Myself and another racer use the original 10° spindles on ours (indoor) to get more responsive steering at our local track . I prefer it and think it helps when things are tight and technical with lots of 180's or tight chicanes.

That would be me. My buggy pushed really bad with the 15 deg trailing axle setup.

Ok thanks for the advice. I'm sure it will be a great event to go to and I will have a great time win or lose.

Joe you bring the total up to 3

I initially struggled getting the .3 to perform as well as my .2. However, in the end, I've gotten the .3 to out perform my .2. I went through the stages of trying the .2 front spindles and caster blocks. The change, for me, was negligible, so I reversed the change.

I'm running a Joe Bornhost setup that is very good and used by a lot of the team drivers.

One of the subtle changes that I made reluctantly was the addition of drag brake. I found myself blowing corners with both the .2 and .3 over the years. I fought running drag brake as the common theme from the 4WD crowd was to NOT use it.

Then I recalled seeing Ryan Lutz's Tekin Rx8 setup sheet from over a year ago. While I saw where he ran drag brake, it didn't cross my mind to run it until I began running their chassis setups (which lacked a little in the turns for me initially).

I'm not saying that this is the "cure all" for more responsive steering in the turns. However, since adding drag brake ("6" for the Rx8 setting) in both buggy and truggy, I've lowered my lap times, hold tighter lines in the corners and with little to no ill effects of on power stability.

There are infinite ways to tune these buggies. Almost to a fault. I doubted this option (drag brake) far too long before trying it. The more I talk about it in the pits, the more I hear others are also using it as well (secretively?).

SHHHHHH

Can you please post that setup sheet. Been trying to search the web for it but i think it got taken down.

It isn't easy to find because it is from the nitro, but they're using it on both the nitro and electric buggy.

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...0Bumpy_Dry.pdf

Could you guys please explain to me how a controlled practice works because the event I may be going to in the future has a "controlled practice"?

Im no expert when it comes to big races, but the last one I went to this is how it went-
they had set times for practice i.e.- from 8am-9am for 1/10-9am-10am for 1/8th etc.
they split up classes so 1/8 nitro wasn't running at the same time as 10th two wheel drives- they allowed a set number of drivers on the stand and you were allowed to drive for a set amount of time-6-10mins. Then all of those drivers got off the stand and the next group who were waiting in line goes up to drive. If you wanted to run again with a new battery or fuel up you had to get in line again.

There are multiple ways to do controlled practice. The short version is that it just means you can't stand up there and just keep driving. They're always timed with x time on the stand.

The most common ways are:
1) waiting line
2) by class type (usually with waiting line for that class)
3) by heat number

No I meant the RX8 set up on the eb48.3 with the drag brake and timing and settings. Can't find that anywhere.

I too tried the 15 deg trailing setup on my eb48.2, it murdered my steering. I don't know if I should have changed some other adjustments to compensate, but I went right back to the others.

There's two different Wicked Weekend setups, one for EB and one for NB. I have the EB on my EB and the NB on my NB

Do any of you guys use SMC Batteries? Im trying to decide which of theirs I should grab. The lowest MAH ones are 34 bucks will those be enough to get me by? Im trying to justify the extra cost Im usually running 15 minuts of practice per battery and the heats / mains at my track are 6 and 8 minutes