Pretty sure my Neo Scorcher was $100 shipped from overseas. Well worth it in my opinion (if you like Tamiyas.) $100 could probably be better spent on a Chinese brand basher, but like I said, if you're a fan, it's a fantastic car.

Still debating whether I want to get a TT02, TC4, or a Spec-R S2. Hayling, you said the TT02 does alright on dirt/clay? I've got a couple baseball fields around me that I'd love to rally through.

The variety I'm taking about is the "B" version, which is for buggy. The thing seems practically designed for baseball fields. If you want to rally through those without an "off road" car, then the tt-02 rally, or better yet, an XV-01 is probably what you are looking for. The XV-01 is one of the best chassis kits they have, and are a good value - even the non-pro version. If you want something more controllable than the TT-02, then that's the ticket, because for rough surfaces, touring cars just aren't up to the task (besides that and a few other ones more aimed at higher ride heights). It's more durable too.

Hey thanks. The XV-01 is definitely out of my price range. Is there a separate "rally" version of the TT02 chassis?

I started with the rally version of the tt02. What it is consists of the Lancia Delta Integrale Body, it allows you to flip the hubs for increased right height, 19t pinion and rally block tires.

Getting this allows you to easily convert to on road later if you prefer but getting the Buggy version would be better if you had an "offroad" track. I took my rally car on an off road track and it loved nose diving off jumps (going off the gas, and then full punch helped jumping - nearly landed a triple!) and it stayed undamaged for possibly 10-15cartwheels amazingly..

I don't have an actual off road track. Just a bunch of places to bash around. Including asphalt parking lots, which is why I also want the touring aspect. Not really planning on hitting any big jumps.

Is the rally version the TT02R?

If you get a rally, with the body, I think they might all be base kits at the moment. The best TT-02 for on-road on a budget is the type D version, but you will need a body and some different non-drift tires. For rally, Tamiya's own rally block tires are great. You'd just flip over the hubs and follow the rally instructions when building the D from any rally kit with a standard wheelbase (or short, if you have a body that fits.) They can be downloaded online.

For overall fun, on road and off - the buggy version is hard to beat, but have not tried configuring a rally setup on the standard on-road chassis. It turns great! Maybe even better than my associated B5 at high speed radius, but it's 2wd.

The folks who get into the B platform seem to emphasize getting rid of the steering slop, but I've found that unless you are keeping it on asphalt, it won't be the easiest thing to keep in a straight line anyways.

For the record, I have an on-road TT-02D, with over $200 in hop ups. The B is just more fun for everyday bashing, but it certainly doesn't look like a car, which may be a deal breaker.

They make an adjustable turnbuckle kit that replaces all the links, that did not cost very much. Wish the TT-02 touring car had that!! I paid just as much for a pair of heavy rear camber adjuster from 3racing or the like.

I finally got around to building my TT02. My one and only upgrade? Bearings! I just noticed that steering angles are limited by stoppers on the knuckles and the upper links. Did anybody try trimming/cutting them to get more angle?

Front dogbones will probably bind or come out with increased steering angle. If the dogbones won't stay in you could try something like this:
.

Noted sir. Assuming that I have DCJs installed, will trimming the stoppers increase steering angle? Has anybody tried this?

Has anyone here purchased a TT02D w/body? Going by Tamiya website it comes with the TBLE-02S ESC but on online stores they say it doesn't come with a ESC.

So I just finished building my all stock TT02 expect for bearings.

I noticed that it understeers when turning right. I checked for binding, steering endpoints are equal and everything seems to check out all right.

Is there something that I missed? Can anybody kindly help me please?

How about posting a picture of the assembled chassis? A picture of the link between servo horn and steering bridge will confirm or clear one possible problem

Here is the picture sir.

I installed adjustable turnbuckles on the said link from the very start in anticipation for fine tuning.

Still it has that oversteering when turning right.

Check your left rear damper, ensure that the piston slides without binding. Drain the oil if you have to. Try switching the rear dampers and see if the oversteering transfers to the left side.

Also, the servo horn and the servo link must be at 90deg to each other otherwise you will have uneven throw. It can be corrected at the radio but I prefer correcting the problem at the root