Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
#1531
By using the outer holes, the piston speed increases because the leverage angle changes on the shock. This makes the smaller 8 hole shock have too much pack in high speed sections. You would have to run a lighter oil to achieve the same dampening effect. The larger holes allow more oil to pass through, but maintain just enough pack in the shock. It is more suited to outdoor or tracks that can get rough.
#1532
I'm running the exact same set-up; I'm curious what oil weights and springs you are running? I'm using the stock pink spring in the front, but have gone up to the green rear spring. I'm running 375cst front and 275cst rear and I still think the suspension is too soft as I'm getting the nose down off of certain jumps. I think I need to go up in oil weight. My EB48.2 uses the 6x1.5 pistons with 450cst front and 350cst rear, but its a heavier vehicle. I'm using the 2nd shortest camber link which seems to be a good balance of keeping the rear end behind the truck on power, yet allows the truck to rotate through turns. I'm just not happy with how it jumps and lands.
And those stock plastic shock collar/pre-load adjusters are junk. They need an o-ring on the inside or something. They spin soo freely that they move during a race.
And those stock plastic shock collar/pre-load adjusters are junk. They need an o-ring on the inside or something. They spin soo freely that they move during a race.
#1533
By using the outer holes, the piston speed increases because the leverage angle changes on the shock. This makes the smaller 8 hole shock have too much pack in high speed sections. You would have to run a lighter oil to achieve the same dampening effect. The larger holes allow more oil to pass through, but maintain just enough pack in the shock. It is more suited to outdoor or tracks that can get rough.
#1534
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 855
From: Kingsport, TN (Still SC tho)
Stock front setup, Green rears and AE 27.5 oil. You can really change flight attitude with how you approach the jump. Ive found that if its kicking over on a jump, I can roll the throttle to the jump, and as soon as the truck leaves the ground just blip it to full. Usually hitting the jump at full speed is just too much. One tip I can give you on the collars, take an xacto blade and rough up the threads a bit. Get the plastic to fray and it will cause it to bind up a bit more.
#1535
I'm running the exact same set-up; I'm curious what oil weights and springs you are running? I'm using the stock pink spring in the front, but have gone up to the green rear spring. I'm running 375cst front and 275cst rear and I still think the suspension is too soft as I'm getting the nose down off of certain jumps. I think I need to go up in oil weight. My EB48.2 uses the 6x1.5 pistons with 450cst front and 350cst rear, but its a heavier vehicle. I'm using the 2nd shortest camber link which seems to be a good balance of keeping the rear end behind the truck on power, yet allows the truck to rotate through turns. I'm just not happy with how it jumps and lands.
And those stock plastic shock collar/pre-load adjusters are junk. They need an o-ring on the inside or something. They spin soo freely that they move during a race.
And those stock plastic shock collar/pre-load adjusters are junk. They need an o-ring on the inside or something. They spin soo freely that they move during a race.
Pink is one stiffer than Black. And one softer than Green.
#1536
I've never had an issue with my collars moving at all. Mine definitely aren't loose.
You guys are saying "outside hole". That really doesn't say anything, unless you state where your shocks are mounted on the tower. Outside hole on the arm for one person, may be working great... But for somebody else it may not. It all depends on the inside tower mount in conjunction with the Arm hole.
You guys are saying "outside hole". That really doesn't say anything, unless you state where your shocks are mounted on the tower. Outside hole on the arm for one person, may be working great... But for somebody else it may not. It all depends on the inside tower mount in conjunction with the Arm hole.
#1537
I've never had an issue with my collars moving at all. Mine definitely aren't loose.
You guys are saying "outside hole". That really doesn't say anything, unless you state where your shocks are mounted on the tower. Outside hole on the arm for one person, may be working great... But for somebody else it may not. It all depends on the inside tower mount in conjunction with the Arm hole.
You guys are saying "outside hole". That really doesn't say anything, unless you state where your shocks are mounted on the tower. Outside hole on the arm for one person, may be working great... But for somebody else it may not. It all depends on the inside tower mount in conjunction with the Arm hole.
#1540
There is a list for the SCT410 (not the .3) but I haven't checked it against the new kit so there might be something extra or missing. I pulled it from the first post of the SCT410 thread-
From MattP-
I just made a list of all the screws, washers and nuts needed to convert a Tekno ride over to all aluminum screws. I listed the stock replacement Tekno screw part number first with details beside each. Only screws I did not list for an aluminum swap are the diff screws holding the ring/spur on to the diff. That's a high load bearing screw and steel is a better choice there.
Tekno Screw List:
Tekno #1523 3x10mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1529 3x20mm Cap Head 20
Tekno #1341 4x6mm Flat Head 6
Tekno #1525 3x14mm Cap Head 18
Tekno #1524 3x12mm Cap Head 10
Tekno #1333 3x40mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1327 3x16mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1443 4x10mm Button Head 11
Tekno #1522 3x8mm Cap Head 9
Tekno #1445 4x14mm Button Head 6
Tekno #1447 4x16mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1401 3x6mm Button Head 8
Tekno #1448 4x18mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1343 4x10mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1322 3x8mm Flat Head 11
Tekno #1344 4x12mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1346 4x15mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1325 3x14mm Flat Head 3
Tekno #1407 3x16mm Button Head 1
3x8mm Washer 20
4x9mm Washer 2
3mm Locknuts 20
3mm Flanged Locknuts 8
#1541
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 30
From: London
I don't have a list of the screws but if you look in the manual you can see all of the screws and where they go. If you're putting together an aluminum or titanium kit viewing the manual is the way to do it because you can decide which screws to keep steel (the high stress ones).
There is a list for the SCT410 (not the .3) but I haven't checked it against the new kit so there might be something extra or missing. I pulled it from the first post of the SCT410 thread-
From MattP-
I just made a list of all the screws, washers and nuts needed to convert a Tekno ride over to all aluminum screws. I listed the stock replacement Tekno screw part number first with details beside each. Only screws I did not list for an aluminum swap are the diff screws holding the ring/spur on to the diff. That's a high load bearing screw and steel is a better choice there.
Tekno Screw List:
Tekno #1523 3x10mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1529 3x20mm Cap Head 20
Tekno #1341 4x6mm Flat Head 6
Tekno #1525 3x14mm Cap Head 18
Tekno #1524 3x12mm Cap Head 10
Tekno #1333 3x40mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1327 3x16mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1443 4x10mm Button Head 11
Tekno #1522 3x8mm Cap Head 9
Tekno #1445 4x14mm Button Head 6
Tekno #1447 4x16mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1401 3x6mm Button Head 8
Tekno #1448 4x18mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1343 4x10mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1322 3x8mm Flat Head 11
Tekno #1344 4x12mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1346 4x15mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1325 3x14mm Flat Head 3
Tekno #1407 3x16mm Button Head 1
3x8mm Washer 20
4x9mm Washer 2
3mm Locknuts 20
3mm Flanged Locknuts 8
There is a list for the SCT410 (not the .3) but I haven't checked it against the new kit so there might be something extra or missing. I pulled it from the first post of the SCT410 thread-
From MattP-
I just made a list of all the screws, washers and nuts needed to convert a Tekno ride over to all aluminum screws. I listed the stock replacement Tekno screw part number first with details beside each. Only screws I did not list for an aluminum swap are the diff screws holding the ring/spur on to the diff. That's a high load bearing screw and steel is a better choice there.
Tekno Screw List:
Tekno #1523 3x10mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1529 3x20mm Cap Head 20
Tekno #1341 4x6mm Flat Head 6
Tekno #1525 3x14mm Cap Head 18
Tekno #1524 3x12mm Cap Head 10
Tekno #1333 3x40mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1327 3x16mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1443 4x10mm Button Head 11
Tekno #1522 3x8mm Cap Head 9
Tekno #1445 4x14mm Button Head 6
Tekno #1447 4x16mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1401 3x6mm Button Head 8
Tekno #1448 4x18mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1343 4x10mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1322 3x8mm Flat Head 11
Tekno #1344 4x12mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1346 4x15mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1325 3x14mm Flat Head 3
Tekno #1407 3x16mm Button Head 1
3x8mm Washer 20
4x9mm Washer 2
3mm Locknuts 20
3mm Flanged Locknuts 8
#1543
Hey guys, thought I would go on and post this short video. It was a practice day working on tightening the truck up for outdoors. Just changed to 6x1.5, stock front and green rear springs, 35/30 AE oil.
http://youtu.be/IQdmtvOrkD4
http://youtu.be/IQdmtvOrkD4
#1544
Tech Regular
iTrader: (36)
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 413
Hey guys, thought I would go on and post this short video. It was a practice day working on tightening the truck up for outdoors. Just changed to 6x1.5, stock front and green rear springs, 35/30 AE oil.
http://youtu.be/IQdmtvOrkD4
http://youtu.be/IQdmtvOrkD4
#1545
Not sure on shock location at that time, I was moving things around a bit. The green springs took out some roll and kept the truck from hooking mid and corner exit. The pistons took some pack out and helped through the bumps. Haven't got to try it on larger jumps though.





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