OK I just checked I'm on 5.0.

Good information thank you sir.

I wonder if I can update to 5.1.1 on my note 3

RX8 gen 2, hotwire 2.0, when I hook up my android phone it says "not supported" tells me to update my app or update the esc on a computer. My app is up to date. I did update to the latest version on my computer and updated the esc. I can do all the settings on my computer, but when I hook it up to my phone, it still shows, not supported. BTW, I have several tekin esc's, RS's, Rsx's and 3 RX8's. I can communicate with all of them except this RX8 gen 2 with my phone. Any thoughts??

HW version on my android is 6.11.0

My Fairly new Gen2 RX8 decided it was suicidal this weekend.
3rd lap around the track and all I see is smoke coming from a 1K rig😳
The RX8 melted all of the posts off of it initially taking out my CC BEC, Servo, and Rx.
Has anyone else experienced this happening or did I just draw the short straw?
I bought this about two months ago from my lhs.
I've got 4 more buggys with Very similar setups that I've been running quite a while but now I'm sketchy about even plugging them in.

Well I went and bought a new phone yesterday. In up getting a Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge.

And guess what?
The data logging still does not work.


Anyone from Tekin will there be a fix? Or is it what it is.

Thank you for your time

Can the Rx8 perform "sensor testing" similar to the other Tekin Esc's?

Yes, exactly the same on the RS, RSX and RX8 models.

Awesome, thank you!

Running a gen.2 rx8 with a tekin t8 gen 2 on 4s. I have the esc on 2-3 layers of doubled sided tape in my 8e 4.0. I flat landed a larger jump and the throttle shut off of still had steering. The esc had all the lights flashing. I noticed that when i pushed down on the posts that it started working again. Probably something that needs sent in. Do i need to remove all the wires off of the esc to send it in?

All of the leds flashing means there is no radio signal. Check the RX, connector and wires for anything suspicious.

Since it works when you press on post it may be something inside the esc. Before sending it in you might open the case and check the wires inside and where they are soldered on the board.

Also look to see if the case is broken or the esc is moving around in it which could cause a loose connection between the circuit boards if this is an older unit with a board to board connector. Definitely sounds like a connection somewhere.

That's the question I was just about to ask. Fired up sct for 1st time after pnb and I'm getting the same symptoms.

Is there any special mounting you guys are using? I used 2-3 layers of 3M doubled side tape. Mind you that gets mounted directly to a chassis.

Kyosho gel pad to my ESC tray, but it won't hold on its own, it will pop loose under big g-force impacts. So now I have zip tied it(not very tight) to my ESC tray(still using the kyosho gel) and rubber mounted the tray to the chassis. Not ideal and not exactly happy with that. Maybe the gel does better straight to the alloy chassis? It doesn't do well on the typical black molded plastic.

I tried some racer's edge and RPM servo tape to the tray, it was temporary, that was a joke, it didn't hold overnight sitting on my stand.

Many guys use shoe goo(?) at my local track, it looks like a huge mess, but I guess it holds. I passed on that. I will look at the 3M stuff.

I have had good luck with the Zeal tape on plastic ESC trays. I just make sure that both the ESC and tray are cleaned with alcohol. Only 3 times in the last several years has the Zeal tape come off unintentionally, and I have taken some pretty big hits. Only once did it full separate so the ESC was flopping around. I have seen other tape fail too, so I don't think my record is to unreasonable.
But a secondary zip tie back up is not a bad idea.

The issue is that it's tough to see what caused the failure once it's happened.

What is all your setup in the car? Servo? battery? Battery Connectors? Motor? Gearing? Etc.

Why the CC BEC?

I checked the wires leading to the receiver and sure enough one of the wires were cut. Soldered it and put a piece of heat shrink on it and it worked good as new.