Yep, your correct. Another local racer comfirmed. Thanks

Does any one no if the tekin pro4 4600kv 540 can motor would push this sct around ok or should i get the pro4 hd 4300kv 550 can. If someone has tried both please weigh in your advise or anyones for that matter would be greatly appreciated. TIA

The 4600 is more than enough and much easier on drive train and batteries. My son runs the Hobbywing 4000 in his turned down just a titch (he's a pretty good driver) and I was running the Viper 4500 in mine when I was still in the class. The Viper was a beast. For many moons, I ran the Tekin Pro4 4000 with good success. The 4300 HD is not ROAR legal if that matters to you.

I posted in the EB48SL thread but as I'm building 410.3 too thought I would put it here as well being both threads seem to get different visitors,

In the process of putting my EB48sl and 410.3 together at the same time, these are my first Tekno builds other then helping buddies on occasion. Anyway all 4 front and rear diffs seem to want to go in the housings with only one shim on the gear side of housing for best mesh, both on gear side and it is too tight and one on each side doesn't feel right either, once in the housing and tightened up they feel pretty smooth for being new so I'm guessing I'm OK? Both center diffs feel crunchy when fully tight, back off screws just a touch (like half turn) and they both free up......normal? Also noticed when the droop screws are put in the arms all the way that it tightened up the hinge pins on the arms and had to ream the arms some more to get free movement. Just looking for some clarification that I'm going about everything in the right way being my first Tekno's. The kits seem quality and I'm happy so far just trying to learn them. Thanks

Everything you just posted is pretty normal for the Tekno kits.I have a 410,410.3,and eb48sl and on my rear and front diffs on my 410 I had to put one shim on each side.On my 410.3 and eb48sl both shims went right in on the gear side with no problems.

This weekend I noticed that when I'm at a hard steering point my wheels are rubbing so I had to back off my EPA to make sure it didn't. Everything appears tight but I lost a TON of steering since I had to make such drastic changes to my EPA. What can I look for that may fix this?

What wheels? Rubbing the arms? Pics

Preferred the 540 over the 550. You get better runtime, more top end, and don't ruin your batteries.

Yeah rubbing the arms. I can't post pics right now but I will when I can

Set your steering stops so they barely miss rubbing the arms.

Do you guys think the new truck is that much better than the old one?

I've got two races in the new .3 truck. truck is great in box stock form. took the tq and win at our local Friday racing track. went to a bigger event on a bigger 1/8 track and truck was just as good. was running in 2nd place when my hw sct pro went into thermal. its done this a few times now. esc is not hot. hottest temp I could find on it was 103. anyone else have this issue? I'm running the 4700 motor with a 16t pinion. motor is coming off at 140 max. usually only 130F. fan is working on the esc too. really bummed about the esc. I thought it was made for applications like this? oh, and battery is a brand new smc 7200.

the first version truck was good box stock. this one is better box stock. my .02

are you sure its thermaling?

It is not thermalling, the LVC is coming on tok soon. The latest software fixes that. It also makes it so when LVC does hit, you can still crawl out of the way instead of a sitting duck.

was a slow blinking green led. I believe that is thermal.