teguhfrmn87

PICCO TORQUE .12 EMX-WC

ToysRUsKid

iTrader: (16)

which pipe works best for the .21 EMX-WC?

Paolo M

For 25% you need to use 0.5mm of shims
For 16% you need to use 0.4mm of shims

Always Picco #6 plug.

Paolo M

You will find different opinons on this one..

For me #1 is the 2116 and #2 is the 2120

ToysRUsKid

iTrader: (16)

thanks!

Condor Speed

iTrader: (12)

Paolo in the case of using 25% do I add or remove the 0.5mm shim?

kyosho malaysia

You need to use total of 0.5mm shim

teguhfrmn87

So I need to add more of those shims? Because there are already 2 shims installed on the engine out of the box. Thanks

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

You have to keep adding shims to the cylinder head until you get a reasonable range of adjustment for air/fuel mixture, instead of immediately overheating if you lean it a little or immediately choking if you enrich it a little. Basically, if you have a super-narrow range of air/fuel adjustment, it means the compression is too high for the nitro content, and the cylinder head is getting so hot that you're having to run the engine right on the edge of choking just to keep it from overheating. The way to fix that is to add more shims to the cylinder head to reduce compression. (or use lower-nitro fuel, if you're okay with having to re-tune the engine more often when the weather changes.)

I run 30% nitro because the weather is highly variable where I live and I hate having to re-tune the engine every single time I take it outside, so I usually run 0.5-0.8mm in my cylinder-head shim stacks. It's not the greatest for bottom-end torque, but I compensate by lowering the first-gear (or only gear) ratio.

sanjit

iTrader: (3)

hey guys does the emx wc .21 comes pre run in ?? How do u recommend running in this engine thanks..

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

No. You need to do the break in.

The Picco engines run in really easily and quite quickly. Don't forget to pre-heat the engine. My method is run 1 tank wide open throttle very rich on the bench (rich so wheels don't turn at WOT). Then run the car rich on track for 5 tanks. Then each subsequent tank at 1/8 turn leaner until 95% race tune. Run like this for another 20 minutes then race tune. Thats it! It's a good idea to heat cycle the engine a few times during the break in period.

The LSN is set correctly from the factory and you shouldn't need to touch it during the break in period.

TeamCarnage

iTrader: (31)

After a gallon and a half, I put a new rod and wrist pin in. A very experienced racer..(ancient) suggested to run in the new rod by the blubbery rich, wheels not turning on the box for 2 tanks. Thoughts on this? I've always fattened up the engine for a few tanks and ran it around the track at about 75% off race tune. Love these engines! Want them to last!
It's a .12 EMX-WC if it matters.

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

Ive always been told to let it idle on the box for 1 tank, and Ive never had a problem doing it this way

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

If the piston and sleeve are already broken-in, then the rod isn't suffering too much, and you shouldn't really need to to any break-in for the rod at all. The brass bushing will conform to the microscopic contours of the crankshaft journal within a minute or so, and since brass is a relatively soft, self-polishing metal, it won't be producing any macroscopic metal shavings that might scrape up the piston or cylinder.

Really all you should need to do is oil the conrod bushings during installation, and then run the engine easy for a tank. Doesn't even need to be idling the whole time, just don't race it. Putter it around instead.

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

Umm...no, you do to break in the rod...