Dang, those look fantastic!

Thanks for confirming the brushless motor's power. That is exactly what I want, just more punch out of the turns like a real pancar.

I read that there's some ICS (?) adapter to lift the brushless's rev limiter. Have you done that to yours for open class or bashing? If the motor provides ample power out of the box I will just leave it, but just in case.

So last night my LM's (TS020) rear end broke. Top motor bracket and the damper arm bracket that holds the 2 discs and springs cracked and separated into pieces. I just super glued everything together and it's running fine again, but in 5 days since ownership, both front knuckles broke, then the damper bracket and motor cover. I drive these things hard, but I was not expecting them to be so fragile.

Replacement parts ordered, also a conversion for MM. I decided to run the LP500 body instead of the BRZ after I do the conversion. Both my Sport will run wide MM.. I think the LP500 is MM...(?)

Just to temporarily check to see if I'd like a ball diff on my LM, I put Tamiya AW grease in the diff housing to slow down the action. It does run smoother and feels better coming out of the turns. The grease will start working its way out so I need to clean that out before it starts getting on my track.

Hope to have my MR03EV with TS020 body tomorrow.

I do have an ICS cable and have changed the settings on my MR03, MR02 and F1. I don't use a brushless car, just ran one before. My track is too small for the brushless but, the small track size means we don't really break many parts. You can get other brushless motors from 4200 -12,000kv. A big track is hard on these little cars. Broke quite a few parts on the 1/18th scale carpet track using an Atomic 17mm 35T motor going wide open, pretty much modified pancar.
We don't run gear diffs anymore but, we did some box stock racing in the past so, I'll share my top secret setup, lol. The grease works but as you said it will work its way out and make a mess on the track. The stock springs on the damper from your LM car is the perfect fit for inside the gear diff (if they haven't changed anything since I last had one). The spring will force the outside of the diff against the tiny e clip holding it together and then the wheel nut will push the rim against this same part allowing for adjustment. Or just buy the adjustable gear diff made by PN but honestly, a ball diff is so much better.
The LP500 is a 90mm RM body and as I recall you can't run a top shock without cutting a hole in the body, I'm not sure if a disc damper will fit.
This might help you: http://mini-z-guide.com/
I'm not sure if it's still being updated but, there is still tons of good info.
Edit:It seems to be updated somewhat as they mention the Audi R8 as a current racing body choice and it's not that old of a body.

mikedw- Thanks so much for the info! First off, I cancelled the LP500 body as I have no interest in running RM with no rear damper. I will check out that link to see what bodies actually fit. I may end up going back to the BRZ body if that is a MM.

Second, thanks for the tip on the spring inside the gear diff. I was actually thinking about trying something like that. I will see if I can find a few springs that might fit inside. I did order a MR02- LM ball diff. I hope that is the right one even though my car is a MR03VE with LM setup.

And yes, my cars are going its max speeds on my track and when it catches one of the marker dots too deep there is no telling which way the car will point. It's just the price I will have to pay. I'm going to be ordering more LM rear parts as I know things will get worse when I introduce more speed. Thanks again!

I decided to sandwich a clear damper o-ring with grease inside and outside the o-ring and assembled the factory diff as usual.

I don't know how long this will last, but for now, it works real well, nice weighted feel.
Now I can punch out of turns without under steer. I will keep updating how it holds up.

You're welcome.
Since you're running top speed most of the time, check out the 98mm bodies. There are lots of choices and they'll get you the widest setups outside of LeMans. The BRZ body is 94mm (RM motor mount).
The first LM bodies came on a MR02 chassis. Don't worry about the ball diff, as long as it says for LM, it's just a longer shaft. You can take the parts off and put them on a standard length shaft. Just be aware mixing parts between manufacturers sometimes doesn't work well. The rear end of an 02 or 03 are interchangeable.
I've tried the O ring. The one I tried lost its shape and started to wear little bits in the gears, maybe you'll have better luck.

mikedw - Thanks again!

I found out too after researching that link you posted that the BRZ body is RM so I went with a 599XX. As you said, the 98mm setup (like my 458) has EXCELLENT balance between straight line and corning stability. 599XX is also 98mm MM. Oh and the LM shaft, thanks for that info.

I noticed that the damper mount bracket is different on the LM so I ordered that as well for this conversion to 98mm MM.

I too think the o-ring inside the diff will breakup in time if left as-is. I am thinking about putting a thin washer or shim between the o-ring and the 3 bevel gears next time and put some Green Slime between there to prevent direct friction against the o-ring. This should prevent breakup.

My MR03VE (LM) and KT18 arrived so I will work on that later today. Front aluminum knuckles and ball diff for it expected tomorrow. I have another Orion charger and 800HV AAA's coming to me this week as well. The 800HV provides the punch I want.

Just an update on my MR03VE with the TS020 body. Very nice, it has the torque I wanted and even with the 6teeth it is fairly fast. It is about as fast as the MR03-S with 9teeth but like 3 times the torque. I am very happy.

Top speed compared to my 458 MR03-S, the 458 is faster with its 9teeth vs 6teeth running MR03VE with TS020 body. I expect to receive my LM ball diff soon, so will change gearing near 7-8teeth pinion on my MR03VE whatever that might be that fits using the PN ball diff's 64pitch in stock motor brackets. (My MR03VE did not like the o-ring'ed diff. The stiff diff overwhelmed the front tires going into turns preventing the car to rotate )

Questions for you guys.

1) What is the gear count on the stock gear diff? Is it 43teeth?

2) Rear oil damper for MM 98mm setup. Do they really help sit the rear down? I ask because my track surface has texture and the rear of my 458 on occasion appears as if the rear is hopping coming out of the corners. 95% of the time the PN tires glue it punching out. I put Tamiya AW grease on the stock damper shaft and it helped, but not as AW grease on the shaft + the roll damper discs on my LM setup.

I don't want to spend crazy money on my MiniZ as I am only a casual driver. I want to try to use as much stock parts and a few homemade tweaks.

TIA

Hey guys!

Its been awhile since i posted here but i recently found my old MR02 setup and my old KO radio...does anyone know where I can find a module for my old school KO mars (the orange and black one)?

Thanks in advance for the help!

I'd have to count them but, 43 teeth sounds right. As I recall the original pitch ball diff spur gears came in 41, 43 and 44 so, 43 is probably the stock diff.
I prefer the disc dampers but, an oil top shock is much more adjustable than the stock friction top shock. You can run both if you want. I use silicon oil of different weights on the disc damper.
Not sure if this is happening to you but, the front tires have a tendency to roll over themselves on high speed corners, this will make the rear hop. Tire tape or gluing the front tires on the rims will stop this.

twisted concept, AM or ASF module? Both are hard to find now. I suggest the mini z racer forum, maybe you can get a used one.

Thanks, mikedw. I read it was 44T but I guess I will find out soon enough. I converted my LM's motor position to 7-8teeth last night in prep for the ball-diff coming soon. I ran with 7teeth yesterday on my MR03EV LM. I like it.

The 8teeth provided no motor braking, so I didn't like it on my track. I also figured out using GreenSlime on the o-ring to stiffen the gear diff was the problem. Like AW grease, it's too thick. The cheap Tamiya grease seems to work the best. I opened up both diffs last night and the clear o-rings show no sign of wear.

Thanks on the roll damper and damper insight. The front tires seem to be on the wheel okay, I think I need to put a thin sleeve inside the friction damper to slow it down some more with the AW grease.

UPDATE:

On my MR03VE (LM) I got the PN LM ball diff using 9t and 10t (64pitch) to fit the factory motor mount using the factory 7-8t pinion setting. For now, I am running the PN's 10t, as I have the speed I want running brushless. Lost motor drag braking though as it is between 8t and 9t on factory gearing, but I guess I will just need to change my driving style. The car runs PN RSF25 front/Factory rear tire setup. There is a bit too much twist in the chassis so I will upgrade to the Kyosho roll damper setup and carbon fiber plate. Besides this, I am real happy with my car now.

On my MR03-S (MM 98mm), I am happy the way the car drives. Basically a stock setup using 9t pinion, bearings, PN RSF25/RSR06 tires, clear Tamiya o-ring with a light dab of grease inside the factory diff, 800HV Orion batteries and the AM-Pro charger. Thing is super fun to drive!! For me, no other parts needed. I am doing a duplicate later today for my other MR03-S chassis running the 599XX body.

To get the best experience with Mini-Z, my personal recommendation is always do ball bearings and damping first, before you do any motor upgrade.
Front springs, t-plate and DPS is minimum.
Then top damper and if you run lower T than 50, maybe consider side dampers and different t-plate.
Then tires of course.
So the ball diff, since I believe it is easier to setup than any gear diff.
The transmitter is way more effective to upgrade than just getting a faster motor.
Then you actually learn to drive your car.
When upgrading your motor, then also consider a new motor mount. So that the motor gets more cooling.

Personally I always true my front tires.
I run F1 (50T), LeMans (50T), Stock (70T) and Modified (39T).
I also have Porsche Cup car, a 964 that is narrow and with a RM motor mount. Both stock and Porsche uses 12T / 53T 64-pitch diff.
I trying to make a Truck also and I have AWD MA-020VE and the Buggy.

I also uses ICS on all my cars and my transmitter is a KoPropo EX-10 EURUS with the RF-902SM.
I run only on RCP, but on both sides.

To really have fun, I recommend racing with others and with a timing system. Then you can learn from others and you can learn others. You can have fun and let your work worries be left outside the arena.... hihi

Those are some nice looking Z cars! Love that truck.

NoBrainer- Impressive line up you got there! I too like that truck!!!

For me, MiniZ are cars I play with while I'm waiting for my M-chassis Lipo's to charge. But I am happy how nice the AutoScale bodies look. Once I get the setup complete, I am going to put the nice bodies on and just drive casually and carefully not to scratch the bodies.

Btw, I used clear decal and a heatgun to clear-bra the front bumper and splitters on my 599XX. I will do the same on my other fresh bodies before I take it out on my course.

I installed the Kyosho roll damper set and the carbon fiber plate (medium torsion) on my LM. NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE! I am so happy. The rear is planted as expected.

These brushless motors are so powerful on the MR03VE, the rear requires these parts for me. This is a must have.
I am running a 10t pinion with 53t spur (64 pitch) 5.300 ratio on the factory motor mount.