Is your main chassis balanced?

Quick question - Did you true the tires yourself? What arbor are you using?

First thing I would check is to see if your foam tires are perfectly true.
I would turn on the car and blip the throttle to see if your foam is out-of-round.

I encountered a similar situation where the left side of the rear pod (under the axle) was 0.4 mm lower then the right. I discovered the set of newly trued foams I bolted on my car were not perfectly placed on the arbor. *I wasn't using my tire truer at the time. The arbor wasn't set correctly in the wheel, after a few cuts here and there I couldn't tell if it was out of true. However, after cutting down and mounting to the car is when I noticed the tire was out-of-round. The ride height even'd up after putting on a new set of properly trued tires.



I'm not saying this arbor is bad, it's probably one of the best out there. Please make sure 100% you know how to operate the truer and understand how the arbor functions. For me, this is the one I had difficulties with and caused the tire to cut out-of-round.

KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!

Sincerely,

User Error.

I've used balancing pins and seemed ok. Might be worth taking all electronics off and starting again perhaps.

Using the yokomo truer with hudy arbour. Looks fine when truing no wobbling and callipers on tyres seem to check out right. Rotating the tyres should change the problem to the other side? Will check it later.

Just a friendly warning: The 8-32 aluminum screws used on the Associated "old school" and "dynamic strut" front ends have a different countersink angle on them versus normal UNC/UNF screws like you would find at your local hardware store (100 degrees versus 82 degrees, respectively). Use the right ones, or the carbon-fiber chassis can delaminate under stress.

I always had difficulty getting sufficient ride height with very small tires when using the old school suspension. Speed Merchant offers old school arms that have been machined down to fix this (as well as giving correct camber and caster angles, since the arms tend to be warped coming out of the mold).

Many 1/12th scale pods I've worked with develop some tweak during the assembly due to the tightening of the screws. This is most prominent on pods that use a tube across the back of the pod for bracing because you turn the right side screw down to tighten and the left side screw up. The trick is to assemble the pod on a flat pit board pushing down on it so tightening the tube doesn't tweak the pod...and also not over tightening it. Cars that use a carbon fiber rear brace with 4 screws have less of a problem but it can still be there because the screws all rotate the same direction on the back.

Old school cars had a top plate that went all the way around the pod so they didn't need the brace...make me wonder if maybe we shouldn't to back to that style pod.

are yall running a stiffer rear side pod spring in a 13.5 pan than you would in a 17.5 class?

When I find a difference in ride height at this location, I tend to look at the front end of the car. A collapsed front spring or lower arm pivot ball that is loose (moves up under load), can change the height of the front axle.

Although, I would also see a difference in ride height at the front as well. It will depend on the increments of measurement, and the quality of the tool.

Interesting. Wasn't it 100 degrees versus 82? I'm in the slow process of rebuilding of an RC12L and I can't bring myself to use the aluminum Philips screws. I miraculously found black steel flat-head 8-32 hex screws at my local hardware shop, and in several different lengths! Well, said steel screws seem to have the right angle for the front end, but for the rear pod the cones in the fiberglass seem to have a wider angle. It is as if they had actually countersunk the two parts with a different bit for each. Weird.

I just run different tires, others do too.

These are the notes from Josh Cyrul's setup when he won the 2014 Mile High race "We actually ran the exact same set-up on all three cars (17.5, 13.5 & Mod). Only difference was the tires. 17.5 = JM Rear, XH Front. 13.5 = XM Rear, JH Front. Mod = XS Rear, JH Front.

Josh's 1st race with his Rev.8, TQ and Won all 3 classes!"

That's a magenta rear and double blue front in 17.5, Blue rear and team purple front in 13.5, green rear and team purple front in mod for anyone wondering

Yes, I just measured one: 100 degrees!

Funny you mentioned this

I did a video last night on this exact topic you're talking about.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHJ7pivJ3sI

Japanese manufactured bearings by Tire Factory.

Stupid expensive but amazingly precise. I won them as a prize in a raffle.

If you're wondering what it says. It says "1/12th Super Precision Bearing".

I'll be doing a durability test at the upcoming AOC

A poor man's method of what you have done in the video is to just disconnect your center shock and leave everything else attached. The 4 points of contact now should be the two rear tires and the two "wings" of your lower pod plate. If the pod is tweaked, when you lift up on one of the rear tires there will be a slight hesitation/rocking before the "wing" on the same side tire you are lifting rises. This also will help determine if your axle/hub is bent as you can turn one tire 1/4 turn at a time while doing this to determine which side is bent if you suspect a problem.

8-32 Imperial

Guys I had quite a problem yesterday: the track had huge grip and my front tyres were collecting a lot of dirt from the track. They became very sticky and the hair collected from the ground formed murbles which caused a very bad understeer; after 5 mins the car was loosing the hole steering.
Interestingly using tyre additive minimised that, but the track was so grippy that I couldn't use any sauce on the fronts... I tried Speedtech foam liquid and Corally tc2.
With sauce on fronts the car was just impossible to drive, no matter how little was the treated area, the front end was so aggressive that the car turned around at the back of the straight!!
I haven't been able to solve this problem. Any idea?