I appreciate the input. I was running 5k lube as that is what CRC recommended. I just switched to the 20K at the recommendation of a couple of the local guys. That change alone really didnt make much difference.

I do have a Strakka body on the way for just that reason.

The center spring is the dark blue AE. I really hate switching between companies, I need to get a full set of one brand and stick with it.

I hear ya on the rear tire suggestion, a harder compound could help "unstick" the car a bit.

bdmpastx - the silver side springs are soft correct? Would a stiffer side spring help?

Any other suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks for the links to great setup advice!

But i'm asking specifically I need to make a change in less than a minute what the quick fix for a left turn and diff'ing out would be and if you could help me understand the mechanism behind it that would be great!

Thank you for you time,

Ivan

Stiffer side springs make the car tippy and will cause the car to diff out more and transfer more downforce on the rear tire on the outside thus increasing bite that will result in traction rolls.

XRay Silver side springs are soft. The straight ones, not the coned ones.

Quick changes would be;

- Check your differential and make sure it's set right (not slipping)
- Switching to softer side springs. What are you running now?
- Softer front springs.

Give'r a go!

When you mean "silver side springs" are you talking about Associated?

Personally, I run Associated black side springs with good results on low-medium carpet. However, if the the car starts diff'ing out under high traction conditions, then I run Yokomo's softer side springs. i.e YK Green, Purple.

If your car is diffing out or spinning out one way, but not the other way, it is tweaked, not even weight on the rear tires. Quick easy fix is adjust tweak for the way it is spinning or diffing out, if it spins out on right hand corners add more preload or weight to the right hand spring, and vice versa for left hand turns... I would take a close look though and see if you can figure out why it's spinning out one way if it didn't before, something changed or moved, make sure front end is still level and square, nothing broke or binding, and make sure rear axle didn't slide or move if it's a "slider" type pod, or that the same ride height spacers are in it left to right...

From Scotty Ernst

"It is November and that means it is time to start preparing for the AOC Finals at the World Famous Yatabe Arena. We have most of the best onroad racers from around the World making the trip to Japan so it will again be a fantastic finals.
We want to let everyone know for the stock classes. 13.5, 17.5 and 21.5 we will be doing a maximum KV test for these motors. The maximum KV allowed are as follows.
13.5 = 3100
17.5 = 2300
21.5 = 2000
We will test the racers motors during practice on Friday and Saturday morning before we begin and then mark them, this will ensure the fairest event possible. We have done this at previous AOC events and the process works very well."

Great idea, but... IMO those who are coming from outside countries that don't follow JMRCA rules will have a tough time in 1/12th 21.5. The allotted KV values will in my mind favor motors with larger rotors, because a bigger rotor will yield a lower KV which will result in more peak power. Therefore, someone who's running a large rotor say 14.00 mm (yes, it's legal), can maintain a really low KV and gear the living hell out of it to gain back the RPM. However, those who are arriving with 12.5 mm rotors, will have a harder time.

Does anyone have a starting point for the new Trinity 24K motors for 17.5 1/12? Need some rollout/timing starting suggestions. Also can someone say what the differences are between this motor and the D41S? I love my D41S but want to try the 24k.

And how do they account for timing on the motors? What keeps someone from turning in a motor for tech at -30* of timing to keep the RPM very low and then cranking it back up to +30* of timing once out of tech?

Always great advice Edward not just in this thread but other threads i've seen you post in…. just most if it takes too much time!

So I’m guessing right for a quick fix! Thanks. Obviously going thru the car and putting on setup station before putting on the track is the right way to do it.

Thanks again for the advice!

Ivan

Checking them after the race.

I love modified racing. That is all.

I realise this is probably a stupid question but is there ANY way of making foam tyres work on concrete tennis court surfaces without using a "wet" tyre prep etc

I would love to run my 1/12 more but the only regular track close to me is setup on 2 concrete tennis courts. The surface appears to offer grip and rubber TC and F1 tyres work passingly well, but I think because it only has a very fine texture, foam tyres struggle to get any bite on the surface. The only time I've been able to make it work there was after rain and the surface was extremely clean and that has only happened once in 2 years (lots of construction etc around the area so lots of dust even after rain).

Obviously, because its a multipurpose facility, leaving traction compound marks all over the place is simply not acceptable. Whatever prep I do (if there is any) would have to leave the tyres "dry" to touch.

Hey, guys.

I'll be heading to AOC Yataba and will be running 1/12th 21.5 which is comparable in speed to 10.5 1s.

I've not really had any true racing experience on high-grip carpet. So I've come here to ask those who have and or frequently race on high-grip carpet for setup advice.

My current setup as it stand is... This was my go to setup for low-medium traction, however, it started to develop some rear tire lift because it started rain which increased the humidity. Also the amount of 1/12th running on the track started to increase the grip as well.

I did switch out to CRC 0.425 springs which helped the car. But, I think I need to switch out the center spring to one slightly softer. Maybe Morotech Medium Hard.

I would soften the tube lube to 10k-15k, if you have Yokomo purple or green side springs try those and change the reactive caster setting to 5 degrees.