Yes let's talk about rebound stroke as Marcika asks.

My shocks rebound all the way out on their own after compression and letting it go without a spring. I capped and bled them with the shock shafts all the way out max.

Is this too much where it is affecting my handling on carpet?

Ideally you want springs to hold the car up, and damping to control the spring

Less rebound is usually the preferred way to accomplish that

drill a hole in the caps and you will be able to get 0 rebound

Okay but you have to put a mini screw back in there to plug it back up? Or where is the hole go? The bladder takes care of no need for a screw?
I know I seen this in Offroad or Yokomo makes an Aeration Cap for the BD7:

No need for a screw. I have sent you a PM...


...

Thanks for the help guys.

Here is back to back pics of both Rear and Front Shots on Stock vs Short 20mm LP Shock Towers and Yokomo SLF II Short Shocks Set:

Assuming those towers are the Fiberlyte ones? I just picked up the Much More x-springs and a set of the 25MM towers to test out.

Yes Fibre-Lyte towers.

If the pressure in the bladder is ever less then the pressure generated between the bladder and piston, there is risk of air entry into the shock around the shaft or air bubble formation (#4 below). This is full-size automobile shock behavior, and therefore full-size automobile shock manufacturers keep the pressure in the bladder high. I use a foam pellet in my shock bladders and build the shock with the shaft all the way out to obtain behavior like #1 below. Model cars, of course, don't always behave like full size cars. So the importance of this is not proven with model cars, but I can say I don't get air in my shocks with that method.

Hey ic-racer, did you get full rebound in the way you built your shocks or something else?

Well for me in building the Yokomo SLF II Short shocks for the 419 and my new BD7 2016 I am still getting full rebound, maybe a more slowly rebound and not as forcefully as before. I cannot build a low or zero rebound shock it seems.

I did not drill a hole in the plastic cap yet but compressed the shock shaft in all the way minus about 2mm then put on the bladder and capped it and held the shaft in that position until the cap was on tight. So not sure what is going on yet.

Watched Jilles Groskamp's video.

If this was a wonderful thing to do, the shocks would come that way from factory (holes drilled in the caps) Not claiming to be an expert, it just doesn't seem correct..???

Someone want to do a video on it or pictures?

I get air in my shocks quite often but I never race onroad 1/10 electric or nitro.
I race 1/8 buggy, 1/10 truck off road.
I am new to this scene... please be patient with me...

You can take a look at X-ray t4 16 shocks. They came with bleeder holes.
It was a joy to build X-ray shocks , cuz I have never built shocks with 0 rebound with only 1 try. All the shocks are dead zero . All because of that convenient bleeder hole.

When you talk about the bleeder hole, do you mean a true bleed hole like in off road emulsion shocks? Or just an air hole.

The off road emulsion shocks have no bladder, just an oring to prevent the cap from leaking. Fill the shock, put on the cap, hold shock at angle that make hole the highest point and slowly push the shaft all the way in, foring fluid oit of the hole. While shaft is at full compression, screw the cap in before the shock can extent. This creates a vacuum inside the shock and actually pulls the shaft in when extented. We service aircraft struts in a very similar way.

An air hole like you see on most on-road shocks is to allow the air trapped in between the bladder and cap to escape instead of compress this is what partially ca uses rebound. Without the air hole a zero rebound shock is impossible to build.

Another reason you are getting rebound is you must compress the shock to displace fluid before you put the bladder and cap on. If not, the shock will feel stiffer than it should as the piston and shaft attempt to occupy the same space as the fluid. The bladder will flex upward and the air in the cap will compress some to allow the piston and shaft to move, but only to a point. The bladder will either rupture or if strong enough, the bladder will hold the pressure and prevent the shock from fully compressing.

A third option, which I think is what xray does but don't know for sure since I have never built an xray shock is to use a bladder, and bleed hole. But you are bleeding the air out of the cap creating a vacuum in the space between the cap and the bladder. I believe this way to be possible to get a zero rebound shock without an air hole.

Shocks can be tough. There are lots of different ways to build them. The ml ost important thing is build then the same way every time to get consistent results. If not yu may not know if the thinner shock oil helped or if it was the way you built the shock the previous time that was wrong.

I build my trf shocks the exact same way as explained. The only time Ive ever really seemed to not get 0 rebound was when i didnt get all the air out prior to putting the bladders on the shock would end up with a bit of rebound. Then I would start over and spend a little extra time getting all the bubbles out and try again my shocks would always end up with 0 rebound. Ive never had to use the bleeder hole option. Sometimes loosening the cap a bit and compressing the the shaft and retightening will even work for me.