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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 03-14-2016, 09:52 AM   #1321
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Originally Posted by TR21X1 View Post
I posted this in the old EB48 forum sorry. I was wondering if anyone has tried the older 10deg carrier in this buggy? Like/Dislike?
Myself and another racer use the original 10 spindles on ours (indoor) to get more responsive steering at our local track . I prefer it and think it helps when things are tight and technical with lots of 180's or tight chicanes.
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Old 03-14-2016, 11:21 AM   #1322
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Myself and another racer use the original 10 spindles on ours (indoor) to get more responsive steering at our local track . I prefer it and think it helps when things are tight and technical with lots of 180's or tight chicanes.
That would be me. My buggy pushed really bad with the 15 deg trailing axle setup.
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Old 03-14-2016, 05:22 PM   #1323
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Originally Posted by rcjunky10 View Post
You would definitely want to start with Sportsman, more fun for you and the guys your competing against. Open will be advanced drivers up to the "sponsored" guys. Depending on the event and type of sponsorship, you may encounter "sponsored" drivers in the open class.

Most important thing to remember, have fun and enjoy yourself, after all we are grownups playing with really expensive "toys".
Ok thanks for the advice. I'm sure it will be a great event to go to and I will have a great time win or lose.
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Old 03-15-2016, 01:24 AM   #1324
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
That would be me. My buggy pushed really bad with the 15 deg trailing axle setup.
Joe you bring the total up to 3
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Old 03-15-2016, 08:30 AM   #1325
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Joe you bring the total up to 3
I initially struggled getting the .3 to perform as well as my .2. However, in the end, I've gotten the .3 to out perform my .2. I went through the stages of trying the .2 front spindles and caster blocks. The change, for me, was negligible, so I reversed the change.

I'm running a Joe Bornhost setup that is very good and used by a lot of the team drivers.

One of the subtle changes that I made reluctantly was the addition of drag brake. I found myself blowing corners with both the .2 and .3 over the years. I fought running drag brake as the common theme from the 4WD crowd was to NOT use it.

Then I recalled seeing Ryan Lutz's Tekin Rx8 setup sheet from over a year ago. While I saw where he ran drag brake, it didn't cross my mind to run it until I began running their chassis setups (which lacked a little in the turns for me initially).

I'm not saying that this is the "cure all" for more responsive steering in the turns. However, since adding drag brake ("6" for the Rx8 setting) in both buggy and truggy, I've lowered my lap times, hold tighter lines in the corners and with little to no ill effects of on power stability.

There are infinite ways to tune these buggies. Almost to a fault. I doubted this option (drag brake) far too long before trying it. The more I talk about it in the pits, the more I hear others are also using it as well (secretively?).
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Old 03-15-2016, 08:36 AM   #1326
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Originally Posted by vwduud View Post
I initially struggled getting the .3 to perform as well as my .2. However, in the end, I've gotten the .3 to out perform my .2. I went through the stages of trying the .2 front spindles and caster blocks. The change, for me, was negligible, so I reversed the change.

I'm running a Joe Bornhost setup that is very good and used by a lot of the team drivers.

One of the subtle changes that I made reluctantly was the addition of drag brake. I found myself blowing corners with both the .2 and .3 over the years. I fought running drag brake as the common theme from the 4WD crowd was to NOT use it.

Then I recalled seeing Ryan Lutz's Tekin Rx8 setup sheet from over a year ago. While I saw where he ran drag brake, it didn't cross my mind to run it until I began running their chassis setups (which lacked a little in the turns for me initially).

I'm not saying that this is the "cure all" for more responsive steering in the turns. However, since adding drag brake ("6" for the Rx8 setting) in both buggy and truggy, I've lowered my lap times, hold tighter lines in the corners and with little to no ill effects of on power stability.

There are infinite ways to tune these buggies. Almost to a fault. I doubted this option (drag brake) far too long before trying it. The more I talk about it in the pits, the more I hear others are also using it as well (secretively?).

SHHHHHH
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Old 03-15-2016, 02:37 PM   #1327
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Can you please post that setup sheet. Been trying to search the web for it but i think it got taken down.
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Old 03-15-2016, 07:14 PM   #1328
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It isn't easy to find because it is from the nitro, but they're using it on both the nitro and electric buggy.

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...0Bumpy_Dry.pdf
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Old 03-15-2016, 07:55 PM   #1329
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Could you guys please explain to me how a controlled practice works because the event I may be going to in the future has a "controlled practice"?
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Old 03-15-2016, 08:24 PM   #1330
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Im no expert when it comes to big races, but the last one I went to this is how it went-
they had set times for practice i.e.- from 8am-9am for 1/10-9am-10am for 1/8th etc.
they split up classes so 1/8 nitro wasn't running at the same time as 10th two wheel drives- they allowed a set number of drivers on the stand and you were allowed to drive for a set amount of time-6-10mins. Then all of those drivers got off the stand and the next group who were waiting in line goes up to drive. If you wanted to run again with a new battery or fuel up you had to get in line again.
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Old 03-16-2016, 12:30 AM   #1331
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Could you guys please explain to me how a controlled practice works because the event I may be going to in the future has a "controlled practice"?
There are multiple ways to do controlled practice. The short version is that it just means you can't stand up there and just keep driving. They're always timed with x time on the stand.

The most common ways are:
1) waiting line
2) by class type (usually with waiting line for that class)
3) by heat number
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Old 03-16-2016, 04:46 AM   #1332
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
It isn't easy to find because it is from the nitro, but they're using it on both the nitro and electric buggy.

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...0Bumpy_Dry.pdf
No I meant the RX8 set up on the eb48.3 with the drag brake and timing and settings. Can't find that anywhere.
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Old 03-16-2016, 06:03 AM   #1333
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
That would be me. My buggy pushed really bad with the 15 deg trailing axle setup.
I too tried the 15 deg trailing setup on my eb48.2, it murdered my steering. I don't know if I should have changed some other adjustments to compensate, but I went right back to the others.
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Old 03-16-2016, 08:13 AM   #1334
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It isn't easy to find because it is from the nitro, but they're using it on both the nitro and electric buggy.

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...0Bumpy_Dry.pdf
There's two different Wicked Weekend setups, one for EB and one for NB. I have the EB on my EB and the NB on my NB
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Old 03-16-2016, 08:31 AM   #1335
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Do any of you guys use SMC Batteries? Im trying to decide which of theirs I should grab. The lowest MAH ones are 34 bucks will those be enough to get me by? Im trying to justify the extra cost Im usually running 15 minuts of practice per battery and the heats / mains at my track are 6 and 8 minutes
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