It does not cost $50 to ship an esc to China... If so, you are doing it wrong, lol

Buy from West Coast USA Warehouse, return to West Coast USA Warehouse. Very simple. I have personally gone through about twenty Trackstar esc's and only had one dud. I waited too long to test it so it was out of warranty. I've never had the others fail on me. I also don't have a history of poor soldering techniques, shorting out, pushing electronics to the max, or generally just plain killing RC electronics. If that describes you, give Trackstar a shot. If you are the opposite, spend 3X more on Tekin and their staff will hold your hand through every mistake you encounter.

I did buy a set of dud lipos from Hobbyking before. The RMA process was simple, pleasant, and fast. If you feal squeamish about spending your money on this brand or from this store, simply don't. Spend 3X more on Tekin or whatever other brand.

Or buy the Toro version from another certified retailer like rcmart.

And to answer the other question, I haven't touched Win10 yet. But I'm pretty sure that's a basic question of how to use compatibility mode.

Thanks for the info. Whenever I try to ship a esc or motor to China thru USPS it usually cost $25 for priority mail or over $50 with tracking. At least thats what they quote me at the post office.

How long are these esc's covered for?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...7X53414X36.pdf

See last page of instruction manual. Read up before you do something that will void your warranty. Something like using this esc with a Leopard 3665 2680kv motor geared tall and on 6s. It clearly states that is beyond the limits of this esc. If you fry the esc trying to break 140mph and pushing beyond the product's stated specifications, replacement is not covered by the warranty.

Wow. Im surprised you know the setup in my TC4! Haha. I wasn't planning to use it in that car but possibly in my Kyosho Inferno GT2 VE or possibly my Mugen MGT7e but I just ended up "spending 3 times more" on a Tekin RX8 gen 2 from my LHS since I needed it today. I might still end up trying the Trackstar ESC in the future. Thanks for the info.

I searched your post history and saw you like to push Rc's to the extreme. I just wanted to point out that you shouldn't expect white glove treatment from Hobbyking on these budget esc's. They are great, and I've pushed one beyond its specified amp limits several times without fail, but don't expect a warranty replacement if things smoke in extreme applications.

When shopping for this esc at Hobbyking, check the price at all warehouses. A few months ago I picked up several for $59. I think they were $80 at all the other warehouses.

Will do. Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

Just bought the Toro TS150A and X8S 1750KV to replace my Tekin setup...

First use went ok once I figured things out a bit. Does anybody know what 4 Beeps (red led) mean??

I think it was temp cutoff but not sure.

edit: it was a silly question. I just read the instructions and it's obvious you can't remove the switch.

Hi all,I got a savage flux conversion with a leopard 4074 2150 and run turnigy bolt 5400 3s. The motor and speed controller are brand new as I fired my xcar set up and decided to step to 6s. So I ran it for the first time the other day and everything was fine, ran out of battery and took it home. Charged batteries and when I went to run the next day it is cogging and not moving anywhere. I also have the WiFi module but no PC for software up date

Sounds like you bought the SkyRC flavor. I would contact their customer support. Something doesn't sound right.

Thanks, I thought as much and have sent them an email.

Well I bought one of these (Trackstar Gen 2 150A) and received it on Friday of last week. Got the program box as well which works just fine but I just had to try the USB link software. FYI the V1.07 software doesn't work at all. Found the V2.06 in a link on here although the website just kept showing me V1.07 when I would navigate to it.

So v2.06 works but it is difficult to get it to connect with the ESC.

I thought I would post my sequence here as it may be of help to someone else.

1. Open the USBLink software with the USB cable unplugged from the PC. It will say USB connection failed. "DO NOT CLICK OK"

2. Plug in the USB cable to the program box and then the PC. Wait for the TULINK software to open. In the bottom right corner it will say "Connection Fail"

3. Navigate to the setting screen.

4. Unplug the USB cable from the PC. The bottom right corner will say "USB Connection Fail"

5. Plug the USB back into the PC. Wait for it to reconnect. You may have to unplug it and plug it back in multiple times before it recognizes the USB connection again.

6. Once it recognizes the USB wait for it to find the ESC.

7. The progress bar on the bottom will fill from left to right and the message in the bottom right will read "Get Data from ESC Success"

At this point you can upload and download from/to the ESC. If you disconnect it or shut down the program you will have to start the process of connecting all over again.

Hope this helps if you're having trouble programming from the PC as I was.

In other news the ESC is working perfectly. I'm running a 2100kv sensored motor with a 5000mah 4S LIHV battery in my Losi 8ight 2.0 w/Tekno conversion and its got some serious kick. It's pretty much a ball of spinning fury at full throttle.

Update and question/concern.

No problem with the ESC or motor. But while I was out driving Saturday I realized I had too much drag brake for my liking. I hadn't brought anything with me as I had just been out driving around looking for a place to drive it and see if my tire glue job (Aluminum wheels) would hold up.

Fast forward to today. I decided to change the drag brake settings with the programming box instead of the computer for the sake of simplicity but it's got the descriptions and values all scrambled up.

For example throttle deadband said 25% and drag brake said 80us.

Well drag brake was set at 20% (way too high BTW I'm new to 1/8th) and throttle deadband at 80us on Saturday so I knew. Reverse was 25% on Saturday and today the reverse options were line and custom. So yeah all scrambled.

When I decided to connect it to the PC the settings in the ESC were as expected. I changed them and went out for a drive to verify the new settings and they definitely worked.

Anyone ever experienced this issue? I'm thinking a firmware update to the program box to coincide with the V2.06 software may be needed.

Thoughts?

**EDIT**
I changed the firmware of the program box back down to 1.07. It was at 2.1. Now the data and the descriptions line up again.

So in short. If you're using the V1.0 firmware in the ESC you must use the V1.07 firmware in the programming box.

Got 2 of these with bad switches and wondering if anybody had any luck swapping switches and what one did u use ???

From what all i have read, v1.0 firmware for the esc is the only firmware available. Correct?