I replaced the idler gear inside the diffbox with a metal gear, because the original gear was missing one tooth. Out of the box.

Make sure the screw that holds the outside gear on the shaft is securely thread locked. On mine the guys who built the car in the factory (the car comes 80% assembled) didnīt use any thread lock at all. The gear got loose and therfore the gap between gear and motor plate widened considerably. This lead to binding between gear cover, (outer) idler gear and spur gear, which damaged both gears.

The gap between motor plate and gear should be minimal, almost non-existent. I thread-locked the screw and made sure the gear is in the correct position, and didnīt have any issues since.

Yes I tried threadlocking the screws for the 20T and 25T and switched to metal versions of these as well.. I may considering use "Steel" version of the shaft as well...

Love the car... HATE these things from happening all the time!

how do you post with pictures? I kept getting:
"You are only allowed to post URLs to other sites after you have made a certain number of posts. You have not reached that limit yet."

Here is the pics of the Diff....

Ouch.

I use a 23 turns brushed motor, perhaps a brushless 13 turns motor ist just a little to much. Try the metal gears next, if I ever chew the outer gear on my car, Iīll use a metal gear there too.

Edit: I just noticed you are already using the steel gears. You may need a steel diff, too....

They made a steel diff??!?
If so what is the part number?

Also if 13T is too much for it... would a Brushless 17.5 T be ok?
what is everyone running?
1) Drachenschorsch @ 23T Brushed
2) Otaku521 @ 17T Brushless - (Gear Chewed)

Also got an advise from another forum to use countersink/flat screws instead of button screws - Dont know if this works or not... appears that the motor blades plates are not stable enough even if we used thicker ones (like the optional hop up alum part) ... Maybe a design issue?

(photo from another forum's post)

Sorry, they donīt make one. But it seemed to me you may need one nevertheless.

agreed! If they do make it that is!!

Thanks!

Interesting that on the other forum... they guy told me to use countersink/flat screws... he said he is running 8.5T and changing to 13.5T with Turbo...

I wondered if it is safe to do that?

Only one way to find out. 😄

But I don't think a 8,5 turns motor makes any sense in a m-chassis sized car.

I am also running grid indoor on med to high grip carpet with the upgraded motor plates and steel shafts and steel counter gear but still stripping teeth on diff when I use steel counter gear I am going to try a ball diff

What motor/ESC you are running? pls do tell us ball diff results...
Will it be higher maintenance? That is the impression that I got about ball diffs...

I am running a Saturn 20t brushed motor with a fushion podium esc I am trying ball diff as teeth look a bit stronger maintance wise never had a problem with them in tamiya m03 and m05 preferred them over gear diffs

What the heck, ABC...

Are these chassis supposed to be powered no more than a silver can/21.5 brushless?