Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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#451
Started my build tonight, quality of the parts look and feel so great compared to my previous 1/8 buggy experiences (Losi, Team Asso)!
Had some tough time building the turnbuckles though.
Always thought 8ight 3.0 chassis was narrow, now let's compare
Had some tough time building the turnbuckles though.
Always thought 8ight 3.0 chassis was narrow, now let's compare
#452
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
For the Tekno:
These at 91mm:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...oif482/p229204
Or these at 93mm:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...ifw425/p233893
These at 91mm:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...oif482/p229204
Or these at 93mm:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...ifw425/p233893
Don't pay retail for them. You can get them on ebay or dollar hobbyz for $20 a pair.
#453
Thanks mate! I just ordered them from Dollarhobbyz. They are less than $19 a pair, the hexes less than $9 for 4. Comparing to about the same price for the Tekno replacement dogbone, a steal! I ended up getting two pairs of the universals...Too bad Dollarhobbyz don't carry Teknos....
#454
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
Thanks mate! I just ordered them from Dollarhobbyz. They are less than $19 a pair, the hexes less than $9 for 4. Comparing to about the same price for the Tekno replacement dogbone, a steal! I ended up getting two pairs of the universals...Too bad Dollarhobbyz don't carry Teknos....
#455
I don' have a EB48 buggy but I run those on my hobao hyper 9e :
http://www.nitrohouse.com/Front-Univ...-2_p_8026.html
they are cheaper , thick and durable.
When you say 93mm, how do you measure it ?
http://www.nitrohouse.com/Front-Univ...-2_p_8026.html
they are cheaper , thick and durable.
When you say 93mm, how do you measure it ?
#456
Finishing my build today. Went super smooth, looks like an awesome kit.
Quick question: done everything exactly like the manual says and have sobe rear positive camber. Strange. Anybody had this issue?
Quick question: done everything exactly like the manual says and have sobe rear positive camber. Strange. Anybody had this issue?
#457
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
Rear camber is just adjustable by the camber links. They probably just updated mounting positions as compared to the length of the camber link at some point when doing the manual. Simply adjust the links until you get to desired camber. I would suggest starting around 2 degrees and adjust from there (I'm currently running 3 degrees on almost all tracks).
#458
Sure, I'll adjust, just wanted to start with the stock setup and tune from that point.
Cant't wait to get in to track, the build was my best exprience so far after RC8.2e and 8ight 3.0e. Everything seems so well planned. I am mounting xerun combo HW150a + 4068 2250kv sensored motor with 16T pinion, did a great job in my previous buggies.
Cant't wait to get in to track, the build was my best exprience so far after RC8.2e and 8ight 3.0e. Everything seems so well planned. I am mounting xerun combo HW150a + 4068 2250kv sensored motor with 16T pinion, did a great job in my previous buggies.
#459
Im not sure if this has been asked, is there a underdrive gearing? If so, how would go about it. Part numbers if possible. Thanks
#460
Any updates on that Tekno setup guide?
#461
There isn't a dedicated under drive gear set, but you can do it using the ring and pinion gears from the ET48 truggy in the back of the buggy. It will cause a larger front / rear gear split than the under drive sets on some other brand cars. I have used it on very, very low grip surfaces with some success. If the grip comes up at all, it gets undrivable pretty quick. That was on my eb48.2. I have not tried it on the .3
#462
Thanks, for answering my question.
#463
Tech Regular
Having had two full practice days on my EB 48.3, I can safely say this is the most fun I have had with an off-road rc vehicle. Two eight hour days burning packs and tweaking the stock setup and I have hit lvc on every single pack and it isn't from lack of run time, I am just having so much fun I lose track of time.
The stock setup was fairly poor for my medium sized, high bite indoor clay track, it seemed more suited for a large outdoor medium bite track that was fairly bumpy. I finally got some springs, sway bars and about five different set of tires to see if I could get this buggy rotating better on and off power and more settled for our track conditions. Although a couple of the faster 1/8th guys didn't show up, I was able to put down some much faster and far more consistent lap times with this current setup.
Still plenty more things to try out and work on to get the buggy even more dialed in, too many things to try and not enough time in the day to try them all. I did change out the-
spring package, F-Green, R-Yellow.
Sway bar F-24mm, R-23mm.
Droop F-115mm, R-127.
Camber -2 all corners.
Ride height F-25, R-27.
1 added washer to bumpsteer.
Front Shocker tower all the way in on top all the way out on bottom.
Rear Shock tower Second hole from all they in on top and inside hole on bottom.
Diff Fluids, F7K-M10K-R4K
Due to a fairly smooth, high traction track, I lengthened all camber links and they are all angled.
I really love how this chassis takes tuning changes and the effects are immediately noticed. Some settings required a couple attempts to get what I wanted from them, the camber links to some time moving them out in steps. In the end I got a good balance of on and off power steering while keeping the ass end of the buggy tracking straight whether grabbing a fist-full of throttle or slamming on the brakes diving into a corner. It was pretty nice hearing quite a few comments on how dialed my buggy looked. Even though I still consider myself a novice driver, this buggy is making me feel real comfortable and that is allowing me to drive it harder and faster with every battery pack run.
The stock setup was fairly poor for my medium sized, high bite indoor clay track, it seemed more suited for a large outdoor medium bite track that was fairly bumpy. I finally got some springs, sway bars and about five different set of tires to see if I could get this buggy rotating better on and off power and more settled for our track conditions. Although a couple of the faster 1/8th guys didn't show up, I was able to put down some much faster and far more consistent lap times with this current setup.
Still plenty more things to try out and work on to get the buggy even more dialed in, too many things to try and not enough time in the day to try them all. I did change out the-
spring package, F-Green, R-Yellow.
Sway bar F-24mm, R-23mm.
Droop F-115mm, R-127.
Camber -2 all corners.
Ride height F-25, R-27.
1 added washer to bumpsteer.
Front Shocker tower all the way in on top all the way out on bottom.
Rear Shock tower Second hole from all they in on top and inside hole on bottom.
Diff Fluids, F7K-M10K-R4K
Due to a fairly smooth, high traction track, I lengthened all camber links and they are all angled.
I really love how this chassis takes tuning changes and the effects are immediately noticed. Some settings required a couple attempts to get what I wanted from them, the camber links to some time moving them out in steps. In the end I got a good balance of on and off power steering while keeping the ass end of the buggy tracking straight whether grabbing a fist-full of throttle or slamming on the brakes diving into a corner. It was pretty nice hearing quite a few comments on how dialed my buggy looked. Even though I still consider myself a novice driver, this buggy is making me feel real comfortable and that is allowing me to drive it harder and faster with every battery pack run.
#464
Just finished my build.
It was great, but I made a mistake, the winter is coming and I'll get this beauty to track in 5-6 months...
It was great, but I made a mistake, the winter is coming and I'll get this beauty to track in 5-6 months...
Last edited by stanson; 10-12-2015 at 12:16 PM.