This pretty much goes for any of the Tamiya cars using the F104 narrow front end...

* Totally adjustable caster and camber - with the stock top arms, changing camber adjusts caster as well, and vice versa. Now you have control of these adjustments independently.

* You can also now use the different camber adjustments on the camber plate that comes with the car to change the top arm length, for different camber gain characteristics. Ex. - using the 2* hole would make a longer upper arm for less camber gain. The 1* hole would make a shorter arm, increasing gain.

* Less slop, and less prone to damage in accidents. The holes in the upper arms have been known to break or distort in accidents.

Sorry to revive an old thread.
Purchased a used TRF102 about a year ago to run with our local club's indoor asphalt course.
This is maybe the 3rd or 4th time I've run it due to COVID, etc.
Also broke the t-plate for the 2nd time, this time just barely brushing the wall/pipe.
While I know I need to stay off the pipe, is there another options for the t-plate strength?
I see Berserk has a carbon fiber piece, but at $20 shipping for a $12 part it could be my last choice.
Any other options out there?
Thanks in advance!

I have the Bezerk one (shipping from Oz is much cheaper to NZ) and its been fantastic. I haven't broken many t plates in 4 years despite starting out with this car and not knowing how to drive. The Bezerk plate has survived some big crashes (ones that haven't been my fault, honest), last meet I was on the grid and got collected by another car at full speed at the end of the straight (they hadn't heard the call to grid up). Smashed the rear wing but the t plate is still fine.

Fibrelyte will be able to make something too if you're in the UK but you'd need to supply the drawing

Looking for this setup thanks!

My trf102 has a lot of droop and sag in the rear pod after the hinge. I've tightened the end of the shock shaft ball stud mount as much as I can. How do I eliminate some of the sag? Do I need to put rubber o rings inside below the piston? Tia
d

A couple things to check before you mess with a perfectly good shock travel.....
Move the ball end to the forward hole in the top deck.


If you've already done that, make sure the short shock end #5 from the Vparts is indeed the one installed on the shock.

yes, limiters inside the shock is normal set so that you can can tighten or loosen the shock end to adjust it as needed. You want to be able to adjust from .5 to 3mm droop. With the correct limiter spacing you would use the long shock end with the forward mounting hole or the short end with the rear. Forward is better for higher grip tracks while back is better for lower grip tracks.

Ty both! I will do these things. Look at this. Ty ty
d

I might have a use one i don't use, i will let you know.