Could someone give me some insight as what would happen if you change the damper tube angles? That is, flat vs angled.

The flatter the more roll the car will have. It's sort of like "leaning in" your shocks on a tc on the rear tower.

Which end do you raise or lower, inner or outer?

Raise the outer if your looking for more roll. Careful a little goes a long way.

Here's what one of the fast guys are running for a damper tube setup..

Looks like the sort of setup used on the old Trinity Black Widow, which mounted the pod top plate very low.

Might have been done to allow him to run his motor wires under the top plate for low CoG etc, otherwise they would have fouled on the tubes.

I spoke to him about it and he said it gives "more steering in the second half of the corner".

I'll have to give this a go.

Interesting thing occurred to me at the AOC when running 21.5 1/12th scale. I was having many, many, issues with the cars handling and handed it over to the Team Bomber owner for some setup suggestions and so on. He looked over my car and came across the pivot during the check over. He told me the pivot block was bolted down to the chassis too tight. He went on by saying that if you bolt it down too tight the block will deform and cause the pivot to bind. I was surprised to hear that. So we tested it out and he let me tighten it down my way and then we tested the pivots movement. He was right. The pivot was oh so slightly binding. Then I gave my car to him to readjust to his liking. He simply snugged up the two screws and that was it. The pivot was super smooth and free. However, my only concern is how easily will it move during a crash? I guess this means if you follow his method, you should check and reset the pivot after every run.

Check your pivot/links with pod pastes/motor/side springs off after ANY huge crash

Which car ?

Rev8s with included Xenon pivots are very free when tight

For any link car, if a side link is not free after a hit, it is an indicator of a center pivot issue

Opinions on the Trackstar 1s ESC? Looking to pick up an inexpensive ESC and just wondering what people thought of these. The price is almost too good to be true.

I've got two of them and love them. Make sure you buy the program card also, because you need it to set to blinky mode, and you'll want to play with the brake settings too. Basically the only esc anybody runs at my local track. I also have 3 of the 2-cell esc's, and a bunch of their motors. Not the fastest things in the world, but reliable, and affordable. Good enough for me.

Put a crc lightweight left hub on and the thing stripped the threads the first qualifier after a (not hard) tap on the board. That's not a common occurence with these hubs is it? I want to replace it but think I'll use a longer bolt, the one it came with didn't come near the end of the clamp threads.

I can assure you it wasn't overtightened when installed.. I was born with a wrench in each hand and torque wrenches for fingers That's just my way of saying I'm not fast, so I take pride in my build/maintenance abilities and finishing races, be they 5 minutes or 45.

Thanks. Is the program box on either of their US web sites? I can't find it anywhere but on the international.