Are there any videos on youtube of your track so we can give better advice? 90% run MM at our track but it's big and "flowing"...

Here's my MM with a square pack sideways but it will work with a stick pack. I considering the track med/high bite. I typically run SS on all corners. If I want less steering, i put clays up front.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4SfPIQG1U0

When I first got the truck I ran mm with a stick pack. I switched over to side way saddles and the truck was better for me. I have been using the saddle packs ever since. This is on a med bite indoor track.

I am on gold coast australia and plan to run at a indoor clay track where people of reported in this thread problems of stripped idle gears.

I am in process of switching to mid motor and would like to use your experience to help prevent myself and other people from having this problem.

I did a quick pic with mobile phone and messy text to try to show a picture of what i am seeing as the issue.

I am working with what i have
Page 23 of the manual states to use 2 x 0.5 shim/spacer (i didnt have them as i purchased 2nd hand roller with new mid motor kit-unused)

I did have
1 x UM726 that has a 1mm shim + 0.5mm shim

With 0.5 shim there was a gap on top screws mounting into Red Exotek rear block.
With 1mm shim it seems perfect, to show i can slide a very slim bit of paper under rear of gear box (less than 0.5mm)

Thoughts?

Edit uploaded better quality pic no gearbox

This is after first time putting 2 batteries through the car on a track.

I broke a ball stud (see pics) in a V2 0" Hub

When i went to check other side later that day i found the other side was bent.
Both sides had significant wear, it may be just from setup.

The rear had quite a lot of toe in.
I couldn't find anyone else in thread comment about it.

Anyone else come accross this?

So are you thinking that with the other shim that when you tighten the screws it binds the gear box?

Someone else in the thread had mentioned a simular feeling tightening up the bottom screws I believe.

I run the kyosho aluminum idler gear in my mid-motor gear box and have not had a problem. Just one aluminum gear and one plastic idler gear together. Because kyosho states that plastic/metal/plastic/metal gear combo is best to free up the transmission. From my experience it works quite well! I have run this in my RB6 also and I have never stripped an idler gear in either the SC6 or the RB6 in midship running 17.5.

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/kyosho-...umw718/p273875
I do not know if you have tried this upgraded idler gear yet?

I think this is the case, the the reversal of the gear box, the extra length of the extra gear, add 0.5mm here or there plus a fraction of movement could be the problem.

Be nice to be able to document the info so in the future it will save people pull down repairs and frustration.

I have waiting to go in

New plastic idle gear
UMW718 Aluminium Idle gear for Metal, plastic, metal ect
SCH1304 Schelle Slipper kit plus top shaft
MIP puck system
Schelle bearings Mid Motor
Waiting on b-fast diff parts to finalize everything

I just want to get it right the first time.

1mm shim / spacer looks right for me, the manual says 2 x 0.5mm shim but i only have
1 x 0.5mm
1 x 1mm

0.5mm shim is not enough and i can see it causing a problem.

Here is a short video, the layout is a little different but not much.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDFvWJwYLQY

We also run SS tires.

I have 6 idlers to choose from to be put in. Just haven't decided on the combo. I have 2 metal and 3 black and 1 white plastic .

[QUOTE=Dmitri Tech;13942033]This is after first time putting 2 batteries through the car on a track.

I broke a ball stud (see pics) in a V2 0" Hub

When i went to check other side later that day i found the other side was bent.
Both sides had significant wear, it may be just from setup.

The rear had quite a lot of toe in.
I couldn't find anyone else in thread comment about it.

Anyone else come accross this?[/QUOTE

Were you running any spacers between the ballstud and hub? If so what material? Aluminum or plastic? In the case you were running plastic try and use aluminum, the plastic spacers will flex under heavy loads causing the ballstuds to bend/ snap.

So it looks like just about everyone runs this truck mid motor. The track I race on is really low grip, all of the fastest trucks run rear motor, the tires of choice are usually a square fuzzie, gridiron, impact or something along those lines. So my question is how much rear traction does the mid motor set up have and should I just build it rear motor like I was planning on?

Very common problem.. Upgrade all 4 rear ball studs. The best I have found are the new Associated heavy duty for the B5M & T5M. You will also have to get their ball cups. The cups may be tight and if they are just pinch them with pliers until they free up.

That track has alot of 180 turns and "drag racing". If it was me, I would try rear motor for mod class and mid motor for stock.

So you are the reason they are on back order J/K