I really don't know what you're looking for, but $20 for a set of rims seems a bit much. There may be others who could weigh in.

Curious tho, are you also planning on gluing one side of the tires????? Seems to work for someone and I'm not going to argue with him about it. It doesn't pay to disagree. Get accused of all sorts of crap if you do.

No Granpa, I didn't go this past weekend. It was well past due for sure.

I didn't either. I was going to make some changes to adjust the set up, but since they resurfaced, I'm going to leave it alone. I still have at least 5 sets of glued tires and am going to run those before switching to the no glue sets.

Oh, Grandpa. You're going to love this new no-glue rule. Traction role all over! New surface helps a little, but even white springs won't keep it on all four. Best I could do was 2-wheel the corners and hope it wouldn't hook or flip! Even Chuck saw air time. We need you out here...

Sounds like fun. I've got my workbench buried under a bunch of junk. That's another name for my wife's stuff as opposed to "good stuff", which is mine. I'll make a scouting trip out Saturday just to check out the new surface and see what's happening with the 21.5s. What's the "hot" esc now or will my old BLZ get me by?????

Feeling a little stronger now cause my last radiation treatment was 2 weeks ago. Maybe will work up the energy to finish my last project. Anyway, i'll see what you guys have been up to and pick some brains and compare notes.

Here's the simple stand I made. Just a Futaba servo/receiver box with 2 balsa wood stuck on there with double sided tape.



The balsa wood prevents any scratches and also any rocking from the angled bottom. Picture of M03 from the front.

Here's what my wheels and foam inside looks like. I worked on this today while I was waiting for my batteries to charge.



Here is the finished picture of the used wheels I removed the tires from.



The tools I used. Olfa box cutter and small long nose. Nothing else.



As you can see, both the wheels and inserts are in good condition.
This is why I reuse them. Not a suggestion!

He'll no...gluing both sides lol. My preference tho. But Ummm mm. How much should a set of 4 rims cost. Mind you the exchange on the Canadian dollar right now is murdering me. And this just happened lol.....took the foam out...tried to remove the rubber from rim...the rims broke and the one was cracked from impact from crashing. So another lesson learned is to not drive like a nut job and appreciate the road and how harsh it can be. I've really beat the living hell outta this thing so I'm gonna start to take better care of it.

I can't upload pics man 😂

Ya i would love to be able to do that. Only gluing one side tho lol. I glue both sides but I think I put way toooo much glue on them. And I smashed the living **** out of them so.....not doing that next time. Working on finesse now lol

Yeah, it does take some level of finesse to do the work, but it's not difficult to do if you're pretty good with a knife.

Definitely glue both sides as needed. The tires I removed today came off a CupRacer (4WD). On that car I glued both sides on the front, but the rear was only glued on the face side. No issue throughout the life of the tires.

Keep forgetting about the non USA thing. If I'm gluing my own, I'll use the #51362--18 spoke chrome rim or the #51394---11 spoke white rim. They are $6 or 7 in the US. The premounts #1016 are $35 which really is the cost of the components, but do suggest you buy the components and glue your own. That way you can use contact cement to glue the ends of the inserts to avoid the insert problem the premounts have.

I know you did not ask, but I generally put everything together, work everything smooth then put a rubber band towards the side of the tire to be glued. I use the rubber band that the produce people use on broccoli. It's a good size and is a bit stronger than most. I use the regular thickness glue and work my way around the wheel by pulling the tire back, adding glue and proceeding around the wheel. The rubber band will pop the tire back into place or you can work it back if it doesn't. The regular thickness glue will give you the time to do this. I like the Losi brand but most regular will work. The thin runs all over and sets too quick.

As far as sources go, I primarily use TQracing and Stormer Hobbies. I think both will ship to Canada, but don't know about the tax situation. I think Monkeyracing is partial to TQ also.

I pull back the tire bead, drop just regular ca I bought at Target (CrazyGlue?) and press gently allowing capillary action to do its work. I can usually get about 75-90 degrees applied with one drop of ca. Rotate tire in my hand and repeat. At the very end I stream a light application along the bead 360 degrees.

Then as Granpa mentioned, rubber band for 10min or so.

Nope. It's the saber rattling thread.


Not sure what reinforced rims you're looking at, but if they're the carbon ones, look elsewhere. They're exceptionally brittle. Save your money, it's enough I wasted mine.

Them ones:

https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radi...r-wheels-53341

Avoid.

Actually I did work on my SabreFD Mini today. I changed rear camber to -1.2 and the rear has finally stabilized to my liking.

I also added one wheel weight on the right side of the chassis next to the motor the other day. Excellent advise by Calvin to add weight to the front.

I'm real happy with how the car runs. But my V2 is still smoother (and quieter!) and is the king for me.