7Likes2013 Torque line by Picco
07-04-2015, 08:49 PM
#451
Only very slightly, hence why I said "run it easy for a tank". It certainly doesn't need to be blubbery-rich or idled the entire time.
A used engine is going to have some wear on the crankshaft journal, making it a smaller diameter than the rod bushing is intended for, so the fit will be looser than when the engine was brand-new. Because of this, there's no way a new rod in a used engine can possibly bind-up and suffer premature wear. Aside from conforming the brass bushing to the exact shape of the crank journal, there's nothing to break-in. It's not like the aluminum rod is going to benefit from heat-cycling or anything like that.
A used engine is going to have some wear on the crankshaft journal, making it a smaller diameter than the rod bushing is intended for, so the fit will be looser than when the engine was brand-new. Because of this, there's no way a new rod in a used engine can possibly bind-up and suffer premature wear. Aside from conforming the brass bushing to the exact shape of the crank journal, there's nothing to break-in. It's not like the aluminum rod is going to benefit from heat-cycling or anything like that.
07-05-2015, 11:25 AM
#452
Idling on the box isn't a good idea. It doesn't let enough heat build up. It's far better in my experience to run full rich WOT for 1 tank. This is also how Eduardo Picco does it.
07-05-2015, 07:36 PM
#453
how does that work? I have tried that approach, and if it is rich enough to rev to high, then the temp drops to 160 or less. is my ear too conservative on what is too high an rpm?
07-06-2015, 08:14 AM
#455
Tech Apprentice
Picco videos of break in and after run procedure etc.
vimeo.com/90534216
vimeo.com/90534216
07-06-2015, 02:36 PM
#456
Tech Fanatic
You need to measure the thickness of the shims.. If you have 2 shims in there, most likely each one of them is 0.2mm thick for a total of 0.4mm. You will need to add 1 shim of 0.1mm
07-06-2015, 02:42 PM
#457
Tech Fanatic
After a gallon and a half, I put a new rod and wrist pin in. A very experienced racer..(ancient) suggested to run in the new rod by the blubbery rich, wheels not turning on the box for 2 tanks. Thoughts on this? I've always fattened up the engine for a few tanks and ran it around the track at about 75% off race tune. Love these engines! Want them to last!
It's a .12 EMX-WC if it matters.
It's a .12 EMX-WC if it matters.
If the piston and sleeve are already broken-in, then the rod isn't suffering too much, and you shouldn't really need to to any break-in for the rod at all. The brass bushing will conform to the microscopic contours of the crankshaft journal within a minute or so, and since brass is a relatively soft, self-polishing metal, it won't be producing any macroscopic metal shavings that might scrape up the piston or cylinder.
Really all you should need to do is oil the conrod bushings during installation, and then run the engine easy for a tank. Doesn't even need to be idling the whole time, just don't race it. Putter it around instead.
Really all you should need to do is oil the conrod bushings during installation, and then run the engine easy for a tank. Doesn't even need to be idling the whole time, just don't race it. Putter it around instead.
Only very slightly, hence why I said "run it easy for a tank". It certainly doesn't need to be blubbery-rich or idled the entire time.
A used engine is going to have some wear on the crankshaft journal, making it a smaller diameter than the rod bushing is intended for, so the fit will be looser than when the engine was brand-new. Because of this, there's no way a new rod in a used engine can possibly bind-up and suffer premature wear. Aside from conforming the brass bushing to the exact shape of the crank journal, there's nothing to break-in. It's not like the aluminum rod is going to benefit from heat-cycling or anything like that.
A used engine is going to have some wear on the crankshaft journal, making it a smaller diameter than the rod bushing is intended for, so the fit will be looser than when the engine was brand-new. Because of this, there's no way a new rod in a used engine can possibly bind-up and suffer premature wear. Aside from conforming the brass bushing to the exact shape of the crank journal, there's nothing to break-in. It's not like the aluminum rod is going to benefit from heat-cycling or anything like that.
07-13-2015, 07:28 PM
#458
Ran the heck outta my .12 EMX-WC at the third leg of the MWS at Toledo. Run time is always an issue for me here, but after some tuning, engine was spot on and power was great!. Unfortunately, rain washed out sundays mains. Looking forward to Cincinnati in a few weeks. Then the GLC!
07-23-2015, 06:09 AM
#459
07-30-2015, 02:04 PM
#460
Tech Rookie
Also please can anyone tell me what are the factory needle settings for picco torque .21 EMX-WC?
Finally which is the appropriate race temp for this engine?
Many thanks for your help.
Best regards,
08-23-2015, 11:25 AM
#461
Tech Initiate
Hello
After some advice please What's the life time of the .21 ems wc ? I know it's a little dependant on its use but what's the general life span like?
Thanks
After some advice please What's the life time of the .21 ems wc ? I know it's a little dependant on its use but what's the general life span like?
Thanks
09-07-2015, 04:36 AM
#462
Tech Regular
What kind of track is the Picco 9185 - EFRA 2654 pipe tuned for? The pipe can be seen here:
http://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/c...85-p-6434.html
I don't see this pipe listed on http://www.teampicco.com/index.php/accessories/exhausts
http://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/c...85-p-6434.html
I don't see this pipe listed on http://www.teampicco.com/index.php/accessories/exhausts
04-28-2016, 10:46 AM
#463
Tech Adept
Picco Torque .21 EMX-3
Hi all fellow RC'ers
Could anyone be able to tell me the distance between mounting holes - from center to center - on the Torque .21 EMX-3 On-road engine?
This would be the distance from left to right when looking at the engine from the rear.
Could anyone be able to tell me the distance between mounting holes - from center to center - on the Torque .21 EMX-3 On-road engine?
This would be the distance from left to right when looking at the engine from the rear.
04-30-2016, 05:10 AM
#464
Tech Adept
Distance between holes is standard in all big block engines. Usually 1.4-1.5" or 37-38mm
04-30-2016, 09:18 AM
#465
Tech Adept
Picco Torque EMX-3
The reason why I ask is because I recently acquired a XRAY RX8 2013 Specs which requires the engine mounting holes to be <37.8mm, if the mounting holes are 37mm then modification is necessary which is what I'm trying to avoid as I don't have access to the required tools.
Are you or anyone else able to confirm this for the engine in question?
Thanks in advance.