It should be fine, but if it's an issue you could just remove 0.5mm off the plastic tt02 servo mounts/posts with some sandpaper

do u mean shave off from the servo because its the servo that is a bit too tall. the width is 21mm, 0.5mm longer than the maximum 20.5mm. the width of the servo translate to the height since the servo is installed with the larger side parallel to the chassis.

If it's the height just fit a 0.5mm shim under each of the servo posts and you will be fine

i installed the battery mount and urethra bumper. the screws BA2 that are holding them, i can keep turning forever it seems. that means i cannot tighten the screws till it cannot tighten anymore because i can keep turning them. is this normal though it is very secure?

it's normal with all the soft flexible plastics they use on the bumpers and suspension arms.

This happens to a lot of people.
Therefor i've Always did the following solution, before turning the screw in you'll have to turn the screw anti-clockwise.
When you do this you will feel the screw popping in the thread that's been there before unscrewing the screw out of the chassis or other parts.
When you feel the screw has popped into the thread then you can thighten the screw.
The next step is also very importand to do.
When you thighten the screw you'll need to focus on the feeling when you are thightning the screw into the chassis or other parts.
When you are experiencing that you'll need to add extra force for fully thighten the screw is the moment you'll need to stop thightning the screw.
it's possible that you still can thighten the screw for another fourth of a full turn but that's in most cases more then enough to stop thightning.
When you keep this in mind you will be able to use the same parts or chassis for a very long time.
I have never stripped one hole of my TT-02 chassis, just by doing that what i've discribed above.

oh yes, i have been using this method too to ensure the screw sits in properly before tightening. just don't remember coming across screws that can keep turning forever. thank all for the assurance.

but how to tell when to stop tightening? i do not feel much resistance that is why i get the feeling i can keep turning forever if i wanted to.

That's mostly the case when the screws are already over tightened, you'll need to do this carefully when assembling the car for the first time.

Hi everyone, I have a question regarding the difference between the TT02 and TT02D.

I'm looking to build a TT02 chassis to use for rally, and the D version seems like a better deal as it comes with bearings and oil shocks. The only issue, is that in the instructions, it says that it cannot be configured in the "high" ground clearance mode. I'm trying to find the difference in parts, but I can't see why this isn't possible. From what I can tell, the rear suspension seems to be the limiting factor, as the instructions show the rear hubs in the "high" position and the front in the "low" position.

Is the limiting factor the length of the oil shocks?

Thanks for the help!

This is my TT02s, will be using it in our Tamiya Cup next year. The best upgrade I've done is the alu steering, the stock steering has a lot of slop, now there is almost non.

Tamiya hopups so far on the car;
- Alu Sterring
- TRF Shocks
- Alu shaft
- Alu motor mount
- Speed gear set
- Front drive shafts from a 416 (original shafts tend to come out if you hit something hard)

Cool I like your hop-ups. Here's my type-s

High speed gear set
Aluminum shaft and joints
Xv-01 front cvds
Tt01 bumper holder




I don't thing my layout is TCS legal though. I was trying to cut weight with this layout. 1414g ready to roll.

My TT02 Type S is broadly the same spec as yours, with a couple of extra tweaks:

TRF double cardan front driveshafts (44mm bones replaced by 42mm).
TRF dampers (#42102 as the Short Dampers run the car too low).
RM01 servo mounts to bring the steering link more in line.
#54580 carbon reinforced 4 degree front hubs.
TRF419 steering arms.
Rebound stoppers (to allow use of droop screws).

This car owes me a small fortune but honestly I built it because I could, going out and buying a TRF417v5 or 418 would've made much more sense but wouldn't have been half as much fun.

Next upgrades will be ball diffs to try to allow more regulated distribution of the power. I'm running in a control class at the moment hence the brushed motor but the normal power plant is a 17.5 non-boosted brushless. The Type S is a great chassis.

Some really cool looking TT02's there. I am in the middle of making a TT02-S race spec. I also recently got the TT02D Type-S which has more goodies than the std TYPE-S but is the same price!

http://www.thercracer.com/2015/09/ta...build-and.html

The tt02d type-s seems to be the biggest bang for the buck. I definitely would have bought that over the regular type-s. One thing I have to say is there is a ton of plastic parts left over from the type-s build. Glad I have the tt02r to use the bunch plastic for spares. So far I've only busted the steering arms. I ordered the aluminium bits to replace them on both kits. I wanted to build the type-s for tcs novice race so my son can participate. He will be 10 next year and he's getting good at getting around the track without hitting the boards. I don't know what kind of car the R will be yet.

Forgive me if this is a stupid question...what is the difference between the tt02 and the tt02ya?
I want the zakspeed capri and tower has two versions and they are not too clear on what is different between the two kits.