Ride Height is going to be measured from the chassis bottom to the tabletop. This will generally look like 23mm front, 27mm rear. You can try eyeballing it with a ruler or cut a straight piece of tubing to the desired dimension and hold it under the car with your needle nose pliers. Measure at the flat area not where the antidive is built in (front angle).

Rebound/Droop is the distance between screws holding your shocks in place. It will look something like 103mm front, 127mm rear. The screws to change this dimension are called Droop Screws and are located on the bottom of each arm toward the inside, resting on the chassis. They are not setting droop, but are setting the rebound dimension. Since you do not want your shock bottoming out on every jump you want to set this screw to your max shock travel minus a little touch so that it never bottoms out. Now this dimension, that gives you Renos "Maxi Rebound", will be the longest you can get without hitting the shock bottom.

Hope that clears it up for ya,

I have 2 f/r and one centre, Fioroni Tractive diffs for MBX6 and MBX6R
Link to fioroni site.............
http://www.fioroni.com/inglese/prodo...cerca=tractive
with extra side plate things, with different degrees of angle for sale, hardly used at all, been sitting in box for 5 years.
if anyone wants them,
$120 US delivered anywhere, for all of it

PM if interested

Looking for M2C Lipo hold down. No longer on their site and out of stock. Please PM, thanks
Kris

Anyone knows if it's possible to convert the MBX6 threaded inner hinge pins to MBX7 captured hinge pins and suspension inserts?

the 6 and 7 diff housings are the same so that means the 7 captured arm holder will bolt straight on but there are a few issues to be addressed, firstly the 7 arm holder on the rear are wider so you will need the 7 rear arms, hubs and shafts cause they are 3.5mm on the 7, not sure if the droop screws will be touching the chassis being wider.

Up front, a mate did the 7 holders on his 6T, he had to cut the chassis cause the rear holder has edges that locate over the edge of the 7 chassis, or you could trim those edges off.

In the end you might be better off spending a few hundred on a good used 7.

Thanks for the reply.
Your right, once I start to change the plates it would be more reasonable to get an used 7. Still if someone knows if at least the closed inserts are cross compatible it would help tremendously.

We looked at doing that but the inserts on the 6 push in from the outside and the 7 push in from the inside so the recesses are on different sides, even the holes are different sizes so you can't just turn the front 2 holder around, I always liked the 6 system but the 7 is so much better in ease of diff removal and don't flog out (get slop) like the 6 inserts do.

Oh well I will stay with the threaded hinge pins, thanks anyway

Don't give up already. I'm almost positive that the blocks from the mbx7t are the same width as the mbx6 blocks so you can still use the 6 arms.

Does anybody know if the 7 body will fit on the 6 ok ?

You might be very right, the plates change a little visually but at least seem very close. Thanks!

Yes it does, at least the MBX7 body on the MBX6 (mine isn't a R). Cut the tail of the 7 body a little more past the rear body post and that's it.

I have done the change over to captured hinge pins from the 7T on my MBX6R and they are Identical. Now just that much easier to work on. The front B block dosent have the 2 3mm screws that hold it to the chassis. I use the M2C B-block instead of the mugen. I also used the same setup on one of my X7's to run the X6 rear arms captured as well. (dollarhobbyz) sells everything you need in one part #.

Thanks 30tooth

No problem, also didn't have to enlarge the hole for the engine but had to drill a hole for the antenna before painting because the 7 radiotray has the antenna in another place. I recommend velcro to attach the body.

Hey guys..im new to offroad and i got a used mbx6r..im planning to use a novarossi p5xlt engine but i dont know what manifold should i get...the novarossi 41030 long compact manifold or the novarossi 41029 short compact manifold?..both are mugen polished...thanks guys.