runs, they are good for 1-run, end of story no matter the compound. For larger cuts, the feedback on tire wear has been positive (good to great tire wear on black carpet). There are numerous comments on this thread and the other related thread that you can competitively run 2-3 sets including practice for an event. Did you not see the comment from RedBullFiXX .. 2 sets of specs for the Birds all week? I don't know what else you can ask for?
Equality - The fact that you mentioned - Blue/Green/Yellow (3 Compounds) is the difference. And what about Pink and Green Fronts - you know those are popular now too right? I actually like Magenta fronts as well on the new rug. That's not EQUAL. One Compound for all makes it Equal.
No need to ask for compound advice for the new/average/pro racer ... its called Spec.
Just leave it alone every race this year had good turnouts in 17.5 but one went from 60 to 25 because of spec tire. Just leave it be. Don't try to fix something that is not broke if guys want to run specs run them others don't like them
05-31-2016 | 11:27 AM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,710
From: St. Louis
No argument from me on limiting sets .. as with anything new, you start with something and then refine. MHIC was a start, and we choose not to limit sets since it was the 1st large event in the US to try spec tires. As things catch on, and people warm to the idea, limiting sets might be an option. I got a chance to race in the WCICS series up in Canada this year, and they don't limit sets and there is zero drama, complaints or negative feedback.
Cost - They don't cost more for the average racer. The price offered at MHIC was less than the average racer could buy them for. If you have a deal with a manufacturer that does not offer spec tires then yes, you might be paying more than 0 dollars. But that is YOUR issue not the average person. The fact that you only need to buy 1 Compound makes it cheaper.
Durability - If you run 1-runs, they are good for 1-run, end of story no matter the compound. For larger cuts, the feedback on tire wear has been positive (good to great tire wear on black carpet). There are numerous comments on this thread and the other related thread that you can competitively run 2-3 sets including practice for an event. Did you not see the comment from RedBullFiXX .. 2 sets of specs for the Birds all week? I don't know what else you can ask for?
Equality - The fact that you mentioned - Blue/Green/Yellow (3 Compounds) is the difference. And what about Pink and Green Fronts - you know those are popular now too right? I actually like Magenta fronts as well on the new rug. That's not EQUAL. One Compound for all makes it Equal.
No need to ask for compound advice for the new/average/pro racer ... its called Spec.
Cost - They don't cost more for the average racer. The price offered at MHIC was less than the average racer could buy them for. If you have a deal with a manufacturer that does not offer spec tires then yes, you might be paying more than 0 dollars. But that is YOUR issue not the average person. The fact that you only need to buy 1 Compound makes it cheaper.
Durability - If you run 1-runs, they are good for 1-run, end of story no matter the compound. For larger cuts, the feedback on tire wear has been positive (good to great tire wear on black carpet). There are numerous comments on this thread and the other related thread that you can competitively run 2-3 sets including practice for an event. Did you not see the comment from RedBullFiXX .. 2 sets of specs for the Birds all week? I don't know what else you can ask for?
Equality - The fact that you mentioned - Blue/Green/Yellow (3 Compounds) is the difference. And what about Pink and Green Fronts - you know those are popular now too right? I actually like Magenta fronts as well on the new rug. That's not EQUAL. One Compound for all makes it Equal.
No need to ask for compound advice for the new/average/pro racer ... its called Spec.
Cost- https://www.amainhobbies.com/1-12-pa...s-trucks/c2676
What tires are the most expensive on the page? If you gave a great deal on these tires at a race, what kind of deal COULD you of offered for the regular tires? Remember, I used to own a hobby shop and track for 5 years, I know the margins, lol.
Oh, and by the way, I have no sponsor, never have had one, just good friends. I guess I never have been good enough, lol. I still pay for tires.
Durability- I get the same if not better wear from XM and XH compounds, that are cheaper.
Equality- You got me, I like tire choice along with other settings for myself.
I can give it more time and see how it goes, but I fear running off the great crowds we had this year from the change, if it goes to more races.
05-31-2016 | 01:03 PM
I hate to say this, but I saw this coming when CRC released rubber tires for WGT and saw the push in BRL for rubber to replace the spec compound foams. Both of those are the biggest users of the spec compound and if they go away from foam, the manufacturers need somewhere to sell it.
Which really killed WGT btw...Might as well start running old silver can motors and bolink cars lol.
I didn't mind the spec tires on the 12th at MHIC. But I ended up running 13.5. I didn't have $5000 in motor parts to compete in 17.5 like the other guys did. In fact a lot of 17.5 cars were faster than a lot of 13.5 cars. Even on the straights.
05-31-2016 | 02:20 PM
Cost- https://www.amainhobbies.com/1-12-pa...s-trucks/c2676
What tires are the most expensive on the page? If you gave a great deal on these tires at a race, what kind of deal COULD you of offered for the regular tires? Remember, I used to own a hobby shop and track for 5 years, I know the margins, lol.
Oh, and by the way, I have no sponsor, never have had one, just good friends. I guess I never have been good enough, lol. I still pay for tires.
Durability- I get the same if not better wear from XM and XH compounds, that are cheaper.
Equality- You got me, I like tire choice along with other settings for myself.
I can give it more time and see how it goes, but I fear running off the great crowds we had this year from the change, if it goes to more races.
What tires are the most expensive on the page? If you gave a great deal on these tires at a race, what kind of deal COULD you of offered for the regular tires? Remember, I used to own a hobby shop and track for 5 years, I know the margins, lol.
Oh, and by the way, I have no sponsor, never have had one, just good friends. I guess I never have been good enough, lol. I still pay for tires.
Durability- I get the same if not better wear from XM and XH compounds, that are cheaper.
Equality- You got me, I like tire choice along with other settings for myself.
I can give it more time and see how it goes, but I fear running off the great crowds we had this year from the change, if it goes to more races.
Stormer Hobbies 10.95/11.95 for any CRC compound (including specs)
http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...umb=on&smode=0
Ulti Tires - 11.99/13.99 for XM
https://ultitires.com/index.php?rout...th=173_174_176
https://ultitires.com/index.php?rout...th=173_178_180
One pair vs One pair - specs are cheaper
And if you want to go for the 3-pack of Ulti's every time you buy tires then your point does hold up - by a total cost savings of $0.41 per set ($0.12 savings per fronts, $0.29 savings per rears)
Now considering I only need to buy 1 compound (purple stripe) vs a choice of XS, XM, XH and some JH perhaps. Since you never know what will be the fastest of your choices at any given race, you probably would bring multiple in each compound so you could have at least 2-3 sets in any combination. I feel pretty comfortable saying I'd be spending less $$$ using specs.
Last edited by ByteStream; 05-31-2016 at 02:34 PM.
05-31-2016 | 02:25 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,799
From: New Bern, N.C.
One thing that I've learned in my 25 years+ of racing 1/12th scale.....the fastest guys will always be dramatically faster than most. That has always been the case no matter the rules, no matter the equipment , no matter what. It was true with t-bars, with crappy 1200 mahr ni-cad round cells, and with closed end bell brushed motors. It was true with handout 27 turn motors and better round batteries. It was true with brushless motors, with boost, with blinky, with lipos, with anything. Some guys always have and always will find ways to best exploit the equipment of the time. And some guys just flat drive better than the rest of us. No need to fret too much over the rules. Regardless, the same guys will always find ways to run up front. The real key (IMO) is to make the racing enjoyable and reasonably affordable for "the rest of us". Going to a spec tire should do exactly that. Personally, I'll be glad to remove the search for the absolute fastest tire from the equation. I'm fully supportive of going with spec tires for 1/12th.
Which really killed WGT btw...Might as well start running old silver can motors and bolink cars lol.
I didn't mind the spec tires on the 12th at MHIC. But I ended up running 13.5. I didn't have $5000 in motor parts to compete in 17.5 like the other guys did. In fact a lot of 17.5 cars were faster than a lot of 13.5 cars. Even on the straights.
I didn't mind the spec tires on the 12th at MHIC. But I ended up running 13.5. I didn't have $5000 in motor parts to compete in 17.5 like the other guys did. In fact a lot of 17.5 cars were faster than a lot of 13.5 cars. Even on the straights.
05-31-2016 | 02:42 PM
... The real key (IMO) is to make the racing enjoyable and reasonably affordable for "the rest of us". Going to a spec tire should do exactly that. Personally, I'll be glad to remove the search for the absolute fastest tire from the equation. I'm fully supportive of going with spec tires for 1/12th.
06-01-2016 | 04:24 AM
I am not a fan of spec tire in 1/12, I would also say 1/12 is one of the most healthy classes and does not need a fix.
In that same argument If the tire was spec I would like to see limits on tire qty for each competitor. If you lock the compound up, Having drivers manage there tire wear and usage through the event becomes a perk!
In that same argument If the tire was spec I would like to see limits on tire qty for each competitor. If you lock the compound up, Having drivers manage there tire wear and usage through the event becomes a perk!
06-01-2016 | 08:42 AM
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 193
From: Regina, Canada
How should one true a tyre here? I think I remember someone telling me the front should be thinner, or roughly 2mm than the rear?
For low grip I ran, I think 47mm rear and 45. Medium I believe much thinner than that.
Can someone comment on that?
For low grip I ran, I think 47mm rear and 45. Medium I believe much thinner than that.
Can someone comment on that?
06-02-2016 | 08:56 PM
It's all about weight distribution, if your car will roll or pick up the inside rear wheel in the corners you need to get weight forward in the car, either by going inline or leaving the car transverse and running the battery in a forward position.
06-04-2016 | 06:58 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 300
From: Western Sydney
hi guys, I would just like to thank the people that provide feedback or advice on this thread, you have been a big help to me in my quest to get my 1/12th hooked up, the 12th scale information source also was quite helpful so thanks again guys,
my car is a serpent s120 ltx , i have only run this car on a large outdoor asphalt track , rear grip has always been the problem but the last time i drove the car it was fully hooked up ! i put this down to 3 things mainly
- this thread improving my setup
- the reduction in power from 4.5t to 10.5 t blinky
- turned steering from 55 % to 40 %
the top speed was well down, probably similar to a good 21.5 t 1/10 tc , but the steering on this car on such a large track ( approx 60 m straight ) was unbelievable and i could plant the throttle thru the sweeper.
next for a little boost and turbo
cheers
my car is a serpent s120 ltx , i have only run this car on a large outdoor asphalt track , rear grip has always been the problem but the last time i drove the car it was fully hooked up ! i put this down to 3 things mainly
- this thread improving my setup
- the reduction in power from 4.5t to 10.5 t blinky
- turned steering from 55 % to 40 %
the top speed was well down, probably similar to a good 21.5 t 1/10 tc , but the steering on this car on such a large track ( approx 60 m straight ) was unbelievable and i could plant the throttle thru the sweeper.
next for a little boost and turbo
cheers
06-08-2016 | 06:43 PM
What wires do you guy normally use for 1/12th?
I have seen some skinny 16awg .
Aren't they too skinny for the power they are handlng?
**Assumption based
I personally prefer to use 14awg.
Enough flexibility to not mess with the suspension and get me a clean wiring down
I had a used car that used 12 awg and i could barely squeeze the shell down onto the car
I have seen some skinny 16awg .
Aren't they too skinny for the power they are handlng?
**Assumption based
I personally prefer to use 14awg.
Enough flexibility to not mess with the suspension and get me a clean wiring down
I had a used car that used 12 awg and i could barely squeeze the shell down onto the car