Would this fit TT02 all around using stock plastic Dog Bone axle?
I want the +0 offset wheels to be flush with my NSX GT body since I had +3 HPI Volk TE37 that was flush but I would like to back to +0 wheels that has more varieties .
PLUS Chassis kit said C6 need for extended Axle hub with shaft instead
included C3 all around.
BUT no where i can find to purchase this C6 part, what's up with that!

On page 18 of the TT02 Type S Manual, they suggested to upgrade the front dog bones with item number 54515, a front universal shaft for the XV-01.

I am not sure of what hop up to use for the universal shaft in the rear. I came upon item number 54516, a rear universal shaft for the XV-01. Will this fit?

Since I am converting from a regular TT02 to a TT02 Type S, I am currently running the 53792 universal shaft assembly with the 54515 rear swing shafts. Will this fit too?

Thanks for you help!

The drive shafts for the front and rear of the TT02-S are 42mm, so in theory the universals should fit fine on both front and rear.

Would this fit TT02 all around using stock plastic Dog Bone axle?
I want the +0 offset wheels to be flush with my NSX GT body since I had +3 HPI Volk TE37 that was flush but I would like to back to +0 wheels that has more varieties .
PLUS Chassis kit said C6 need for extended Axle hub with shaft instead
included C3 all around.
BUT no where i can find to purchase this C6 part, what's up with that!

i am getting a servo for TT-02D type S chassis. based on the manuals, all 3 chassis TT-02, TT-02D and TT-02D type S have the same servo size requirements
width: < 20.5mm length: 38 - 41mm height: 12 - 16mm + < 30mm

am interested to get the ko propo 30205 BSX2-ONE10 RESPONSE servo.
but it has a dimension of 40.5×26×21mm. only the width is longer by 0.5 mm
will it fit?

It should be fine, but if it's an issue you could just remove 0.5mm off the plastic tt02 servo mounts/posts with some sandpaper

do u mean shave off from the servo because its the servo that is a bit too tall. the width is 21mm, 0.5mm longer than the maximum 20.5mm. the width of the servo translate to the height since the servo is installed with the larger side parallel to the chassis.

If it's the height just fit a 0.5mm shim under each of the servo posts and you will be fine

i installed the battery mount and urethra bumper. the screws BA2 that are holding them, i can keep turning forever it seems. that means i cannot tighten the screws till it cannot tighten anymore because i can keep turning them. is this normal though it is very secure?

it's normal with all the soft flexible plastics they use on the bumpers and suspension arms.

This happens to a lot of people.
Therefor i've Always did the following solution, before turning the screw in you'll have to turn the screw anti-clockwise.
When you do this you will feel the screw popping in the thread that's been there before unscrewing the screw out of the chassis or other parts.
When you feel the screw has popped into the thread then you can thighten the screw.
The next step is also very importand to do.
When you thighten the screw you'll need to focus on the feeling when you are thightning the screw into the chassis or other parts.
When you are experiencing that you'll need to add extra force for fully thighten the screw is the moment you'll need to stop thightning the screw.
it's possible that you still can thighten the screw for another fourth of a full turn but that's in most cases more then enough to stop thightning.
When you keep this in mind you will be able to use the same parts or chassis for a very long time.
I have never stripped one hole of my TT-02 chassis, just by doing that what i've discribed above.

oh yes, i have been using this method too to ensure the screw sits in properly before tightening. just don't remember coming across screws that can keep turning forever. thank all for the assurance.

but how to tell when to stop tightening? i do not feel much resistance that is why i get the feeling i can keep turning forever if i wanted to.

That's mostly the case when the screws are already over tightened, you'll need to do this carefully when assembling the car for the first time.

Hi everyone, I have a question regarding the difference between the TT02 and TT02D.

I'm looking to build a TT02 chassis to use for rally, and the D version seems like a better deal as it comes with bearings and oil shocks. The only issue, is that in the instructions, it says that it cannot be configured in the "high" ground clearance mode. I'm trying to find the difference in parts, but I can't see why this isn't possible. From what I can tell, the rear suspension seems to be the limiting factor, as the instructions show the rear hubs in the "high" position and the front in the "low" position.

Is the limiting factor the length of the oil shocks?

Thanks for the help!

This is my TT02s, will be using it in our Tamiya Cup next year. The best upgrade I've done is the alu steering, the stock steering has a lot of slop, now there is almost non.

Tamiya hopups so far on the car;
- Alu Sterring
- TRF Shocks
- Alu shaft
- Alu motor mount
- Speed gear set
- Front drive shafts from a 416 (original shafts tend to come out if you hit something hard)