Thanks Eric Seems like you just helped me to make a decision!
Now to get to the designing board!
Hope Its Quiet tonight!!!

Good job, eR1c!

Thanks guys,

Yeah the biggest jump I found was from no fan to fan, ...using the angled design gives a slight improvement ...but also adds about 5-6grams of weight when you consider both screws and hardware. So you have to weigh whether its worth it or not to drop about 5-8* but add an additional 5grams. For me it is, as 150-155* temps are a tad higher than I'd like and I can see a minor performance drop at that temp.

I really wish we could drill a hole in the chassis and just mount fan right about the can. that would be the best solution.

your driving style alone can influence temps. especially in mini when you have too much power than you know what to do with (wheelspin)

That makes sense OSherman.
I have a bit of wheelspin if I accelerate hard out of a turn ...actually it is more like diff' spin. I usually run my motor at a lower timing also. This track just had really long straights. My typical race track is much tighter so I lower the timing ...my temps on those tracks are usually in the 135-140 range.

I have a chassis and motor mount order. What else would I need to order to convert old to new? what If I just want to use square battery's?
Thanks

Hi guys, I have to question
Is their any must have hop-up when buying a M05 #58438 except the bearing kit?
Is it worth the wait to buy the new VII R (84424) kit or even buy the VII pro kit (58593), I want to be as competitive as possible.

Mini are really starting to be popular at our local track (we have on road event with only minis). We have the stock rule for electronic silver can and any brushed esc, I think lipos are allowed.

Stabilizers (at least rear), oil shocks, tuned springs, TA03 ball diff, bmw cooper long body for me.

Oil dampers and shimmed up stock diff (MR diff) are imo must-haves for the M05.

Bearings are kind of over rated unless you are racing. I mean I use them but not necessary for bashing.

We are racing, we have A and B class of around 8 guys each.

Nice, definitely look into all metal bearings

ZoomZoom

Raced again last night.

Very tight technical track. In practice I was getting most of the circuit ok but really struggled on the tightest part.

First heat and I was awful, essentially crashed non stop. Felt like I had too much steering, it would crash then basically crash again as I tried to rejoin the race. Fishtail from barrier to barrier lol.

Next heat I turned down my steering on my tx and didn't put additive on the rear. Didn't have enough steering.


Next heat I lowered the car 2mm and put additive back on and added the steering back.This was a bit better and I realised that some of the crashing was due to wheelspin and losing control. I was 2 laps up on my first heat.

For most of the track I was as fast as everyone else but that one part of the track killed me nearly every lap.

Into the final and it was much the same only with more people and more carnage

Had a lot of fun, I can't help feel that switching back to the stock open diff might make the car easier to drive.

That's all you need. But to get the full advantages of the v2 chassis consider the one piece arms (standard or carbon reinforced) plus the 4 droop screws.

The v2 R is the best value way to get the hop ups as the dampers are the best you can get and they're expensive on their own. And the double cardan driveshafts are great and exclusive to the R at the moment. Nothing wrong with the Pro though too but just not as good value. The only must have IMHO over anything in the pro and R (and definitely over the stock kit) is a really strong servo saver), we've found even the Tamiya #51000 is not so great after a while and allows the car to wander under power, especially if you run a trick diff.