Afterrun oil OR afterrun fuel, what is best?
 

Hi guys,

I have been reading up on afterrun fuel and some say that afterrun oil better protects the engine...but then ppl say that afterrun oil can damage rubbers and seals.

What is best and why? I am currently using Podified afterrun fuel.

Thank you

I think you have nothing to lose by using ARO. Although I'm pretty positive that it isn't needed after a quality fuel is used, I still use it for precaution. It's not a problem for me to pop off the air filter and pour some ARO. My engines have always looked perfectly clean inside and I didn't notice rubber damage. What you must take care of is that your ARO doesn't damage the silicone insert in the crankshaft (if you have it). Most of the RC AROs should be safe to use

Do yourself a favor and go buy 1L of Automatic Transmission Fluid from any auto shop (the red stuff).

I pull apart my engines after every meet, rinse and clean the internals with methylated spirits, then use ATF to lube it up as I assemble it back together.

Been using this method for years with excellent results. You will find most of the "After run oils" available on the RC market is infact ATF.

Thanks Michael...I have plenty of ATF as I only serviced my auto in my car last week :)

Is the silicone insert the piece that sits directly under the carby port on the crank at a 45 degree angle? I did notice on another engine that this is slightly decayed...what are the consequences of this and can this be repaired or nothing to really worry about?

If in doubt rip it out. I used someone elses ARO once, the next day at a major meet, red crap started coming out the pipe and the engine died a sudden death. Later to be found, the silicone insert had separated and shot out the back and wedge in the intake ports.

Removed the said silicon, cleaned the engine and ran it without, didnt notice much of a difference really and I think we still have that engine and runs well.

PS:: Marko, scuff clean some steel with a pad or wet and dry, make a place for one drop of after run, another for one drop of fuel and another for one drop of fuel and after run. Come back the next day and inspect. Ensure there's no adverse reaction with the fuel and ATF/ARO and you'll be fine. I use a gear oil with anti-oxidising written on the front of the bottle if that means anything. So it doenst have to be ATF, it's the fact that many driver have found it works.

I had use atf for 8years,so far didn't facing any problem

What is the role of the silicone pad and why is it silicone? Does it disburse the fuel better when it drops from the carby?

its to deliver the fuel at a quicker rate if im not mistaken.. qucker throttle response.. and therefore getting you where needed.. right away :) ;)

Actually is for filling the crankshaft with a less heavy material than its original steel giving less rotational weight for faster RPMs

mmm ok well thats not exactly what ive heard but could be both.. the copper weights i know provide a more consistent rotational mass.. as it goes round.. which ads response to the engine and delivery of power... the epoxy filling as far as ive heard and read is.. assisting delivery of fuel.. but could well do what you say.. assisting what the copper inserts do at the rear..

Give it a name/function and 99% of the drivers do believe it. You will know the real difference when you have tried both.

Basically the silicone insert is simplifying the production proces with as result a lighter crankshaft. I run my modified 5T engines with no silicone insert just as fast as any other high end engine containing all kind of crap gimmics.

i beleive you on this one - thanks for the feedback :)
how did u remove the silicone, with a flat head screw driver?

check this out...i bought this matrix tr arena truggy back in 2006 & i havent used it for 9yrs (shameful i know), anyway, i dropped ARO in it down the glow plug & cranked it over a few times & pretty much left it as is in a moisture environment.

today i decided to pull apart the engine & here are the pics - i didnt wipe down or clean the engine - no rust or corrosion whatsoever which i find amazing!

AFO obviously works :)

Roelof's N5T is good! Just as fast as anything out there, you can take budget engines and playing with port area/timing and crank timing, some fuel flowing and you can gain a lot! But you need to do the research first.