I read the replies, thanks everyone for the info. I picked up some 12GA red wire, it's very flexible and not solid like the other wire. And, I de-soldered everything, and cleaned it all up. I've gotten so much better at soldering, I will post up another picture when I finish. It looks alot cleaner, and not clumpy looking. I've been careful about everything. And I've NEVER overheated a post I won't touch the iron to a post for longer then a couple seconds.

I almost want to order a new case for my RX8 Gen2, and a new fan. One of the fan blades broke off during regular use, a rock or stick got in there usually any debris will fall right out without damage. But I noticed my whole car was vibrating due to missing a blade, from the off balance fan.

Maybe Ty or Krio may answer this, with the T8 Truggy motors do you recommend gearing up a tooth vs. a regular Buggy length canned motor? I only ask, as I am looking to do the switch to the Truggy motor and want to make sure I start off in the right direction. I am basing this all on the motor possibly having more torque, and trying to mitigate / dampen the effect by gearing up perhaps. I am more used to the power delivery with a Nitro Powerplant (Clutch) as such I am trying to setup accordingly.

I'm sending the Tekin RX8 Gen 2 in for warranty repair.

It still powers on, and everything seems fine. But, I think it has lost a phase? It just heats my motor up, and cannot rotate the pro4 motor. The motor squealing is bad when you try to accelerate. It cannot even spin the wheels.

Connections are all correct to ABC to ABC order, I factory reset it, and recalibrated my radio to esc. No luck!

It's really strange. I never get near moisture, I won't dare take my car near anything wet so I'm really confused as to what has happen.

Now my esc has a rattle in it if you shake it? No burnt smell at all. It still powers on great.

I'm lost

You can run a tooth taller if you run a Truggy motor in a buggy to help control wheel spin.

Have you tried another motor?

Esc and motor are both perfect again! Had a bad battery.

yzracer758,
I was looking at the image you attached of the motor wire soldering job. I think I read somewhere that the motor wires should be soldered in the direction you show in the image, going with the motor. Is that correct or can they be soldered the other way? I have a tekno and the esc sits behind the motor.

Airtronics M12 and MT4.

I just purchased a new RX8 Gen 2 and a new Tekin 1900kv. Soldered it up and calibrated it. I am getting the wrong motor code. Any ideas?

Just make a small loop in the wire (see pic). Also you want to make sure the wires have some room to flex so you aren't stressing the solder joints.

You may have chose a wrong motor type or managed to bridge any of the ABC tabs on the motor.

Quick test: perform a factory reset on the esc by powering it up, holding down both buttons until it chimes(about 3 seconds) and let go. Once it's done, perform ONLY a radio calibration. Result?

Yup!

I just ordered a new case, and fan for my Tekin RX8 Gen2. The casing was slightly melted, and something broke off one of the fan blades on the old case, and fan.

I was going to prep it ahead of the new case arriving.

I decided to disassemble my RX8 Gen2, it was fairly easy. To my surprise, was how dirty the ESC was inside. The green PCB and red PCB were caked in gunk, and flux, and dirt. Nothing like I have ever seen! It could be yours to! Mine was not even 1 month old.

I just figured I would post this up, I cannot imagine how a ESC could get that much gunk inside. All of the post were filled in side with gunk, and it was contacting all of the all of the electronics inside. I sprayed with electronic cleaner. And tooth brush with water. Let everything dry.

I had a rattle in my RX8 before I took it apart, if you shook the unit, in your hand. It was a small rock.

Once my new case gets here I will reassemble.

Just a heads up, my RX8 Gen2 looked really clean . On the outside that is.. I couldn't believe it was still working it was bad. I guess that's a SCT truck for you. The body is a fender after all.

Now, all the boards look brand new! No dirt, no gunk. And it fires right up with out hesitation!

All of that dirt, and gunk does nothing but insulate, and create more heat.

Sent in for service. Thanks for not making me jump through 50 hoops.


I performed a reset same result wrong motor type. I checked the senor wire, the wires soldered to the esc and the motor. Definitely not bridged.

got my tekin hotwire unit yesterday, all i can say...I WAS WAY THE HELL OFF when it came to attempting manually program it. one example i thought i was in DB setting 2 after programming from the 4-5 fact setting, i was in 6. which explains the severe nose dive on jumps when i let off the throttle. 4-5 was too high to begin with, i made it worse.

highly recommend not skimping on getting one and the small cable

anyone know where one can get a phone to phone cable?

TKW has a phone input, i want to use my phone when i'm at the track to make changes, and not have to pack a laptop