Ok, so I am looking into the differential replacement upgrade to a ball differential and Ive read some things about different brands. Is the 3 racing ball diff not so good?? Which is the best and TOUGHEST diff that wont break and consistently put out good performance??? I'm looking at Tamiya's diff but is it that much different and worth the extra coins? Anyone have experience with more than one brand of these ball diffs and the best way to assemble? First time replacing a diff so any help would be good on why other brands are worse than Tamiya. Just trying to get as much intel I can to make a good purchase.

And for the update on the spur gear I destroyed today....NO SPARE lol.... so we are decomissioned until further repairs (will be getting the black reinforced gears to sakadachi) lol stupid curb

I raced at FastCats a few times(3 hr. drive). Mini was my favorite class, but it died out, especially after the TCS died . I race VTA & USGT now.

St. Catharines has a decent Mini class.

The 3Racing M06 gear diff(yes it fits the M05) is a good unit. Mine haven't been apart in several seasons & still feel good.

Too bad you don't live closer or I could give you a couple spur gears. I usually bend the teeth on the layshaft gear.

Where are you around?

Monkeyracing is a 2000+ mile drive from Oakville. I think he's in the Calgary area.

I'm in Courtright, near Sarnia.

I've heard some whispers of the new M05 VerII chassis potentially having a weak spot in it. Can anyone confirm this? The couple of people I spoke to mentioned something about them cracking in a particular area and that they had seen some info on this forum about it.

It's been mentioned more than a few times. There are tips a few pages back that can help, if you're particularly rough on your car. I crash the crap out of mine and haven't had a problem.

I'm not especially rough with mine, but was just curious if there was something I needed to be on the lookout for. Was this related to the steering pivot posts?

No. The area under the motor/gearbox is a little thin. The M03 had a tendency to crack in the same place.

I've owned 3 M03's in the last 20 yrs(?), raced 2 of them frequently..none has cracked.

I think people are just running them too low.
No issue with my M05, V2, and any of my other chassis listed in my sig cracking. My typical ride height is near 10mm especially for outdoor driving, about 2x most people's ground clearance.

Hey monkey? ? Whereabouts are you located?

In the growling pits of hell Calgary Canada, as do I and Bonecrusher (Ivan). Its Stampede time, so he may not reply, as he has probably started drinking already today

10mm? well don't expect your suspension geometry to be doing you any favors, as well as the driveshafts working harder. Up here its minimum 5mm RH, so mine is always at 5mm. Considering how cheap the chassis parts cost, and the need to replace them anyhow, once your suspension mount holes wear, its not a major worry for me.

Only possibility for running much higher RH than 5mm would be to increase the COG to make the car transfer more weight quicker in the turns, which could **possibly** work on asphalt, but I seriously doubt that hey GP? Id call that a bandaid solution to a grip problem (which I have done from time to time!)