I used trans/oil and my mechanic went off his head it did not burn and got stuck in the top of piston/I use singer machine oil get with grocers I hate pulling things /my dad said if it ant broke don't fix it///but I only race for fun and I have engines that are 10 years old I fill them up and put them back in the box

Greg:

I did some experimenting myself on this to kill my own curiosity on the subject.

Late last year i decided to try after run fuel for myself and compare it against my normal use After Run Oil. Remembering that the two main ingredient in our model fuel Methanol and NitroMethane are both hygroscopic and attract moisture into your model engine. I made up a litre of after-run fuel with 10% Castor as had all the ingredients at my disposal. I ran a bit through the tank at the end of our practice day on Sunday afternoon, it was hard to keep the engine running but I persisted until the note of the engine changed and fuel line was empty. Then pulled the engine down when I got home to flush it out like I normally would with brake cleaner.

Have to say the after-run fuel with the castor oil covered a lot more of the internals then what I was getting with a bit of after run oil straight down the glow plug hole and giving it a bump. You could still see droplets of Methanol but it was sitting on top off the oil layer itself. I don’t know that I would like to leave it sit like this for a long time before I pulled it down and flushed it out as castor oil will dry out, but in the short term it seems to be okay.

BB
#MissMooRC

you know me you put the engine in and when it blows plugs you pull it out I all ways fill the engine up threw the carbie a lot of oil and leve it alone because I am a carpenter now a engine person I would brake more bits than just leving it alone

Understand Greg... if i was still racing nitro the easiest and quickest way is still ARO. Now i just need to work out what is the equivalent to a HSN on this 17.5t motor i will be happy

The best after run is Auto Tranmission fluid!!! Cheap and useful, buy a quart in gas station and use it for many yrs.

ATF's shelf life is 5years even in sealed condition

GMK "AfterLife" ARO is safe for filled cranks. I've used it for a long time.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...gmk0116/p12719

If you have a non-filled crank, I just use Mobil-1 full synthetic motor oil. $5 for a quart will last years....

mobil1 do not contain solvent,should safe on silicon fill

Keep it simple and use the Hudy after run oil.... It will not mess the putty up.....