Are you referring to the upper damper stay (tower)? I just ordered a pair for my V2 the other day, the carbon fiber ones front and rear.

Which leads to my next step. I want to REDUCE the rear toe-in on my V2 to allow more rotation.

A stock 101BK has bullet connectors for the motor wiring (Orange is positive, Blue is negative). Simply extend the Orange and Blue wires from the 101BK and solder them to the appropriate + and - terminals on the new motor. To extend the motor wires from the ESC, the easiest way is to cut off the bullet connectors and solder on extension wires to the 101BK. Remember to install heat shrink insulation on the solder connections when extending wires.

if you stay in the RC hobby for any length of time, you will become an expert at soldering...

No I'm just getting a brushed LRP F1. Pretty decent looking motor for the price. It should draw 22 amps @ 167 watts (the motor rating). Do I just use the esc wires already on the esc I have?? The teu101bk is rated at 60A so I'm good there...hopefully lol

Ok that was what I was thinking hprt. Any special soldering tips...first timer here lol mine is soldered to my silver tin can already too.... bullet connectors are gone

Oh ok, cool about the brushed. I would verify the number of turns the 101BK can handle. I thought they were only good to about a SportTuned motor (23turns)?

BTW, you might want to get a glitch capacitor if you encounter radio problems as the TEU101BK's BEC is kinda weak.
I know cause that's what I run on my M03. I'm going to swap it out with a TBLE02-S later on as I only run silver cans myself..

As for soldering, get a 50W or higher soldering iron. 25w is too low and can damage your motor and ESC, even DEANS connectors as it takes too long to heat up the terminals. I use a 60/40 rosin core solder.

What's the deal with the turns. The new motor is a 16T motor. Why can it only handles so many turns?

Current draw. 16turn brushed is quite fast for m-chassis. Might be happy running 27turn brushed (old "stock" motor). Still much faster than silver can.

Why not go with the SportTuned motor? Easy, maintenance free besides oiling, and faster than silver can.

Do you have a comm lathe? If not I recommend you go with the SportTuned.

I may take your advice on this because of maintenance reasons. I want a faster car but not so that the gears die every month. What type of oiling would you do for this

The key to soldering is making the joint quickly to minimize the heat affected zone - ie: you don't want to overheat the adjacent components which will risk damaging them. In order to make the solder joint quickly, it is essential to have the right equipment and to prepare the two components being connected.

From an equipment perspective, you need the right iron for the job. If you are soldering components with a large metal area, like the terminals on a speed control with direct connects to the circuit board, you need either a large wattage iron, or one with a medium to large tip that can hold a lot of heat. The wattage of the iron really determines how quickly the tip will heat up, or how quickly the iron will replace the heat transferred to the components. Lower wattage, larger tip works the same as large wattage, smaller tip. For solder, use a good rosin core 60/40 lead-tin thin gauge solder.

make sure that the points of connection are bare and clean, then tin both components to be joined before soldering them together. Keep the tip of your soldering iron clean too, as this helps in quickly transferring heat to the components to be soldered. If you are holding the soldering iron onto the components for more than 20-30 seconds to get the solder to flow, your iron is either not hot enough or not powerful enough.

I hate to say it, but your best reference is to watch a couple videos on youtube.

A 16t motor won't destroy gears. It has less torque but more speed. I suppose if you crashed into things at that higher speed, there could be some increased "wear". A comm lathe is completely unnecessary, unless your racing and trying to squeeze the last nth from you motor. Keep it clean, it'll be fine.

Sakadachi,there are several things that will help the back of you car loosen up. Reduced toe is just one. There's also stiffer springs, narrower track (not wider), harder tires, slightly higher ride height...lots of little tricks.

Scott, are you on vacation? You're awfully chatty right now.

Fewer turns = More torque, higher free-running RPM (Kv rating).

This is assuming the armature or stator is at or near 100% copper (wire) fill.

As with the silver cans, I just put a drop of bearing oil on the motor bushings from time to time.

Also the Voodoo drops Granpa mentioned cleans the comm so I use that every now and then as well, but not required.

The SportTuned has less torque but higher RPM, which is a good match for these FWD M-chassis for bashing in low to moderate traction surfaces. And they run pretty much forever with little maintenance.

Thanks, yes, I know. I already tried all that less the harder tires. When you see my SabreFD Mini drive around the track you'd want your car to turn like it does with its stability. The M03 is closest out of my other FWD, but still top heavy. I want that one little extra tweak on the M03 to get at least the similar cornering speed even if it's close to the chassis's limit of losing it all.

My V2 has a lot of work to do.. Thought it was fast until I started messing with the Sabre.

Gears typically only die when you impact them - just don't hit stuff and the gears will last a while.

using a decent quality, hard coated pinion gear, like the Tamiya 53509, will extend your gear life significantly. Yeah racing also makes one - just be sure you use 0.6 module pinions.

As for the limits of the 101BK ESC, I have personally used it with 19t and 27t brushed open endbell motors. it hit the thermal shutoff about 3 minutes into a 5 minute race with the 19t, but no problems on the 27t. Bashing, you might be OK with the 16t, but the ESC will likely get rather warm - definitely will not be able to run back-to-back without waiting for it to cool down.

First time in the last 5 years that I don't have much to do at work. My team has it covered...