boucher

Can of worms indeed lol.

Brass C block adds weight near the rear, but keeps it as low as possible, as opposed to the CVDs which are a little higher up (and don't add as much weight.) You can lighten it up to the legal limit, which I don't remember right now.

Jpdanger

I think he meant the aluminum C and d parts. The brass weighs more than both c and d, so think of it as adding rear weight incrementally. Plastic > aluminum > brass from lightest to heaviest. The heaviest would be the brass c and aluminum d.

A heavier car will be slower to respond which is generally better for less experienced drivers. A light car can be very responsive and difficult to drive for the less experienced. Whatever you do, remember to adjust your setup accordingly. A lighter car needs a lighter suspension than a heavier car.

Chuch

iTrader: (1)

Both responses were helpful to craft a general picture guys. I appreciate the quick help.

Chuch

iTrader: (1)

Anyone fitting a Savox 1258tg in their truck? Having a hard time over here. Lol

joncmack

iTrader: (31)

Yes, had no trouble at all. What kind of problem(s) are you running into?

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Same here, no problems.
What ya got goin on?

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Anybody else see these yet?
Tire porn!

sduffy77

iTrader: (24)

I'm looking forward to seeing Micron's for truck. Dialed

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Have a set on the way to try out

mhughesjr

iTrader: (7)

So my local track just started a 17.5 blinky ST class and I have been getting my but handed to me. My truck was really good in mod and I would normally finish in the top three of the A main. Now I'm lucky if I finish top three in the B main. My question is does weight really make that big of a difference? This is my first stock class so I am completely ignorant. My truck currently weighs in at 2110 grams. I am running a Trinity D4 1S 17.5 with a Reedy blackbox set to blinky. I'm geared 28/78 and running saddle packs. I'm debating on lighting up my truck and adding the three gear. Is it worth the investment. Or is there other things I could do?

frankf

iTrader: (4)

Yes weight makes a big difference in stock racing, you want to be close to legal weight so use a shorty pack, carbon chassis, 3 gear tranny with slipper eliminator, your truck is too heavy at 2110 g how did you even get it that heavy?

mhughesjr

iTrader: (7)

It's actually pretty much bone stock out of the box; however, I did add the brass C and D mounts. My saddle pack also weighs in at 300 grams. Looks like I need to put her on a diet. Legal weight is 1700 correct?

boucher

Also, driving technique means more in stock racing. It's super important to drive in a manner that keeps up speed through corners. You don't have the big motor to throttle your way out of a turn, so you have to maintain corner speed more efficiently. Also, go through your bearings. My kit bearings were crap in my truck, but I cleaned them out and relubed them and now they're night and day better. Free up any rolling resistance you can.

Jpdanger

Follow Frank's recommendation. Ditch the saddles. Too much weight. I run 17.5 with my T5M and I'm using the XFactory CF chassis, three gear tranny, and titanium turnbuckles. I don't use an eliminator, nor do I use MIP pucks for personal preference. I could shave quite a bit of weight with the elim and pucks as well as other upgrades, but I'm happy with where the truck is right now. Trucks weighs in around 1850.

If you do put your truck on a diet, remember to lighten your suspension. If you don't, without the weight your suspension will be too stiff. I use 30wt front, 25wt rear, and green new truck springs all around. Yours may be slightly different since my set up suits my driving style.

draboyd19

iTrader: (30)

I just mounted a Savox 1257TG in mine yesterday and it fit really well. Sometimes you have to play with the distance between the side mount screws but it will fit with a little finesse. Here is a picture of the work - I was happy with the fit of the electronics with the coiling of the wires.